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Help me choose @1440p ASUS PB278Q vs. QNIX QX2710

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ninjacore

ninjacore

Member
​
Joined
Aug 13, 2006
Location
OH
Finally upgrading to a 2560x1440 display. I've been looking into the Korean displays for several days and amongst them, I think I've settled on the qnix qx2710. It's the one with only DVI-D input and is supposed to be a good overclocker. I can get it for $280-290 on eBay (for those who have purchased this one, will I also pay customs fees if shipped to the US?).

My other option is a used ASUS pb278q for $360 which "may" (?) have 1-3 bad pixels. I read that this one also has the ability to overclock (not as high of a ceiling).

I do like the additional video inputs on the ASUS as I'd like the ability to connect my work laptop to it when necessary (DP out, which I convert to HDMI).

Primarily, this is for gaming, however, so if I only were able to do DVI to my desktop, it's not a huge loss.

I'd like some opinions on which option seems like the better one.

Thank you!
 
Thanks. I've read several reviews on both. I think I'd be happy with either one, I was just looking more for opinions on the value comparison. Are the features of the Asus worth the extra $70-75, given that it has the same "pixel risk"?
 
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You say primarily for gaming.
Both of these monitors are ~16ms lag.

I think the Qnix is a bit lower, but I'd shop around and see if there's anything with a lower lag.
 
I see what you mean on the Asus. I was under the impression that the input lag on the qnix was very low, however? I think the popular review is the Anandtech one and they used the multi-input qx2710, which supposedly has significantly more lag.

Will I really notice input lag < 16ms? I'm coming from a 24" 1080P Asus VH236H.

What are some 27" 1440P displays with low input lag?
 
It's very possible that you'll notice a difference, as the VH236H is a very low lag monitor.

I've found that I notice (for racing) anything above ~6ms, but that could stem from having a wheel in my hands.
 
http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/m...eview-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html

This review (of the single input qx2710 I'm looking at) says 1-3ms of input lag, which I'd probably be fine with. I don't do racing games and despite how great I am at FPS games (;)), I don't play competitively or anything.

I guess I'm leaning more towards saving the $70 and going with the QNIX.

EDIT:
Just heard back from the Asus seller about the "possible" bad pixels:

"As for pixels there really are not any defective pixels but there are 3 small specs of panel dust. We describe it as pixels as most people confuse the 2. However the advantage to panel dust is unlike pixels it never changes color and sometimes will burn off after a period of use."

Hmmm Leaning even more to a Korean display.
 
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The qnix is a known beast overclocker. Can usually hit around 120 hz on those if thats important to you. Doesn't matter to me so much but others go bonkers for refresh rates lol
 
I have a Yamakasi catleap W270LED 2560x1440 it has 6ms lag and came with no dead pics and have had it for ~2 years and still no issues (only wish it had display port or Hdmi so I can use my DVI/VGA port on my 7970)
 
Thanks, mimart. Any reason to buy from that site rather than eBay? They seem to be $20+ cheaper on the latter.

Having more or less settled on a Korean display, I've added a couple others from which I'm trying to choose:

Yamakasi Catleap Q270SE (S-IPS, glossy(?), no speakers) - $270 (seller: lovelypeople)
LINK

QNIX QX2710 (PLS, matte, speakers) - $290 (seller: gmarketstore)
LINK

Crossover 27QW (AH-IPS, glossy(?), speakers) - $290 (seller: green-sum)
LINK

"Pixel Perfect" Q270SE (same as #1) (S-IPS, glossy(?), no speakers) - $295 (seller:bigclothcraft)
LINK

Speakers aren't a must. I have some desktop speakers for those times I'm not using headphones, but the built-ins are a bit easier.

I don't know where I come down on the glossy vs. matte debate. I have a large window (with blinds) near my PC, so I'm obviously concerned about reflections (which I know would annoy me), but I also saw a post somewhere where the matte film really seemed to be making the image look pretty ugly in comparison to glossy.
 
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None whatsoever. I was just giving you some more choices for monitors. Just make sure you get one that is pixel perfect. I have a matte monitor, and to me the image is good.
 
You think it's worth the extra $45 for the perfect pixel version of, for example, the qx2710 (I'm still leaning that direction)?
 
If you don't, you risk having noticeable dead pixels. For something as important as a monitor, I'd spend the extra money. You don't want the hassle of having to ship it back to the seller. I believe they allow 5-6 dead pixels for rma.
 
Perfect pixel, unless it has changed recently, is a scam on these monitors.

A) they don't guarantee no dead pixels even on perfect, and stuck pixels fall into a separate count for number of bad pixels.

B)if you have more dead pixels than the limit for perfect pixel but not a normal monitor, they just refund you the perfect pixel premium.

C) they sell all of their monitors as new and unopened. They couldn't do that if they had a high failure rate for the perfect pixel option because they would have to open a large amount of their stock to fill perfect pixel orders.

D) never proven, but the general consensus when the catleaps first got popular was that they never checked any monitor at all. If you got a bad one you got a partial refund. So your choice was pay normal price and maybe get perfect pixel or maybe get dead pixels. Or pay extra for perfect pixel and maybe get perfect pixel and maybe get a discount if you got bad pixels.

E)excessive backlight bleed doesn't count as defective.

I'd spend the money on a squaretrade warranty rather than perfect pixel, but that's just me. I also wouldn't even conssider a catleap over a qnix unless you pay the ~400$ for an overclockable one. Then it's a choice between having a monitor that may need to warm up to do 120hz (catleap) and a monitor that has gamma shift and needs to be calibrated at 120hz (qnix)



Edit: I see you have a 290 according to your Sig. Fair warning, both of my reference 290s (which yours is, sans the cooler) get a horrible unusable distorted image over dual link dvi if I overvolt them at all. It is specific to my catleap, and specific to the board that allowed 120hz. I have found several people who had similar problems with their 290s with catleaps and qnixs that support 120hz. If I have multiple monitors hooked up, only the dual link dvi distorts.

This is across every known driver, and with any refresh rate between 60hz and 120hz. Clock speed doesn't matter, temperature doesn't matter(ek full cover blocks). It is specific to voltage offset only, and while +200mv will distort faster than +20mv, I will eventually have to reboot my pc/unplug my catleap even at +20mv. I've tried different slots, crossfire, different psu, no crossfire, 3 different cables, including a tough to bend 24ga 3foot monoprice, everything you can think of I have tried. Even using the Asus pt3 bios that disables droop is enough to wig them out with no extra offset. It's not even just 3d load either. I will get corruption on a web page when overvolted.
 
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These monitors are not meant to be first quality monitors. The panels typically did not pass qc, but are still "good enough" for most users.
 
I paid 279 for my xstar and never regretted my purchase. Almost no light bleed(well within spec) I have one stuck red pixel a little left of center. Only notice if I look real hard. More noticeable on black screen. Most of my friends never have noticed. Buy one. Although you might have a little bit of a tougher time exchanging it if you have problems. I'm actually using the Asus color profile on my xstar. Its pretty :)

Also mine also has ran at 96hz since day one. No issues
 
I ended up finding a used (3-6mos) qnix (qx2710, DVI-D only) for ~$200 used with no dead pixels locally, which was an instant buy for me. I figured that's ~$100 off what I was gonna spend, I don't have to deal with wondering if I'll get one with bad pixels and it doesn't have a ton of use. I think it's the same as the X-star (just a rebrand?), so I'm hoping it will run at ~80Hz without issue. I'll have to ask you about the color profiles if I can't figure out what to modify those from online guides.

I'll post more details about it here when I get a chance. Thanks for everyone's input! I am pretty stoked :)
 
I believe they are called ICC profiles. Look up the Asus one. It might not be a perfect match for your monitor though. Online guides should help you I also use color sustainer. That's a great deal you should be able to hit 96hz pretty easy. Its a great improvement
 
Supertrucker said:
Perfect pixel, unless it has changed recently, is a scam on these monitors.

A) they don't guarantee no dead pixels even on perfect, and stuck pixels fall into a separate count for number of bad pixels.

B)if you have more dead pixels than the limit for perfect pixel but not a normal monitor, they just refund you the perfect pixel premium.

C) they sell all of their monitors as new and unopened. They couldn't do that if they had a high failure rate for the perfect pixel option because they would have to open a large amount of their stock to fill perfect pixel orders.

D) never proven, but the general consensus when the catleaps first got popular was that they never checked any monitor at all. If you got a bad one you got a partial refund. So your choice was pay normal price and maybe get perfect pixel or maybe get dead pixels. Or pay extra for perfect pixel and maybe get perfect pixel and maybe get a discount if you got bad pixels.

E)excessive backlight bleed doesn't count as defective.

I'd spend the money on a squaretrade warranty rather than perfect pixel, but that's just me. I also wouldn't even conssider a catleap over a qnix unless you pay the ~400$ for an overclockable one. Then it's a choice between having a monitor that may need to warm up to do 120hz (catleap) and a monitor that has gamma shift and needs to be calibrated at 120hz (qnix)



Edit: I see you have a 290 according to your Sig. Fair warning, both of my reference 290s (which yours is, sans the cooler) get a horrible unusable distorted image over dual link dvi if I overvolt them at all. It is specific to my catleap, and specific to the board that allowed 120hz. I have found several people who had similar problems with their 290s with catleaps and qnixs that support 120hz. If I have multiple monitors hooked up, only the dual link dvi distorts.

This is across every known driver, and with any refresh rate between 60hz and 120hz. Clock speed doesn't matter, temperature doesn't matter(ek full cover blocks). It is specific to voltage offset only, and while +200mv will distort faster than +20mv, I will eventually have to reboot my pc/unplug my catleap even at +20mv. I've tried different slots, crossfire, different psu, no crossfire, 3 different cables, including a tough to bend 24ga 3foot monoprice, everything you can think of I have tried. Even using the Asus pt3 bios that disables droop is enough to wig them out with no extra offset. It's not even just 3d load either. I will get corruption on a web page when overvolted.
Click to expand...
So if you leave the 290 at stock voltage you don't have the problem? Is it like that for all 290s? I have an XFX R9 290. I'm curious if I should stay away from the QINX DP2710 as it was the one I wanted to get as well.
 
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