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Laptop Notebook won't start at all - please help me open it and diagnose it

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c627627

c(n*199780) Senior Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2002
hp Pavilion g6-2237us C2L84UA
hp web site is down now but when it comes back up
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=5318955
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...en&cc=us&dlc=en&sw_lang=&product=5318955#N186


The led light next to where you plug in the power supply is actually working but the laptop will not turn on at all or make any noise.
Already tried taking out the battery, power-only on, battery-only on, standard hard reset procedures...

I know the hard drive is working, took it out and rescued files. I have two power supplies, it's not the power supply. I have two batteries, it's not the battery.

I have two identical laptops. One is working.
Help me open it up and diagnose the problem.

I am guessing it's the motherboard or something related to internal power?
How risky would it be to use the parts from the working laptop to help diagnose the problem?
My main problem is how to open it... can't find a good how to disassemble this model hp Pavilion g6-2237us C2L84UA
 
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Sorry, I literally am slowly going blind and missed that part. I had this month's injection into one eye this morning.

The maintenance manual with FRU numbers is here and planar replacement starts on page 69. The table of contents has quick links as well.

http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c02829479.pdf

Time and patience are the key to not bollixing up the other board during testing. Replacements do look rather inexpensive on ebay, if you need one.
 
Thank you kindly for the detailed maintenance manual which spells out in detail what I really needed.
I hope the modern medicine helps and that things improve!

This really helps me decide what to do and it was a time-sensitive issue for me.
Xaotic, side question: Would you have ever known I needed help with this today if I had not posted it in the Blue Room?
 
Yes, I normally look through GH, storage, cases, alt modding and laptops sections, unless something strikes my fancy. I spent too long in laptop development to not be willing to assist.

The meds help at this point, but it's still unnerving and it has been a long time getting to this point. With any luck, it will be stabilized within the next couple of years,
 
Sorry, I literally am slowly going blind and missed that part. I had this month's injection into one eye this morning.

Ouch! I've had that done to one of my eyes which was getting macular edema. Managed to stop the progression without laser treatments or continuing shots.

Hope you can stabilize and hold on to what vision you have.
 
Almost exactly. Mine got rather advanced primarily due to my stubbornness and workaholism, three laser cauterizations, implants and now the second set of injectables. The retinal specialist is more hopeful than I have been, so I'll go with his opinion.

Glad yours is controlled.
 
Now I'm getting DSEK done on both eyes w/cataract removal. OD is done. OS is next later this year after I'm done with my summer astronomy star parties. Probably late October/ early November. Aging is a b****!

Thanx a lot for helping out. Seniors are the backbone of the forums.
 
That sounds like a bunch of work. Given any luck I will not be having my other rotator cuff done then.

Age is taking a lot longer to get used to than I had thought, but it;s better than the alternative.
 
No. This will now be a major undertaking figuring out which component failed.
 
Could simply be the power switch, and that is the first part I would swap. I'm not sure about that exact model laptop, but on most that I have worked on, the bezel around and under the keyboard can be completely removed and swapped, including the power switch. I would simply pull that bezel, and connect the switch from the working laptop to see if it'll power on. If so, you can usually remove the switch, and see if the connections came loose or something.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, Dlaw.
This is the document that lists the power button on page 53.

If it is the culprit, in your experience is the only way to check by having a new working power button cable assembly that would reveal that by connecting it to the laptop or are there times when reconnecting it or messing with it without having a new one would work?
 
That sounds like an easy check.

Most of the laptops I play with do not have a separate board for the switch assembly. Since this does, try pulling it first and reseating the connector. This can likely be done with the system open for testing. Check it for any foreign objects or debris while it's out.

You might want to try pulling the RTC battery from page 49 as well to ensure a full reset. For initial testing, I'd probably recommend starting the system in a minimum non-bootable configuration by removing the HDD and ODD as well.
 
I had an older HP (D6000 or something) and it failed to receive power from the adapter. The part was available on Ebay for 15 bucks I think and it was eaily replaced on the motherboard. I realize they are a number of years apart (my laptop and yours) but it might be something like that..
 
I had an older HP (D6000 or something) and it failed to receive power from the adapter. The part was available on Ebay for 15 bucks I think and it was eaily replaced on the motherboard. I realize they are a number of years apart (my laptop and yours) but it might be something like that..

If the charging light comes on when plugged in, I don't think it's the adapter.

As far as trouble shooting the power switch, the most common way for them to fail is the wires get crimped or detached from the switch, and it's usually pretty easy to spot. If the switch or leads look physically damaged, it's a pretty safe bet. However, if you can't see physical damage, it can still be that the switch mechanism is worn or damaged in a way that you can't see, so swapping it out would be the most definite way to rule it out.
 
I am posting this in case search spiders ht this thread, as there is no detailed explanation for this model on the internet.

1. Shut Down.
2. Disconnect external devices.
3. Disconnect Power.

These are the ONLY prerequisites that follow, to disconnect the keyboard:

hpKeyboard0.png


But it was not possible to "Using a thin, non-conductive tool, press on the back of the keyboard through the release access hole until the keyboard disengages from the computer."

hpKeyboard1.png

hpKeyboard2.png
 

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It was very much glued so that a guitar pick was needed around the edges - it was physically not possible do it in any other way.
Actually taking out the DVD drive and using a guitar pick or equivalent starting on the edge accessible AFTER the DVD drive is removed was mandatory.

You absolutely cannot just "Using a thin, non-conductive tool, press on the back of the keyboard through the release access hole until the keyboard disengages from the computer."

You would break the keyboard if you did only that.
 
You can use a small (like glasses kit) screw driver to remove the keyboard after you remove the screw. There are little "pegs", if you will, around the top and sides of the keyboard. They are spring loaded, and easily pushed back under the bezel. My preferred method (because many times, you risk damage to the keyboard otherwise) is to use that small screw driver to push in the "pegs" in, and once far enough in, insert the screwdriver underneath the keyboard. That should keep the keyboard from falling back underneath the peg. Then, repeat the process until the keyboard is free.

EDIT: Really, glued in? I've never seen that before, was that laptop a refurb?
 
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