• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Spray Painting Case Panel Tips

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
I've only used Dupont (now AXALTA) ChromaBase/ChromaClear, and Dupont's Nason products, and a few PPG products. Looks like my resto shop is going to be using mostly PPG. I'll probably still try to get paint from the body shop's Dupont supplier though. :rolleyes: It's hard to get used to another paint brand when you've become accustomed to all the ins and outs of a good, reliable paint product.
 
Well its simple enough, I haven't used it myself, but I'd trust a 2k paint to last forever where a 5$ rattle can might be iffy.

Certainly not gonna suggest a full rig for something like this. Maybe a local car repair shop can squeeze it in for a few bucks, I know a few guys that do that.
 
Haha ok you guys are starting to sound like this thing has to survive a war zone. It's just going to be sitting next to my desk out of direct sunlight.

Lets clarify some things

1) is your side panel aluminum, steel, or plastic?

2) if aluminum or steel, is it powder coated?

3) are you doing a base color, painting, then stencil over the base color and applying a different color?



Reasons ->

1) prepping plastic is much different than metal

2) if its powder coated or anodized, wont matter what paint you use. if its painted, you need to make sure its not an enamel. (a drop of paint on a q tip will let you know real fast)

3) process based on your color selections. If you;'re trying to put white stencils over a black base.... you may have issues. Other ways to do this.

1) Steel

2) Not sure how to tell between powder coating and paint :-/

3)No, I wasn't planning on doing a base color - just wanted to add a design.
 
It's not that is gonna survive a war zone, better paints frankly just LOOK better. Comparing a rattle can to a good quality paint is night and day in person.

Do you like the black? You can just stencil over it. Shouldn't even need to scuff sand, just stencil, prime, paint. Remove stencil then clear coat all of it. Make sure your stencil is tight, else it will bleed through and become a mess. Good tape and razor blade then use the stencil and draw the shape. Is it super intricate?


Otherwise, sanding it down to metal will be time consuming honestly. Most paints and powder coats are good substrates for a pprimer. It's most likely powder coated.
 
Depending on the design of the stencil, sanding around the entire thing could be very tedious if not difficult in some places. If he's going to be removing the stencil after painting, if it's not sanded good all the way up to the edge, it will likely peel the paint off around it UNLESS he gets it off while the paint is still wet without touching the paint on the case., then it will look like... Well. :rolleyes:

That's why i suggested just sanding the entire case and clearing it after removing the stencil, that way the problem is eliminated. Alternatively, you can sand the case all in one direction and make it look like brushed aluminum under the stencil and forget the clear. :cool:
 
Speaking of which, do you have the stencil? Can you post a pic or something that shows what it will look like? If it's not too complex then sanding around the edges won't be so bad.
 
Back