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PC showing it's age, i7 940 OC advice (noobie)

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EliteACEz

Registered
Joined
Sep 10, 2014
Location
Sydney, Australia
Hi Guys,

New here, I haven't really done any overclocking in the past. The last time I did any kind of overclocking I had a friend do it for me and I just watched.

Long story short, built a PC in 2008. Upgraded everything last year except the CPU and motherboard. New GPU, RAM, PSU, Liquid cooling, SSD etc. I'm a gamer and play a lot of Dota 2, Battlefield 4 etc, I can generally play most games in maxed out (or close to it) graphic settings. I experience occasional FPS drops at random moments though, even if I change the graphics to the lowest they possibly go. I've heard that it may be 'choking' ? CPU choking the GPU or something like that?

Anyway everything had been running fine without random drops until the updates of the last 3 months or so in games like Battlefield 4 and Dota 2 which have had large updates of late, albeit not massive graphical updates but large content updates none the less. And I've been experiencing random FPS drops and sluggishness more frequently, sometimes when there's absolutely nothing happening on the screen, eg; in Battlefield 4 I may be looking at another player run past and I get a FPS drop from say 60FPS to 9FPS for a fraction of a second. Or in Dota 2 I would be walking to my lane before the match begins and there's slight random jitter.

So before I go on, here's my current PC specs:
CPU intel i7-940 (was at 3.80Ghz for the past year or so after my friend OC'd it, from the stock 2.93Ghz)
GPU ASUS GTX 770 OC edition
RAM 3x 4GB Ripjaws
Motherboard GA-EX58
PSU Antec 520W High Current Gamer
SSD mind blank on the brand, just a 250GB one with my OS (win7 ultimate x64) and favourite games installed on
HDD 2x 1TB
Corsair Liquid Cooling, forget what it's called H120 or something like that, just one of those zero maintenance ones

So my knowledge of Overclocking is virtually non-existent, I only know what I saw my friend play around with in the BIOS and I've done some googling out of interest and a lot of it I really have no clue about.

My BIOS settings for the past year were:
Clock Ratio: 20x
BCLK: 190
vCore: 1.27500

which produced the desired result of a 3.80Ghz overclock which had been working wonders in reviving my quite old i7 and giving my PC new life with all the new hardware I got last year.

Just today I've tweaked it a bit to...
Clock Ratio: 20x
BCLK: 200
vCore: 1.30000

to produce 4.0Ghz.

I haven't had a chance yet to play any games and see how it goes, but my PC already booted up even quicker than it usually does. So I'm not sure if this will help improve performance and hopefully remove the in-game stuttering.

I'm just wondering if this is a safe overclock, and have I done it right? is there anything else I should be changing in the BIOS that I have missed?
I plan to buy a new CPU and motherboard sometime next year, I just want to remove the in-game stuttering if possible so I can go another 6 months or so without having to upgrade any earlier than I need to.

Thanks in advance!

Kindest Regards,
Nathan
 
As long as the system is stable gaming and/or running a stress test like Prime, LinX, OCCT, etc., then nothing else needs to be changed settings-wise. Also monitor the core temp's using software like Core Temp or Real Temp. Thermal Junction Max (TjMax) for the 940 is 100C, meaning that you should try to keep core temp's at or below 80C (a distance to Tj of ≥ 20C).
 
Frame skipping can be caused by a number of reasons. It can be your monitor and have nothing to do with your system at all. Also, try to use dvi-d to the monitor instead of HDMI if you haven't. then manually set the refresh rates. Also, make sure you have the nvidia drivers installed properly. Whenever I have problems with gaming I uninstall it and look for instructions on the web to remove all the drivers completely then re-install it. Another reason could be your PSU is inefficient but I doubt that is problem. May want to change that to something higher than 520 since you are Ocing and the GPUs these days are not efficient by any means.
 
That PSU should be fine for the system. PSUs do not cause any game hitching nor does their level of efficiency (how much power it takes from the wall versus how much it is actually using). It either works, or it doesn't.

GPUs are also pretty darn efficient these days. While power consumption is around the same, the performance you get compared to the last gen or two for the same power has gone up quite a bit. For example, the GTX 580 is a 250W card... So is the 680 and so is the 780ti... they all have the same TDP. ;)
 
PSUs do not cause any game hitching... It either works, or it doesn't.

A failing PSU can cause frame rate drop. My PSU just recently failed last week. However, it took over 2 weeks to get to the point where it failed consistently. My first signs of trouble were frame rate drops in games over maybe a minute time period, then the power would fail completely. The first few times it happened, I could turn everything back on and go about my business for several days before it happened again.

However, if OP's frame rate is dropping to low numbers then bouncing back, I don't think it's the PSU. If it is the PSU, the problem will only get worse until it fails more consistently.
 
A cheap and easy upgrade for you would be a X5650 there is really nothing worth upgrading to from the 1366 platform when you have cheap and easily overclockable 6 core westmere-ep Xeons.
 
What do I have to gain by lying?

even less than calling out an admin liek that. lol bound to gain lots of good stuff from that.
he didnt say you were lying it was probably something else that was causing the fps drop not the psu directly, maybe it dying was messing with something else that was dropping fps, or maybe not who knows.
 
An admin(red) or mod(green) can be just as wrong as a regular member. :)

That said, I do not think you are lying monta, but just mistaking as to the root cause of your symptoms is all. Its just not possible to happen that way, GPU cores are not a light bulb that it will 'dull' before it goes out. As I said previously, it works, or it doesn't!
 
An admin(red) or mod(green) can be just as wrong as a regular member. :)

That said, I do not think you are lying monta, but just mistaking as to the root cause of your symptoms is all. Its just not possible to happen that way, GPU cores are not a light bulb that it will 'dull' before it goes out. As I said previously, it works, or it doesn't!

I mistakenly made up a story about something that happened to me? That's lying.

Tell you what, give me your address, I'll send my old psu to anyone that wants it, you can put it in a comp, turn the comp on and you'll see that the comp WILL turn on, then shortly fail. I don't think you'll be able to replicate the fps drop however, as I wasn't able to have my comp on more than a few minutes the last time I was able to turn it on. As I said it took weeks for the psu to fail, but this should be enough to show you that a psu can work then fail, then work again, then fail again, etc.

Oh, and it's amazing what a coincidence it was, when I did replace the psu and all my problems went away. Hell, I found my solution by describing my symptoms in a web search.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2030551/plays-games-fps-drops-fps.html

And another: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=30526.0
 
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Perhaps the definition of "lie" needs to be shared... To lie means you intended to deceive. You did not intend to deceive anyone with your post(s). Nor do I believe you made it up. :confused:

Oh, I believe you that the computer will turn on and then fail... but the issue is that there is a FPS degradation as it is crapping out. I suppose anything is possible (never is absolute and all), but the likely hood of that happening is slim to none and slim is heading out the door. This would officially be the first time I have ever heard of it happening and it actually happening (assuming that was the true cause which we cannot prove with absolute certainty). :thup:

Anyway....................let's move on. :thup:

EDIT: 1st link shows nothing.. 2nd, its a big thread...
EDIT2: I can find a solution to anything in google... if it is actually the right one is the key though.
I do appreciate you backing up your assertions though. That goes a long way. :)

Again, let's move on... and don't take my doubting personally, eh? If you would like to continue on this discussion, my PM box is always open.
 
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to OP as long as temps are respectable that is a pretty common overclock for those older i7's :)
 
That PSU should be fine for the system. PSUs do not cause any game hitching nor does their level of efficiency (how much power it takes from the wall versus how much it is actually using). It either works, or it doesn't.

GPUs are also pretty darn efficient these days. While power consumption is around the same, the performance you get compared to the last gen or two for the same power has gone up quite a bit. For example, the GTX 580 is a 250W card... So is the 680 and so is the 780ti... they all have the same TDP. ;)

The normal OEM 770 recommends 600W system power minimum. http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-770/specifications

I have had first hand experience with several failing/inefficient PSU's. It isn't the case that the PSU just doesn't work if it is failing or inefficient.
The amount of problems caused by a inefficient/failing PSU is indeterminate as well. One of the computers I was fixing up only needed to replace the PSU. It was a motherboard/CPU/GPU combo upgrade and the system would run normally and boot to windows, however running games at 1440p caused frame skipping, jutter, micro stutter, and while playing games for a period of time would even cause the monitor to go out of sync. All of this was fixed by giving it a more powerful PSU. The PSU that was used did not die either. It still actually works but I haven't stressed it out, It is running on a HTPC.

Edit: Also, as I said before I doubt it is a problem with his PSU but it is something to keep an eye out for.
 
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This could be helpful to you if you decide to push more!
Just fill in your settings
Advanced CPU Features:
CPU Clock Ratio ................................ [21x]
Intel(R) Turbo Boost Tech .................. [Disabled]
CPU Cores Enabled ............................ [All]
CPU Multi Threading .......................... [Enabled]
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) ................... [Disabled]
C3/C6/C7 State Support .................... [Disabled]
CPU Thermal Monitor ......................... [Enabled]
CPU EIST Function ............................ [Disabled]
Virtualization Technology ................... [Enabled]
Bi-Directional PROCHOT ..................... [Enabled]


Uncore & QPI Features:
QPI Link Speed .............................. (36)
Uncore Frequency .......................... (16)
Isonchronous Frequency ..................[Enabled]


Standard Clock Control:
Base Clock (BCLK) Control ................ [Enabled]
BCLK Frequency (MHz) .................... 200
PCI Express Frequency (MHz) ........... [100]

C.I.A.2 [Disabled]

Advanced Clock Control:
CPU Clock Drive ..............................[800mV]
PCI Express Clock Drive ................... [900mV]
CPU Clock Skew ............................. [0ps]
IOH Clock Skew ............................. [0ps]


Advanced DRAM Features:
Performance Enhance ...................... [standard]
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P) ......... [Disabled]
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) ........ [6]
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) .......... [auto]

Channel A + B + C

Channel A Timing Settings:
##Channel A Standard Timing Control##
CAS Latency Time ......................7
tRCD .......................................7
tRP .........................................7
tRAS .......................................20
Command Rate CMD..................1

CPU
Load Line Calibration ................. [Lv2]
CPU Vcore ...............................1.375
QPI/VTT Voltage 1.150v ............1.355
CPU PLL 1.800v .......................1.900v

MCH/ICH
PCIE 1.500v ...........................1.560v
QPI PLL 1.100v .......................1.220v
IOH Core 1.100v ..................... 1.140v
ICH I/O 1.500v .......................1.560v
ICH Core 1.1v ........................1.140v

DRAM
DRAM Voltage 1.500v ..............1.66v
DRAM Termination 0.750v [AUTO]
Ch-A Data VRef. 0.750v [AUTO]
Ch-B Data VRef. 0.750v [AUTO]
Ch-C Data VRef. 0.750v [AUTO]
Ch-A Address VRef. 0.750v [AUTO]
Ch-B Address VRef. 0.750v [AUTO]
Ch-C Address VRef. 0.750v [AUTO]
 
The normal OEM 770 recommends 600W system power minimum. http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-770/specifications

I have had first hand experience with several failing/inefficient PSU's. It isn't the case that the PSU just doesn't work if it is failing or inefficient.
The amount of problems caused by a inefficient/failing PSU is indeterminate as well. One of the computers I was fixing up only needed to replace the PSU. It was a motherboard/CPU/GPU combo upgrade and the system would run normally and boot to windows, however running games at 1440p caused frame skipping, jutter, micro stutter, and while playing games for a period of time would even cause the monitor to go out of sync. All of this was fixed by giving it a more powerful PSU. The PSU that was used did not die either. It still actually works but I haven't stressed it out, It is running on a HTPC.

Edit: Also, as I said before I doubt it is a problem with his PSU but it is something to keep an eye out for.
That rating is incredibly high friend... The 770 is a 250W card. Without bios mods it can be 275W. Add the CPU in, and even overclocked you are looking at 100W. Give 100W for the board/fans/etc... And you can see that comes out to WAY less than their 600W reccomendation (and you would have to run both CPU and GPU at 100% which unless you are folding or something, that does not happen). That value is there with a lot of built in headroom for cheap PSUs to name one reason.

Inefficient PSU's really have nothing to do with anything here. PSU's can work fine if they are running inefficiently. Think about it, there are plenty of old non 80+ PSUs that ran things just fine and still do. The only thing efficiency has to do with here is your power bill. A PSU that is 80% efficient at 500W use is using 600W from the wall while a PSU that is 90% efficient at 500W is using 550W from the wall. That's it.
 
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