Might be in the market for a new 7.1 "amp"

My current receiver may finally be showing its age, as the side left channel is cutting out on it's own. Weird thing is that moving the volume knob up and down usually brings the channel back to life as if nothing is wrong, though it sometimes causes it to go out as well. When I have the time, I'll open the receiver up and give it a good cleaning and look over to see if there are any bad caps or anything else out of the norm that I can take care of. But just in case it needs to be replaced, I'd like to start looking now for a likely candidate.

My receiver is connected directly to my sound card in my PC, and it's sole job is just to act as a amplifier, so I don't use any of the other inputs, or even the radio. I purchased it because at the time, it was a decent receiver with good reviews, and had 8 channel inputs, along with a bypass for the audio in (the receiver would not process the audio at all), and of course, the price was very good (newer models were being introduced and it was on sale). The only downs to this receiver was it's only 75W per channel, and no HDMI input (cannot use my game systems with the receiver and my computer monitor).

I'd like something similar, with some more wattage if possible (running with Polk Monitor 40s all around), but I have no idea what to look for now, and a quick little search shows that 7.1(8) channel inputs are becoming a rarity on lower priced models. Looking for strictly an 8+ channel amplifier leaves me scratching my head even more, though I did see a 8 channel, 8000 watt Pyle for less then $200, had to laugh.

Any suggestions? What brands to check out? Which to avoid? Something with HDMI in? Separate HDMI input box instead?

You don't want to route HDMI through a receiver for gaming as it may add lag. (Ironically, the higher end receivers with their built in video processing are often worse in that respect!) For low latency multichannel support, it might be possible to configure your GPU (or even onboard HDMI if your motherboard has it) to output HDMI audio only and use another port for your displays.

Go for a receiver that uses HVICs or surface mount MOSFETs. Look through the top vents and the output stage should look a little like the VRMs on a motherboard. It should not look like a few blocks bolted to the side of a big heatsink - that's the older IPM or through hole MOSFET design. (Exception: really high power subwoofer amplifiers that use IGBTs.)

I didn't think of using a HDMI as audio only. However, my concern with that method would be less control over the speaker timing via distance controls, bass management, and individual volume control of each channel. It's been years since I looked at a receiver, but normally a unit with that much configurability would put you in the high end range, which is way beyond my budget for a receiver performing simple amplifier duty. Hence why I'm still rocking a modded SB X-Fi Titanium, for all that tweaking goodness, and why I'd prefer a unit with 8 channel inputs.

HDMI does 8 channels natively and the level controls built into the receiver should still work.

Using the 3.5mm connections with a digital amplifier is equivalent to using VGA on a LCD monitor and gives worse audio quality. Hybrid digital amplifiers do exist (might have to DIY for a good, affordable choice) and it should be possible to stack 4 of them to get 8 channels.

I just currently switched to a similar setup. I'm using DVI-D as my video signal to my Qnix and running an HDMI cable to a yamaha receiver for audio only. Only thing I did was disable the onboard sound card via the bios. I'm running AMD so not sure if nvidia can handle this setup but it's working fine for me. I didn't look for any other settings for just streaming sound as I don't think that's an option but I am using extended desktop even though only one screen is connected.

BTW sound quality is sooo much better than using a sound card as you get to stream an uncompressed/unprocessed audio signal this way.

If moving the volume knob clears up the problem , try cleaning the pot first. Could save you some money. Caig DeoxIT works great.

Digital amplifiers do not use potentiometers. Instead, they use rotary encoders that tell the DSP what modulation factor to use. Unless it's an analog or hybrid digital amplifier.

I didn't notice that the OP mentioned what type of receiver he was looking to replace , and the digital switching of a Class D amplifier doesn't necessarily exclude a volume potentiometer as far as I'm aware. The volume control would be part of the pre-amp section.

Almost all 7.1 are digital. By definition, digital amplifiers convert the incoming digital signal (usually PCM) directly into a bitstream that drives the power stage. The volume is determined by the modulation factor in the DSP and in some designs, the supply rail setting.

I don't know about "almost all" , but the Onkyo 7.1 I had most assuredly had a potentiometer for volume control. The mass market clones of B & O's ICE modules , and to a lesser extent Hypex's , is a relatively recent phenomena. Of course , 'recent' may have broader parameters to someone 50+ years old! But I still have no idea what the OP actually has.

It's most certainly a encoder type. Also, it's specifically that one output affected, as I have the bass below a certain freq redirected to the sub, and I can hear the sub, but not the speaker, when testing that specific channel. This leads me to believe it's something related only to the output of that channel that is the problem.

And I'm trying to avoid HDMI, as I don't want to lose the ability to adjust and fine tune my system via the bass management and timing (speaker distances) that the software for my sound card offers. I've already got my speakers EQ'd (via REW and Equalizer APO), as well as set to proper distances and volume that correlates with the sound card controls. Back when I first purchased this receiver, any receiver which offered this amount of user adjustments (bass management and timings) would be in the high end, well out of my price range. The low end rarely had more then a simple "Large, Small" setting for speakers, and a simple 10, 20, 30ms setting for timing, which affected all the surrounds equally, not individually. All the reviews I've read through so far just gloss over the available user adjustments, so I have no idea just what a modern receiver offers in terms of adjustments available to the user. That is my main concern with going to HDMI. I want to have the ability to adjust the system myself, not just sit a mic at my seating position and let the receiver auto adjust itself, with no way for me to fine tune any adjustments.

Ugh. It's looks like the Side Left channel is out for good, and now the rear left is starting to have the same symptoms. Most likely, this is not something I could fix and would need to replace the receiver.

Mpegger said:

Ugh. It's looks like the Side Left channel is out for good, and now the rear left is starting to have the same symptoms. Most likely, this is not something I could fix and would need to replace the receiver.

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Just get you a new one mate. They're dirt cheap these days and you'll get the latest codecs to boot. I would personally ensure it has HDMI 2.0 unless you know for sure that you won't need to do 4K @60p down the road.

Would just a multi-channel amp serve your needs? Something like this http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ma1260-multi-zone-12-channel-amplifier-60wpc--300-8150 ? It seems to have sufficient line level inputs and leaves your software to do the processing.

That one would work nicely, albeit a little expensive. Here are some cheaper ones that will work:
For the front channels:
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP7498E...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415045016&sr=1-1
For the rear, side, and center channels: (will need 3)
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020...2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415045016&sr=1-2

If you're willing to do some DIY electronics work, there are cheaper and better solutions available. Multi channel analog inputs on digital amplifiers are rare nowadays since OEMs don't want to pay for the individual ADCs that would be needed.

I was looking at Parts Express as well. They have a very nicely priced 100W x 4 channel amp for less then $50. 2 of those along with an appropriate power supply would do the job all for probably around $150-$170. However, the reviews do state that it has a hard on/off power (speaker pop), which isn't exactly something I want for my speakers.

I am looking at some refurb Denons with Audyssey MultEQ XT, and I may have the perfect replacement. It's a older model, but 90W per channel and the MultEQ XT should deal better with timings and bass management.

Then it's probably an old/cheap design. The Lepai modules I listed use modern HVICs.

Figures. I put in the order for the new receiver, I try one more time rotating the volume knob back and fourth, and the side left comes backs to life. With my luck, it'll never go out again, since of course, I already bought a new receiver it would decide to work flawlessly from here on out.

Mpegger said:

Figures. I put in the order for the new receiver, I try one more time rotating the volume knob back and fourth, and the side left comes backs to life. With my luck, it'll never go out again, since of course, I already bought a new receiver it would decide to work flawlessly from here on out.

Click to expand...

What did u end up ordering?

A Denon AVR-2112CI. Less then $300 shipped, but factory refurb. It's an older model, but has the MultEQ XT and plenty of watts to drive my speakers. The automatic timing, crossovers, and freq response done by it should make things loads easier for me. I can still fine tune the setup further if need be with my own custom EQ profiles on the PC.