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PROJECT LOG Project Unity

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Thanks for all the tips. Glad I started the log. :p

Two main questions:
1) Your diagram for how you would do the top, do you have the legs coming up past the bottom to support the inside edge of the joints for the top / have some kind of support there?
2) Is the glue joint just as simple as the pieces with glue in between, clamped for a while? I like the look and idea of the contrast strip.

1) There are dozens of ways to do this. You can run it on the outside, the inside, to the bottom, to the top, stopping short... etc etc. The way your drawing is, you would run it inside the desk, with the bottom being shelved in instead of a "box". Really doesn't matter though.

2) this is a can of worms. I'll help you more with this when the time comes for it :p
 
1) Currently a 4x4 is supporting each corner of the bottom, then a 1x2 is holding the top. I'm thinking that wouldn't give the joints for the top corners enough support.

2) Alrighty, can't wait.
 
Just a quick update. Got the control panel mounted back into the now cleaner cut mounting hole.

Before:
Control_Hole_compressed.jpg

Control_Close.jpg


And after:
Cut.jpg

Cut_Mounted.jpg

Looks much cleaner, a good thing.


Slight side note:
I think this is the most Malwarebytes hits I've seen so far. The next two scans each had around 1900.
MWB.jpg
 
do you have a router? I'll show you a trick to get straight lines...

and practice good habits now, predrill your holes. and where did you get those knobs? Those are cool as hell
 
Yes, used it to clean up the cuts. The board I've been using for a straight edge has the slightest start of a warp upward at the center so the guide on the tools likes to slide under it, been meaning to grab a different board.

Yeah, once I tried predrilling the holes for it made it much easier and effective.

Got the knobs from Sparkfun. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10002
 
Had this done a few days ago, but wasn't quite happy enough with how it turned out to post the update.

Unfortunately, there isn't really enough left of the psu bracket from the Scout to securely mount it to the desk.
PSU Bracket Old.jpg

Blank piece of metal that was laying around
PSU Bracket Blank.jpg

Cut to size
PSU Bracket Blank Cut.jpg

This is where the the first attempt didn't turn out so well.
PSU Bracket hole.jpg

I was using tin snips to cut out the hole, but was having issues both cutting a straight line and trimming it the cut.
PSU Bracket Mounted.jpg

Been wanting to pick up a dremel for a while, and finally did. Got a Black & Decker RTX-B. Already coming in very handy.
Dremel.jpg

Box of attachments I got as well to go with it
Attachment Box.jpg
Attachments.jpg

Second attempt, this time using the dremel, turned out better but still may do it again as the cutout it just slightly too wide.
PSU Bracket New Mounted.jpg

Painted and secured
PSU Painted.jpg
PSU Mounted Rear.jpg


Also secured the motherboard tray. May find a better way to mount the tray and PSU other than the bolts, but might be a nice contrast. Planning/hoping for a dark color theme with silver accent pieces.
Tray Front.jpg
PSU Mobo.jpg

Should probably fill in the gap above the motherboard I/O plate.
Mobo Back.jpg

Having an issue with the standoffs not wanting to go into the tray, as if the holes are too small. Is there a different sized standoff I need, or just drill the holes slightly larger? :shrug:
Mobo Standoff.jpg

Desk.jpg
Looking at the whole desk, should have plenty of room for activities with all this space.

Working on a possible hard drive enclosure concept, should have pictures (from sketchup) today or tomorrow.
 
:thup: interesting
i would have started off (and probably finished) with MDF thou, even if it is only a prototype/proof of concept.

Since OSB is a big pain in the * to do things like this with... too chippy, doesn't hold screws very well, mitre joints are just a fantasy and.. its very difficult to get a halfway decent looking finish.

OSB belongs under floors or under roofs :)

But as a prototype it'll do.. when done, start over again with MDF & proper hardwood (and veneer) :)

And using tricks like hollow legs and such so you don't end up with a 200 lbs desk :)

.
 
Where we're going, we don't need cables

Slowly been making progress on a couple different sections, but it's been too hot to make working in an unairconditioned shop much fun.

In my first post I mentioned the possibility of a built in docking station. I decided that figuring out the proper inset and angle would be tricky and a pain (because I obviously never made anything more complicated than it needed to be :chair:) so won't be integrating that in. But never fear, I picked up something better.


1Wireless Pack.jpg

Very slim little piece of hardware that sticks to the back of the phone under the back with two metal contacts. That combined with bluetooth will make a pretty neat wireless solution for the phone.
1Wireless PackBack.jpg
1Wireless PackFront.jpg

It does add a little thickness, but not enough to interfere with putting the back or case on.

And a charging station to go with it
1Wireless Charger.jpg
1Wireless Charger2.jpg
Nice and thin, should be easy enough to hide in the underside of the desktop.

Tried the charger out a bit prior to mounting it to make sure it would in fact work as advertised. Doesn't charge as fast as plugged, but still at a decent rate. The one downside I've discovered so far is the phone can get rather hot during charging.

1Mounted.jpg
Easy enough to mount. Routed out a rough circle with a bit extra for the cable. Stapled a strap over across it to hold it in place and flipped the top back over to test.

Unfortunately, I use my camera for pictures so I can't get a picture of it in use so the case will stand in for it.
1Blank.jpg
1Charging.jpg

Little bit of a sweet spot when placing it, but just in a couple times of picking up and placing down the phone I was getting more consistent with getting it.


Going to use (to start off at least) a pair of pc speakers I have around for the desk.
2Speaker Front.jpg
2Speaker Back.jpg

Removed six screws and the back came right off
2Speaker BackRemoved.jpg

Removed the speakers from the front panel
2Speakers.jpg

Poor finger placement during removal led to this on of the speakers. Tested it and it still works just fine just looks bad. Is there a way to fix it or am I SOL with this?
2Speakers Pressed.jpg

Makeshift planing using table saw.
2Board.jpg
Trimmed a small amount off the sides to get a straighter edge and clean it up
2Board Side.jpg
2Board Top.jpg


Ignore the circles. Drew them on from a previous version but marked the lines to use instead
2Block Blank.jpg

2Pilot Holes.jpg
Pilot holes drilled. :thup:

2Block Cut.jpg

The speakers are just under 2" wide, which meant a 2" hole saw was too big and a 1 3/4" was just too small. Since I opted for the 1 3/4" rather than the 2", the speakers don't fit quite right.
2Speaker Initial.jpg

Took the dremel and expanded the holes a bit
2Hole Trimmed.jpg

Haven't mounted them yet. Deciding between aligning them with the desk or angling them inwards. Really leaning towards angling them, as that's how I would prefer to have computer speakers. Let me know what you think.

Close, angled then straight
2Close Angled.jpg
2Close Straight.jpg

Above the control panel, angled then straight
2Control Angled.jpg
2Control Straight.jpg

Far, angled then straight
2Far Angled.jpg
2Far Straight.jpg


Wiring the speakers to a connecting block that is connected to the controls and power for the speakers. So if in the future it becomes necessary to replace the speakers I can do so without having to remove more wiring.

They come blue, painted black
2Connector Painted.jpg

The wires to the controls attached.
2Connector Attached.jpg



The UPS guy is getting to know me way too well these days.

First up is a coupler to attach a motor to threaded rod.
3Coupler.jpg
3Coupler Mounted.jpg

Once I finalize the orientation and location of the speakers, two motors will be mounted below the speakers with the threaded rod going to the speaker block. After all, who wants to have speakers on their desk all the time? ;)

Mounts for the motors, surprisingly thick metal.
3Bracket.jpg

Got a couple analog thermometers. These will go at the intakes and exhaust to measure ambient, temperature through rads, and help with calculating a dT when eventually the desk is water cooled.
3Thermo.jpg

Got a small screen for monitoring data. This will be hooked up to an Arduino to readout temperatures, fan speed, dT, and whatever else I find useful. Just have to figure out where to mount it.
3Screen.jpg
3Screen Back.jpg

Test showing all characters
3Demo.jpg

Connected a thermometer and the screen to the arduino to get a temperature reading.
3Thermo Test.jpg


What I'm considering for the hard drive bays
Front_Solo.jpg
Two bays each holding 3x3.5" drives with red illuminated acrylic. Possibly some kind of light up stencil on the front of the bays.
Desk.jpg
Front_Desk1.jpg



It's amazing how fast spiders work. Already have cobwebs
4Cobwebs.jpg
 
Awesome idea with the wireless!

A light bit of suction should pop the center of the speaker back out.
 
Awesome idea with the wireless!

A light bit of suction should pop the center of the speaker back out.

Yeah, what ATM said.

This may sound weird, but I have similar speakers of the same brand, and my son poked one while I was moving. I just put it up to my mouth and sucked a little bit and it popped right back out.
 
Yeah, what ATM said.

This may sound weird, but I have similar speakers of the same brand, and my son poked one while I was moving. I just put it up to my mouth and sucked a little bit and it popped right back out.
Oh good. Was planning on trying that method. :p
 
Yeah, you should be able to do it just by using your hand to seal to your mouth.
 
The suction was a no go unfortunately. Once I get the speakers wired up, but before final mounting I'll try cranking the volume. Oh darn, what a shame, having to blast some tunes. :p
 
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