I'm a water cooling virgin and wish to clarify some points - thanks!

I'll be a while before I use FCPU again. Unless of course I had no other options and it wasn't a big ticket item. For tubing I'd probably give it a go. For a water block- no.

GTXJackBauer said:

They still owe me $40+. Best is they cancelled my order after the fact the CC not being around since it has been cancelled since than.

Its up to you if you want to give them a shot. Some who have did get their products but idk. Have you tried performance-PCS, Sidewinder Computers or any of these UK sites?

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Sorry about your $40 GTX... Got to have been frustrating for you.
And yes, I've tried Sidewinders, PerformancePCs and everything you had listed in Germany and the UK

Thanks everyone for your feedback re FrozenCPU. Shame though. FrozenCPU had a good reputation.

I've just purchased some items including the wrong color res from PerformancePCs and the rest from CaseKing in Germany. So that's everything now. I'll be able to perform my first H2O<>PC short-circuit in around a week. I'll see if I can bring one or two of the metropolis electricity sub-stations to their knees

Ill definitely start a new thread as a build log with a few pics thrown in via one of my broken phones

Oh and one more thing please.

I read this in the Overclockers.com guide:

Radiator preparation is one oft-missed item. Boil sink water and let it cool 5 min. Pour into the radiator, filling it up and let it sit 10 minutes. Drain half of the water or so and shake it till your arms hurt, shaking 3-4 minutes, like a crazy person. Drain into a clear container. Do the “radiator dance” again and again till the water coming out is clear and there is no gunk once the water settles. Then do it two more times. Finally, fill the rad with distilled (or deionized) water and do the rad dance one last time. NOW and only now is your radiator 90% clean. No worries, the last 10% will come out in the next year or two when you redo your loop for maintenance.

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Do I need to prep the blocks, pump, res and tubing too with a similar method?

Thanks all!

No, just check for bits of foam etc when unwrapped. Run water through the hose, block and fittings etc. Just a good rinse and dry.

BTW, I'm the one who coined the 'rad dance' phrase.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/592874-Sticky-submission-review-please

"Rad prep:: One of the most missed things. Boil sink water, let cool 5 min. Pour into rad filling it up, let sit 10 min. Drain 1/2 water or so, shake till your arms hurt, 3-4 min like a crazy man. Drain into a clear container. Do the rad dance again and again till the water from the rad is clear and no gunk once the water settles. Then do it two more times. NOW and only now is your rad 90% clean. No worries, the last 10% will come out in the next year or two when you redo your loop for maintenance. Oh and post a vid of ya dancin, be a fun thing to see. My wife asked me what the hell was I doing.........."

I've still got some CoolLaboratory CLU left from earlier.

I don't *think* the EK blocks (for GPUs & CPU) contain any aluminum, but I need to be sure. As far I'm aware the block plates are full copper.

Please confirm whether it is safe to use CLU with the EK blocks on my CPU & GPUs

Thanks again for your time and patience.

No aluminum in any wetted parts, you are fine. Blocks these days are copper coated in nickle. Or just copper.

Not a worry.

Probably a dumb question but I need to confirm

Good news!! My preferred Blood Red tube res turned up today. Managed to get [probably] the last one currently available from global stocks! And that brings me to another, yes another question.

Choice 1:
I got the pcb measurements for my 970s a few months ago and therefore knew there was enough space to mount my res between my 970s and the drive bays. The only question was whether the mounting bracket holes would line up with something on the chassis. So now I know I will have to drill at least a couple of holes for the res to mount in this gap. And that is fine.

Choice 2:
Res could be mounted inside the rear of the case, adjacent to the pre-mounted chassis exhaust fan. This would not require any drilling. It would however, partially block the rear ventilation holes, would interfere with the natural airflow across the components and probably impact my temps.

Would I be correct in assuming that this is a bit of a no brainer? It has to be choice one for best thermal performance and temps yeah? Please advise if I assume incorrectly or have missed something.

Thanks again everyone for your time

Edit for @Conumdrum: Oh...there will not be any 'rad dance' videos posted here. I tend to get a bit carried away when I dance in a public arena. I start busting out a few of my moves. It ends up with backflips all over the shop. And then stuff gets broken. It'll be more of 'vigorous rad shimmy' instead. Not worth filming. Nothing to see here.

Inside is best and best looking for sure. Minor drilling is okay with me.

Tbh, I couldn't tell you which option. A diagram or image of your case with each of your choices shown would be nice.

Okay then (and thanks)

I would place in position 1. Position 2 will make removing your GPU(s) very difficult. JMHO

Was the case already purchased and is that a Lux or Pro I'm seeing in the image?

It's a Phanteks Primo I bought back in February. The picture is one I pulled off the net and edited to include the red rectangles! It already contains a fully operational system that I installed back in March. The loop and additional GPU are essentially an upgrade

I'm looking to improve overall performance, increase overclock, lower my temps and have a rig that runs as silently as possible (except for the inevitable coil whine). Low noise is my ultimate aim for everyday use. Best thermal performance when testing/benching (who cares about the noise for that lol)

Anyhow...too much waffle...back to your question again...It is the Primo lol

I'm guessing you mean the Primo Enthoo, their flagship mammoth case.

There are a few members that did builds in a case like that. Pretty much filled the top and bottom with rads. Not sure if they were in push or pull or both but regardless one or the other is fine on low FPI rads. I'd look into rads that are about 60mm thick.

I've already bought a pair of 360mm UT60 rads and AP-15s x 12. Planning to run the AP-15s at lowish speeds to keep the noise down.

Right then. Time to move on from this thread. Thanks again to everyone who has provided me with advice and support. It is a good thing you do in sharing your knowledge. Definitely appreciated. I'm going to open a new thread for my build log. I'll try and take a few pictures tonight of the components all laid out and looking pretty for the opening post. I'll start the build on Friday as I'm on annual leave from Thursday through 'til Tuesday.

Awesome! Can't wait to check it out.