• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Servers from the 90's...

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
Evilsizer said:
other options would be from Nichicon or Panasonic, all things being the same im not sure why some cost more then other from the same brand. as in all ratings are the same, i dont see anything in the pdf that makes one better then another. why not go with the lower cost caps?

higher voltage rating on caps, from what i recall should follow 10% min. higher then voltage going into the cap. i like 20%, the question is what voltage, 3.3v or 5v? if its 3.3v then the rating is already way more then needed and close to 50%, if its 5v rail then even at 20% the cap would need to be 6v. stick with 6.3v and the same uF rating, you might find by going to a higher voltage or uF rating. the cap might be larger in diamater then the current one and may not fit on the board. all depends on spacing around the area of the cap.

i would suggest this
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19464
but i dont know if they ship to CA and you need a $10 min order.
Click to expand...

Purely from a trusted name standpoint. Rubycon.
Though panny is also a good name when it comes to caps.

I will admit, I didn't dig deep into caps because I thought the board was toast after my pin shorting episode :-/

As for the 10$ min order, a few solar cells will fill that part ;)

- - - Updated - - -

Mr.Scott said:
Nice save. You were lucky. ;)
Click to expand...
No kidding!

I couldn't be more happy.
I'm not installing the 2nd CPU until I re cap it. There's bulging caps in the 2nd CPU's VRM section :eek:
 
yea if they are in the vrm section its the 5v rail on P3's back then. computers didnt move to the 12v rail for cpu voltage supply till P4's, either get the 6.3v's ur linked too. there is still nothing wrong with sanyo caps either, some are just better in different applications then other. Prolly more then likely for slight changes in chemistry or manufacturing. for computer the general purpose caps will be good enough.
 
Evilsizer said:
yea if they are in the vrm section its the 5v rail on P3's back then. computers didnt move to the 12v rail for cpu voltage supply till P4's, either get the 6.3v's ur linked too. there is still nothing wrong with sanyo caps either, some are just better in different applications then other. Prolly more then likely for slight changes in chemistry or manufacturing. for computer the general purpose caps will be good enough.
Click to expand...

Thanks :)

Need to find another site for caps to compare against... Newark/Element14 has some caps, I'll hit them up too.
Just need to measure the cap's lead spacing first. I think​ it's 5mm....

EDIT: Also, RAM gets hot while running memtest! 59C is the hottest one! :shock:
 
So I was also thinking of buying the caps for the other G-luxon's I just found. Save on shipping.

These ones say 25v 330uf.
I assume these are for the 12v rail right?
That means I can use 16v caps.
 
im not sure what your talking about atm, where were these caps located? as to me it sounds like you had some laying around and want to use them. either that or they were caps on the board that are bulging as well?
 
Evilsizer said:
im not sure what your talking about atm, where were these caps located? as to me it sounds like you had some laying around and want to use them. either that or they were caps on the board that are bulging as well?
Click to expand...

lol my bad. late night post :p

I mean I found more G-Luxon caps on the serverboard, that are in good condition, but I want to have the replacements ready when they do start to bulge. These caps are mainly between PCI slots and there's one by the USB/LPT port.

I have no spare caps here, so I thought I'd ask before I buy them :)
 
if your already replacing caps, do them all at once. that way your not tearing it down to do the work again, more of a time saver imo. if they are for the 12v rail then possibly someone recapped the board and used higher rated ones they had on hand. still hard to say since i dont know what brand they were using back then, i would just replace them.
 
Evilsizer said:
if your already replacing caps, do them all at once. that way your not tearing it down to do the work again, more of a time saver imo. if they are for the 12v rail then possibly someone recapped the board and used higher rated ones they had on hand. still hard to say since i dont know what brand they were using back then, i would just replace them.
Click to expand...

You're right, might as well get it done when the board is on the bench.
I can't imagine any rails higher than 12v on a serverboard so I think I can get away with 16v caps instead.

I'm only nervous about removing the old solder. The bad caps guide mentions sucking away the solder but to be careful not to damage some sort of foil in the PCB? :shrug:

I don't know, kinda nervous about it... but it needs to be recapped.
 
Hot air makes it way easier. Another tip for thick boards it to wiggle the bad caps until they break off, that way you can work from both sides of the board.
For cap replacement I generally run my hot air around 350c and the iron at 330c with a big chisel tip. You need to get good heat there fast. Small tips will not do this.
 
I worked at an electronics assembly shop where we had all the hot irons and hot air stations and even then it was difficult due to the 2oz copper foil power/ground planes inside the board sinking off the heat faster than I could apply it even with a 100W iron. I ended up getting the job done, but I had a pad lift off on the back because I took too long. Fortunately it was non connected and the hole barrel was still intact. My friend Flathead74 used a high wattage soldering gun and it worked well for him. See my links.

You can't just grab a cap out of a used/spare parts bin based only on voltage/ufd specs alone. You need caps that are specifically made (low-ESR-equivalent series resistance) for on-board high frequency switching power supplies on computers. See my links.
 
Last edited:
I have that old inverter my dad blew up on me >_> and since the caps are all busted open, it's perfect to practice on. :)

But now I'm a bit confused on what caps I should be looking for now....
Low ESR? 0.o
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

tacitus
Building a silent rack-mounted workstation with the Silverstone RM51
Replies
4
Views
2K
Zerileous
Zerileous
Voodoo Rufus
ITX HTPC build aka Adventures in Haswell
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
Mr.Scott
Mr.Scott
Zuzzz
Galaxy A71 5G. . . . from a huge disapointment to.....
Replies
0
Views
555
Zuzzz
Zuzzz
trents
Looking for advice on building a server
Replies
5
Views
602
trents
trents
Aegir
Ultra-Retro Extreme Capability and Compatibility Build
Replies
15
Views
1K
Mr.Scott
Mr.Scott
Back