Water cooling loop configuration

Hello everyone!

I am wondering if I could get some advice on this loop configuration? Do you think this is efficient enough? I would have done RAD -> GPU's -> RAD -> CPU, but this one was more aesthetic and easier to setup in the Corsair Carbide 540. Please let me know what you think. I booted up Titanfall the other day and the GPU got up to 70C before the water block started leaking. I thought maybe the card isn't getting enough cooling and I should rethink my layout.

The res needs to be before the pump. After that, the loop order really doesn't matter as temps within a properly sized and flowing loop only vary by 1-2C really.

What hardware are you cooling, and what size are those rads?

EarthDog said:

The res needs to be before the pump. After that, the loop order really doesn't matter as temps within a properly sized and flowing loop only vary by 1-2C really.

What hardware are you cooling, and what size are those rads?

Click to expand...

Thank you for your help EarthDog!

I am cooling 2 x GTX 980's and 1 x Intel i7 5820k.

The rads are 1 x dual 120mm and 1 x triple 120mm.

The coolant I used uses a concentrated mixture with a ratio of 1:3 (coolantI water). Maybe my ratios weren't right? but I don't see how that could make that huge of a difference.

Thanks again!

Just make sure that res is before the pump so your pump doesn't run dry...

NO idea on ratios. Most people will tell you to only use distilled water.

What is your airflow like in in the case?

what are you using glycol ?

EarthDog said:

Just make sure that res is before the pump so your pump doesn't run dry...

NO idea on ratios. Most people will tell you to only use distilled water.

What is your airflow like in in the case?

Click to expand...

on both rads the airflow is going into the case. I have two 120mm fans on the dual 120mm rad and three 120mm fans on the triple 120mm rad. I have one 120mm fan on the back of the case that is pulling air out from the case. I wanted positive pressure in the case to prevent dust accumulation.

I will say this, I have a Corsair 1000watt power supply which I thought was enough, but I'm wondering if it isn't. I have the fans all plugged into a hub, but they don't seem to be running at as high of RPM's and I would want them to. Also, I'm having issues with RAM and my second GPU being recognized... but that's a problem for another time haha

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Witchdoctor said:

what are you using glycol ?

Click to expand...

Can't remember off the top of my head, but I'm using DI water I borrowed from the lab I work at and Mayhem's Blueberry concentrate

You could EASILY use a 600W PSU honestly... The GPUs are 165W each and the CPU is 120W. The fans and board and other peripherals wont even add 100W... and this is if you run those parts at 100%. Unless the PSU is bad, which I doubt, it is not the PSU.

That isn't great airflow in the case like that with only one exhaust. Though temps may go up a bit, I would go front/sides = intake, top/rear - exhaust. Positive pressure only keeps dust out of the cracks. But since your top intake isn't filtered, that kind of defeats the purpose.

I had a 295x2 and a 5820K being cooled by 3x120mm and a thick 2x120mm up top in the same case. My CPU temps, with it at 4.2GHz 1.2v, never broke 60C. Are you sure you bled all the air out, and your flow is at least 1GPM?

What pump do you have?

Also, never use dyes. Most of them will clog your loop after a short time. Next time you want color, do colored tubing instead.

EarthDog said:

You could EASILY use a 600W PSU honestly... The GPUs are 165W each and the CPU is 120W. The fans and board and other peripherals wont even add 100W... and this is if you run those parts at 100%. Unless the PSU is bad, which I doubt, it is not the PSU.

That isn't great airflow in the case like that with only one exhaust. Though temps may go up a bit, I would go front/sides = intake, top/rear - exhaust. Positive pressure only keeps dust out of the cracks. But since your top intake isn't filtered, that kind of defeats the purpose.

I had a 295x2 and a 5820K being cooled by 3x120mm and a thick 2x120mm up top in the same case. My CPU temps, with it at 4.2GHz 1.2v, never broke 60C. Are you sure you bled all the air out, and your flow is at least 1GPM?

What pump do you have?

Also, never use dyes. Most of them will clog your loop after a short time. Next time you want color, do colored tubing instead.

Click to expand...

Actually, I'm not sure I did (bled out the air). I wasn't sure if it was absolutely necessary. Is there a specific method to it? I don't know how to measure my flow, the fan pin for the pump doesn't reach the CPU fan header.

The pump I'm using is Phobya DC12-400 PWM 12Volt Pump

It is incredibly necessary, yes. Specific method? Not really. Make sure you tip your case around and shake it a bit is about all you can do.

I am going to have to assume then the pump is running at full tilt.

Thank you for the advice! I'll work on getting the air bubbles out and rearrange my fans. I'll probably situate a push-pull config on the triple 120mm rad.

Why did your GPU leak? Which one did? Was that the reason the other GPU isn't being recognized?

It seems to me you jumped into water cooling way too fast. You should have known about priming your pumps and bleeding the loop prior to getting your H20 hardware and the knowledge that colored fluids will gunk and stain your stuff. Have you set up drainage?

Its a learning experience and a expensive one at that. Keep us updated and we'll assist you as best we can.

GTXJackBauer said:

Why did your GPU leak? Which one did? Was that the reason the other GPU isn't being recognized?

It seems to me you jumped into water cooling way too fast. You should have known about priming your pumps and bleeding the loop prior to getting your H20 hardware and the knowledge that colored fluids will gunk and stain your stuff. Have you set up drainage?

Its a learning experience and a expensive one at that. Keep us updated and we'll assist you as best we can.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure why my GPU leaked exactly. There is no reason it should have. Idle temp was around 29-30C and load temp was around 80C. Even at 80C, it shouldn't have leaked. I took the card apart and found that the O-ring that sealed off the channel in the water block was loose. It's possible that it expanded when the carded heated up, and came out of its grove. I cleaned off the card, and made sure to put it back together tightly. Other than that there was nothing to fix.



I don't think I jumped into water cooling too quickly, I think I was just losing my patience. It was really hard to find time to work on the build, so it ended up taking about two months to put together. I may not have been thinking to make sure the loop is air bubble free, but other than that I did my research and have built loops before. However, you're probably right. Unfortunately there is no one I know (friends or family) who could help me learn more. I don't know why my GPU leaked or why the second GPU isn't being recognized. I guess Murphy's Law can tell me why. Which tends to be the case with anything I do...even if it's making a grilled cheese sandwich.



I've reseated the second card, installed and reinstalled the drivers, updated the chipset, and changed out the power connectors. I was able to get the card recognized for like 5min, but then it disappeared again. That means the card does work, which is good to know.

I was aware that buying colored coolant can gunk up your pump. I used Milli-Q water instead of DI water and I used a larger ratio of water to concentrate. I do have a way to drain the system, although it involves turning the case on its side.