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My First Loop

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Rithaniel

New Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2014
So, this is not only my first attempt at a custom water cooling loop, but my first custom built computer as well. Some people have advised me to avoid watercooling considering my inexperience, but I suppose I'm just stubborn, and I'm doing it anyways.

I've done a considerable amount of research, read most of the stickies on this forum, and know about how I need to keep my Delta T below 10° C and all those little details, but I have a series of questions that I can't seem to find answers for:

First, Galvanic Corrosion happens when dissimilar metals are in a loop together. Now, for this to be a major issue, they need to be highly dissimilar metals, like aluminum and copper. But, it can still happen even in a loop containing only brass and copper, correct? If so, then wouldn't it be wise to have all metals in the loop simply match? If so, then where are all the copper radiators and fittings that I can't seem to find?

Second, I like the idea of positive pressure cases, and want to keep my loop entirely enclosed within my case (I'll be listing specifics on my build in a moment), but the best place for my radiator, in my particular case, is a slot for two 120mm fans (likely would be putting an XSPC EK240 there), which, with the case oriented horizontally, like I intend to have it, would have my radiator resting on the bottom of my case, with the fans blowing up into the body of the case, maintaining the positive pressure. I don't think these two things have really been mixed too much in the past, so I was wondering: How much heat, if notable, might be fed back into the components this way? I'm open to alternative configurations as well, if anyone has any ideas, or if my current idea is not likely to work.

Third, for this one I'll go ahead and list my build:

GPU: GeForce GTX 780 w/ Hydro Copper (I really wanted to get the Ares III, because it matched my "black on black on black" color scheme (or lack of color scheme, I suppose), and it would be simply awesome to have one of those, but, well, it would have been a very tight fit, and, I didn't exactly want to pay $1500 for my graphics card either. Sticking with something more budget friendly in the meantime.)
PSU: Silverstone SX600-G
Case: Silverstone RVZ01 (Here's where my issues come in.)
Mobo: Asus Z97I Plus
CPU: Intel i7-4770K

Watercooling Parts:
CPU Block: EK Supremacy EVO Acetal
Radiator: XSPC EK240
Pump: Laing DDC pump (With Black Acetal replacement top)
Reservoir: Probably a T-line.
Tubing: 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD black Tygon

Alright, now that it's all posted, the foremost question: Have I selected sufficient cooling for the parts I have? If not, then would a larger radiator do the trick? Or perhaps a second, 120mm radiator on the "top" side of the case? Also, I would consider using a thicker radiator, but I can't find the clearance between the graphics card bracket in the rvz01 and the case wall. I'm certain the EK240 would fit, but if I can, I'd like to try a larger piece, like the RX240.

Also, an all-copper radiator and all-copper compression fittings are much desired. :)
 
So you're wanting a 120x2 aka 240 rad to cool the CPU and GPU with a DT under 10c? You'll need to pretty much double the radiator space. You didn't mention fans either, so go back and use some heatload calculations. I'd say under normal gaming usage you need about 400 watts of cooling, each 120x1 radiator in common usage is about 100 watts of cooling.

Rest looks okay, except which DDC pump and there is better tubing than Tygon.

Brass/copper/chrome/stainless all live very happy together. I don't think anyone makes pure copper fittings, they are all brass and most are coated.
 
Yeah, brass is commonly ~70% copper plus zinc, so it does play well with copper.

I go with 100 watts per 120 also. Some use a higher number, but I prefer throttling fans down low when not stressing it.
 
Having Too much rad never hurts but not enough affects your temp delta and noise from fans. 3/8 tubing is not a problem but you should consider using 1/2 ID to help get the most out of the loop. Targon was the go to hose 10 year ago but now there is better for WC. PrimoChill is very popular.
 
Alright, looking about, It seems that I can't do a loop that includes both my CPU and my GPU, unless I have an exterior radiator, as my case only has enough space for up to three 120mm radiators, one 240 and one 120. According to Martin, I'd have to compliment those radiators with 2500 rpm fans to even reach a 300 watt load. Also, it would seem that 400w would be my goal number. I mean, I could attempt to modify the case, but with the rvz01, that's just about impossible, what with how little space you already have to work with.

I believe I might reduce the loop to just the CPU and use air cooling for my Graphics card, but, again, I'm dubious about my placement of the radiator, just beneath the graphics card.

As for fans, I'm leaning between the Yate Loon D12SM-12C and the Xigmatek XAF-F1255.

Also, if Tygon is out, then what would the top three material be, nowadays?

As for pump, I believe I'll be going with the classic Laing brand DDC pump. I picked 3/8" tubing because the Laing DDC is designed with the 3/8" barbs of the stock top in mind. Increasing the size actually makes the motor overwork, and run hot, which dumps more heat into the water.

Also, my point was that copper and brass, while very similar, and still dissimilar enough to eventually cause galvanic corrosion. It might take forever and it might be even further slowed with additives, but wouldn't simply having all metals match be easier, in the long run?
 
:welcome: to OCFs.

First and foremost, when doing water cooling and building a rig, you want to get your loop parts finalized and based off that list get a rough estimate on how much room you need and case shop. That case you linked us is a console style/mirco case. That's something you'd connect to your TV or what not. Not a water cooling friendly case. Air flow with that case would be a nightmare and worthless when it comes to money spent on water cooling.

You could resolve this and go external via Phobya 120.9. I know its huge and more than enough cooling for your setup. If you went that route, you could run the fans on it very low and quiet while having the reservoir and pump stationed on the external housing of the rad. You'd be connected via QDCs.

Something like this for example.........

8591bdba_579703_349587348442162_256544891_n.jpeg

ex-rad-222_3.jpg
 
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