Repairing a physically damaged 290X

ATMINSIDE · May 9, 2014

Fever said:
As far as I can tell, the only markings would be "C301" and "C302" silk screened on the PCB in white beside them. Probably not what you're talking about.

No, he means on the actual component.
The C301 and C302 most likely refers to capacitor #301 and #302 on that PCB.

Its an easy way for the company to say "this component is missing, C301" and then they can pull the component information quickly.

Fever · May 9, 2014

ATMINSIDE said:
No, he means on the actual component.
The C301 and C302 most likely refers to capacitor #301 and #302 on that PCB.

Its an easy way for the company to say "this component is missing, C301" and then they can pull the component information quickly.

Yeah, that's what I figured they meant. There's nothing printed on them that's visible to the naked eye as far as I can tell.

ATMINSIDE · May 9, 2014

Fever said:
Yeah, that's what I figured they meant. There's nothing printed on them that's visible to the naked eye as far as I can tell.

Probably either unmarked due to size, or its marked on the bottom :-/

Fever · May 9, 2014

ATMINSIDE said:
Probably either unmarked due to size, or its marked on the bottom

With my luck, they're marked on the bottom.

Bobnova · May 9, 2014

Yeah once you get down to that package size (0402) the parts are not marked at all. To get their values they have to be removed and tested, o
It sucks.

Waza · May 9, 2014

Maybe the manufacturer is nice enough to send you part of the circuit diagram or tell you what they are.
Measuring soldered components isn't exactly a reliable way to tell what they are unless you know the layout. But I guess as long as the broken card doesn't give readout with the components removed you're good trusting the measurements.

Silver_Pharaoh · May 9, 2014

Fever said:
With my luck, they're marked on the bottom.

Bobnova said:
Yeah once you get down to that package size (0402) the parts are not marked at all. To get their values they have to be removed and tested, o
It sucks.

I'll take the chances and post here.

Could one simply unsolder the resistors from the working 290x, measure the ohms, then resolder them back?

Bobnova · May 9, 2014

Yup, that's exactly what needs to be done to know exactly what they are.
It's a risky business, as it's not hard to lose one while de-soldering. Then you're really in trouble.

moho · May 9, 2014

Silver_Pharaoh said:
I'll take the chances and post here.

Could one simply unsolder the resistors from the working 290x, measure the ohms, then resolder them back?

yeah it can be done.

Bobnova said:
Yup, that's exactly what needs to be done to know exactly what they are.
It's a risky business, as it's not hard to lose one while de-soldering. Then you're really in trouble.

ive had some get lost in the solder stuck to the iron, only to be melted into oblivion hahaha

anyway, looks like it wouldnt be too hard to fix

Silver_Pharaoh · May 9, 2014

Bobnova said:
Yup, that's exactly what needs to be done to know exactly what they are.
It's a risky business, as it's not hard to lose one while de-soldering. Then you're really in trouble.

moho said:
yeah it can be done.

ive had some get lost in the solder stuck to the iron, only to be melted into oblivion hahaha

anyway, looks like it wouldnt be too hard to fix

Risky yes...

Worth it?
Probably.

Bobnova · May 9, 2014

Yeah it's one of those interesting questions.
One working card and one dead card, do you take the chance of two dead cards to get two working cards?

Mr.Scott · May 9, 2014

Bobnova said:
Yeah it's one of those interesting questions.
One working card and one dead card, do you take the chance of two dead cards to get two working cards?

Depends on the card. In this case, IMO, no. You e-bay it for whatever you can get and let the next guy worry about it.

Waza · May 9, 2014

If you can get your hands on heat gun you can pinch the resistor with pliers and heat the board until it comes loose. Just be careful you don't fry the board.
If you have to do it by soldering it becomes much more difficult and patience is a virtue.
Manufacturers often use high temp solder and it is lead free so it can be real b*tch to work with.
Grab a roll of leaded tin and add some of it to the contact when you de solder. Makes it a lot easier.

Fever · May 9, 2014

So I'd have to desolder each piece that's missing on the broken card from a working card in order to identify them. Not sure I'm willing to risk that, don't trust my (lack of) skills enough with an iron.

I'll try emailing AMD and any company that sells ref. 290X to try and get the specs on them.

Bobnova · May 9, 2014

Odds are they're ignore you or tell you to take a hike, but it's definitely worth a try.

Fever · May 10, 2014

That's what I'm expecting, to be honest.

Let's say I do get all the info we need, would you be willing to fix the card for me? I'd obviously pay all associated costs plus whatever you'd like for your time.

Bobnova · May 10, 2014

If we can find all the specs I'm happy to attempt it.
Because the pads got torn off I can't guarantee I can fix it, but I'd certainly try.

Repairing a physically damaged 290X

ATMINSIDE

Sim Racing Aficionado Co-Owner

Fever

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ATMINSIDE

Sim Racing Aficionado Co-Owner

Fever

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Bobnova

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Waza

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Silver_Pharaoh

Likes the big ones n00b Member

Bobnova

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moho

I wanna title tooo !

Silver_Pharaoh

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Bobnova

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Mr.Scott

Beamed Me Up!

Waza

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Fever

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Bobnova

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Fever

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Bobnova

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