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Just want to say thanks to 24 dude and everyone else who's replied. You gave me plenty to think about. Oh when you do the gpu block do you also need the backplate?

:thup:

The backplate isn't mandatory but it can slightly knock a couple of degrees off of the GPU since it has a heatpad underneath it. It also adds as a support for the GPU with the block on it. Most cards tend to bend a bit over time but with the backplate, it not only supports it but gives it a nice finish look as well. :thup:

Just to be sure, are these your GPUs? If they are than these 2 full cover WBs should work with those for example. WB1 WB2

Don't forget you might want to take a look at a bridge or just using fittings and tubing but the bridge will make it easier to work with.
 
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Yes those are the cards and blocks I was looking at. What the heck is a bridge? Oh never mind I see now...
 
I'd go with a company who has the some of the best customer service as well as the quality and features of a board.

I would also agree and going with a 360mm up top, while losing a 5 1/4 bay and a 120.2 in the front. I would recommend going with the Black Ice Nemesis GTX 240mm and 360mm. But before doing so, make sure you take measurements. The thickness of both rads are 54mm each and add another 25mm for the fans in push configuration which would give you a total of 79mm total.

I would than grab some budget rad fans like the Helix120 PWM and grab a PWM splitter for the fans in a push configuration.

As for the pump and reservoir, well that all depends if you want to use up your last 2 bays. If you're still willing to go with a bay reservoir, I'd take a look at the Swiftech Maelstrom V2, pump/res combo.

As for the waterblocks, average full water block goes for $130ish +/- range. Use this tool to figure out which full water blocks are compatible with your cards. Once you're done and decide to order from Performancepcs, ask them if they have those exact model WBs in stock at their store instead of ordering from EK.

For CPU WBs, I'd take a look at another newly released Swiftech XL CPU WB. Great selection at performancepcs with custom designs by them or your own illuminated design.

Whats left is tubing, recommend Primochill Advanced LRT and barbs or compression fittings. Of course you'll want all of this in a loop filled with distilled water and a silver kill coil in the res.

Majority of my recommendations have been newly released products in the past few months and should be good to go if you choose to go down that path. I also made sure to link you to Performancepcs since they are based in Florida and shipment shouldn't take as long as it would from Frozencpu located in NY to your location. ;)

Hope this helps. :salute:

Pretty much on point. Those rads would also work well with some Medium Speed Yate Loons. Half the price of those helix120's :thup:
 
Pretty much on point. Those rads would also work well with some Medium Speed Yate Loons. Half the price of those helix120's :thup:

Except that the YLs run at their maximum speed. if you want to change the speed you need to buy a GOOD fancontroller. In the end you're far better off with a PWM splitter & PWM fans... its a bit "set & forget", its the 21st century, let the computer do the work... :)
OF course, if you get off on fiddling with knobs & fans speeds, by all means get (cheap) fans and a fancontroller... :)


.
 
A dual bay res is out of the question. Gotta have a burner in there.

Man I'm really hung up on the motherboard selection now. LOL
 
Well every board I think I want you guys say not worth it for whatever reason. LOL But I really wanted the VII Formula, but I can see you guys point about mofset cooling. So after a massive headache of MB searching I went with the VII Hero, so that's done. Also ordered the 4790k. Just need to decide on Corsair platinum or the Trident X.

Then get the water cooling stuff ordered. What do you guys think of acrylic tubing. I realize it may be more of a pita, but at least you can now purchase bending kits...LOL

Will get with Perf. PC and see if they have the full block, back plate and bridge for the GPU.
 
Then get the water cooling stuff ordered. What do you guys think of acrylic tubing. I realize it may be more of a pita, but at least you can now purchase bending kits...LOL

Will this be your first time water cooling?

Just my 2 cents: I'm finishing up my first water-cooled rig now, and it's complicated enough keeping everything in order and doing everything properly. If I had to do acrylic on my first water-cool…I'd probably shoot myself. Haha
 
Well not exactly if you consider using a XSPC kit as not qualifying. But 1st time choosing all the parts. Been playing with those 290's love em so far and thinking about slipping them into xfire on this rig. Not sure but I almost bet the 850W PS will be ok as long as you don't oc...Oh the madness. :bang head
 
Except that the YLs run at their maximum speed. if you want to change the speed you need to buy a GOOD fancontroller. In the end you're far better off with a PWM splitter & PWM fans... its a bit "set & forget", its the 21st century, let the computer do the work... :)
OF course, if you get off on fiddling with knobs & fans speeds, by all means get (cheap) fans and a fancontroller... :)


.
True, and after buy splitters might as well buy a fan controller plus the yate loons are also half of those fans.

You dont need a GOOD fan controller. Any fan controller will handle the yates very easy.

Using a fan controller is not a thing of the past at all. I like fan controllers because when not gaming I basically turn off all the fans.

Have you ever used yate loons? They have served me very well on all my rads for years from GTX extreme I currently have to RX, Swiftech, and thermochills, EK rads
 
Water cooling is easy. Figuring out the best way to route the tubing with the least amount of tubing is all the work. BTW, if you buy a res with a pump in it, don't mix up the inlet and outlet. I did that once and everything flowed backwards until I fixed it.

Take your time and concentrate. In almost 10 years I had one tiny leak that temporarily took out my bottom 470GTX. It just disappeared from Windows, so I stuck my hand on the back of it and felt water. I thought I ruined it. Nope. Dried it off, stopped the leak, put it back in and it worked like a charm. I guess it still does. I just sold both on eBay.
 
I do not doubt what you guys recommend but I want to know how and why you give the recommendations you do. Such as for an example you need a 120.10 or 120.8 and so on. See that's what I really want to know up front is why... Then how..
 
I do not doubt what you guys recommend but I want to know how and why you give the recommendations you do. Such as for an example you need a 120.10 or 120.8 and so on. See that's what I really want to know up front is why... Then how..

120.x denotes radiators that accept 120mm fans, 'x' being how many fans long the rad is. 120.3 being a triple, etc.
You might already know that.

People's recommendations come from 3 things:
1) General guidelines and rules-of-thumb
2) Personal experience with certain cooling equipment or computer components being cooled
3) Hearing other's experience with cooling certain components via certain cooling gear

Those three together will form a very blended opinion of what an individual will need for the currently proposed components list.
Results may vary.
 
I appreciate your replies but I get the 120.2 thing. What I don't get is how they come up with the heat load to dissipate. Those main factors being your CPU, GPU/s are probably the main ones. Watts my man equals heat or something like that.

Which brings me to what charts, perception, and general knowledge do you use to determine heat load in watts?

Because that is apparently what your using to make your assumptions.
 
I appreciate your replies but I get the 120.2 thing. What I don't get is how they come up with the heat load to dissipate. Those main factors being your CPU, GPU/s are probably the main ones. Watts my man equals heat or something like that.

Which brings me to what charts, perception, and general knowledge do you use to determine heat load in watts?

Because that is apparently what your using to make your assumptions.

You can go look at most quality benchmarks for whatever GPU/CPU is in question and they'll probably say what the wattage was under gaming/benching load.
If you have that total wattage, you can go look at radiators and how much wattage they can dissipate with 'X' fan at 'Y' speed holding constant at 'Z' water temp.
Some may keep wattage constant and show the temperature change.

Or you can follow along with people's suggestions.

Or you can do both, which is what I would recommend.
 
I appreciate your replies but I get the 120.2 thing. What I don't get is how they come up with the heat load to dissipate. Those main factors being your CPU, GPU/s are probably the main ones. Watts my man equals heat or something like that.

Which brings me to what charts, perception, and general knowledge do you use to determine heat load in watts?

Because that is apparently what your using to make your assumptions.

Physics kinda play into it also :)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_thermal_conductivities


Heatload : add all tdp together and you've got a balpark figure. A CPU puts out somewhere between 50 & 150 Watts depending on make & model - not even talking O/C. GPU's 175-200-250, even 300 Watts depending on make & model
A 120.1 rad can dissipate approx 100 Watts @ 10°C delta. It *can* do more IF you can live with loop temp exceeding 50°C and loud fans.
Note that if loop temp exceeds 50°C you WILL run into problems sooner or later... for example the O-ring of the D5 doesn't like +50°C very much.

Thus, the "rule" becomes
for CPU 120.1 - 120.2 for silent running and/or (mild) O/C
for GPU 120.2 - 120.3 for silent running and/or (mild) O/C

So, for a fairly simple CPU+GPU setup, you are between 120.3 & 120.5
Start adding SLI/X-fire and it adds up :)


OR.... you can use martins charts http://martinsliquidlab.org/
Time and again the results point towards an average of 300 Watts at 10°C delta for an 120.3 radiator.

.
 
... you can use martins charts http://martinsliquidlab.org/
Time and again the results point towards an average of 300 Watts at 10°C delta for an 120.3 radiator.

This. :thup: If my memory serves me correctly, Martin tested the triple rads in a round up and noticed just over half of them dissipated 300+ watts @ 2200 RPM.

radthermalbarcharts5.png

OP, most of us use reputed benchmark and review experts like Martin who give us the info. I guess you could say 120.1 dissipates roughly 100 watts but it will be at a much higher RPM range, assuming the fan has good static pressure even, not to confuse with case fans.

The lesson is, if you want a quiet rig, you'll need lots of heat surface.

High FPI = High RPM / Low FPI = Low RPM

Low Delta Temps = More heat surface

Check out martin's page if you want to get into the specifics. If you like that kind of stuff, you'll enjoy his site like a kid in a candy store. He also explains about loop resistance and how to roughly count it with every rad, fittings/angled, blocks etc to give you an idea. And about serial vs parrallel as well as pump performance. Remember the sweet spot for the flow of a loop is 1.0-1.5 GPM. There's many variables to a nicely setup system. Good cable management for good air flow. Air flow configuration etc. I can keep on going and going. lol Just have a look at martinsliquidlab site and have a field day.

And one last thing, since you don't want to go with a dual bay reservoir and house the 2 pumps, I'd advise on going with a tube reservoir and being a 900D case you could get away with a nice big one for the "bling" effect with LEDs etc. Place the pumps underneath that reservoir and have a drain port setup at the lowest part of the loop.
 
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Wait what... are you saying I need two pumps. I thought we were looking at one loop.
 
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