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[Project Log] The Man-Cave!

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Lmao. I never get her mad. She turns into She-Hulk when she gets angry.

I busted my but today. Got Xmas lights up outside before it gets cold. Trimmed a bunch off one of the front yard trees that was rubbing against the house. Spent a few hours at the big box stores getting the above goodies. Then the demo. I'm pretty wiped out. Tomorrow not gonna be any easier.

"Ain't no rest for the wicked. Money don't grow on trees"
 
YOU REALLY WANT AN R FACTOR OF 7.5?
that's going to help warm the cpu water buddy.
 
Lowe's let me down again. My lumber order of nearly 200 boards will not be delivered today as promised. It sounds like Thursday is the next available delivery. Heading into the woods on Friday for the November 15th Deer season opener.

So looks like the next update will just be a bunk of wood. No work til Turkey day-ish.

P.S. This will probably be my last order with Lowes.
 
Lmao. I never get her mad. She turns into She-Hulk when she gets angry.

I busted my but today. Got Xmas lights up outside before it gets cold. Trimmed a bunch off one of the front yard trees that was rubbing against the house. Spent a few hours at the big box stores getting the above goodies. Then the demo. I'm pretty wiped out. Tomorrow not gonna be any easier.

"Ain't no rest for the wicked. Money don't grow on trees"

I hear ya buddy, mine is the Fire Dragon...spitting flames everywhere. Oh and that name came from her brother and sister, not I.



I hate when orders get effed up, though I've had it happen with both Lowes, Home Depot as well as a local mom and pop lumber supplier. I guess it happens.
 
What are you using for the flooring? I assume that your house is old enough that it doesn't have a thermal break under the pad. I was thinking of using 2" foam board for the floors and 1" for the walls but I'm thinking of using a flooring system like the DRicore. That way any moisture that wicks up has air movement to let it out. I'd still use ridged foam on the walls then frame out 2x4 and insulate the cavities.

What are you doing about a sound barrier? You wouldn't want the "roar" of the game keeping the house up at all hours.
 
For the flooring I'm going to use a heavy moisture resistant padding with carpet. My buddy has this in his basement and it works pretty well. I looked into the dri-core systems but the pricing is out of my range. If the heavy padding isn't enough then I may upgrade to that at a later time.

For sound I was looking into using standard insulation in the joists with sound proofing ceiling tiles. The problem with this is the heat vents. They carry sound no matter what you do. Even the sound proofing wrap that they make for those don't work well from what I've read. The solution is simple. My Castle-live with it. LOL
 
this one puts my project mancave to shame :(
looking good!
 
Got my palate<SP> of lumbar this morning. Everything is on hold until I get back from hunting. With a little luck the man - freezer will be stocked with venison.

View attachment 171138
 
I can't wait until shotty season starts here. I don't hunt, but we need people to get some deer off the freakin' roads!
 
HEY!!! look, I think I see a SAAB 95 in the background, did you go to the aero academy?
 
UPDATE and preview of what's to come.

So I had a few hours today to start with the insulating foam and come up with a plan for extending the (future) bathroom wall.

The pink Owen Corning foam was glued using a special foam adhesive to the basement wall. There was an issue with this as the glue will not stick to the crap white contractor paint, or the paint is simply peeling from the wall. It's not a major issue as the glue is really just to hold it until I get the horizontal 1x3 furring strips secured.

Through out this project I'll have 5 horizontal strips anchored to the concrete wall using 1/4"x3 1/2" Dryvin pins. Followed by vertical 1x3 strips @ 16"OC. These will be screwed in with standard 1 5/8 screws. The vertical boards will act as my studs for securing the drywall to. The grid pattern that is made by this provides for clearance for the electrical wiring to pass behind the vertical strips and in front of the horizontal ones. Once you determine where your outlets and switch boxes will be just use a hand saw to carve out a section of the foam for it to fasten to the stud. By using the 1 1/2" foam I'll have enough depth to use a standard size box. I really dislike the shallow grey basement boxes so this is a nice feature and will provide ample room for heavy gage wire ( :D ).

You can also see the corner stud for the extention. This board is critical as it sets the room depth for my workshop. I didn't have the correct anchors to fasten the pressure treated baseboard so it's just there temporarily.

That's all for now. I'll add a pic of the exact anchors I'm using as I'm sure some of you aren't familiar with them. They seem to work pretty well.

View attachment 171558
 
Thanks Manny, still a long way to go.

Here is a few pics of the Dryvin pegs being used. The 2 1/2" is for anchoring the studs to the floor and the 3 1/2" is for the walls. They come in rounded head and flat head. You can also use spring pins for the walls but I like how robust these are and seem much more secure in comparision. For the floors you can speed up the process by using Ramset nails, but I don't have a Ramset so I'm going the slower route. In the end the result will be the same.

View attachment 171601

View attachment 171602
 
UPDATE!

Studded out the back wall for the Bar and installed the insulation to the back wall of the future bathroom. You may notice some studs are rotated. This is because the spacing from the stairwell was a little off so this helped correct it.
View attachment 171674
View attachment 171675
View attachment 171676

Bonus feature.
Here's a little how to for you all incase you decide to take a project like this.

Make a spacer to keep your studs 16OC. Make sure the first stud is level then just use the spacers instead of re-measureing each one. The standard is to set the studs 1/2" off the floor (any wood touching the floor needs to be pressure treated) so I used a piece of 1x3 scrap. It's actual thickness is 5/8" so pretty close.
View attachment 171677
 
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