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mve vs. z77 ocf plus an estimate request

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funsoul

funsoul

Senior Member
​
Joined
May 3, 2004
Location
NJ, USA
Hi Folks

Finally sent out some mobos for rma and looking to sell off a few shortly.

For 1155....which board should I keep and why? Have an asus maximus v extreme and an asrock z77 oc formula. Leaning toward keeping the mve as I like the board and the oc panel (which will work with a number of my vga cards) but would appreciate your thoughts/rationale.

Also looking for what would be a decent selling price for the following:
- Asus Maximus V Extreme with most accessories and in box
- Asrock z77 OC Formula fresh from rma with all accessories and in box
- Asus Rampage IV Black Edition/AC fresh from rma with all accessories and in box
- MSI z97 XPower AC covered in LET with all accessories and in box

ALSO....anyone know the best/easiest way to remove conformal from a motherboard? Have a dead rampage iv extreme but asus refuses to repair it due to the conformal. Thinking of heating it up with a blow dryer then going at the board with a toothbrush. Is there a better way to do this?

tia!
 
6 of one, half dozen of the other on the MVE and OCF.

Pricing, I go between 50-66% of new cost.

Conformal.. I never removed it. Not sure you can. Once I conformal a board, I know I blew my warranty... you should get in that mindset, unless the board comes with it (one/two of the ASRock OC Formulas)
 
I would sell these most expensive :) ( if there is any price difference worth to mention ).
X79 boards keep good price, expecially these top series. I literally replaced X79 board to X99 1:1. Almost the same with 4930K and 5820K. I had to add ~$100 to move from IB-E to HW-E on whole rig.
 
Thanks guys!

Yeah...will try to get the conformal off the other board. Been googlin' a bit...seems there are a couple solvents that look like they should do the trick. That said, will probably just try lifting/peeling/etc (gently, of course) to see how that goes before considering solvent.
 
I'm honestly not sure how successful you will be with the conformal removal. Best of luck with that, but I would be leery about using any sort of solvents on a motherboard.
 
Janus67 said:
but I would be leery about using any sort of solvents on a motherboard.
Click to expand...
Absolutely! If it takes away the conformal, it will take away the motherboard.

@ FS - Hence why I said:
Conformal.. I never removed it. Not sure you can. Once I conformal a board, I know I blew my warranty... you should get in that mindset, unless the board comes with it (one/two of the ASRock OC Formulas)
Click to expand...
 
Thanks guys. It's definitely worth a shot as the board is dead and useless atm. Before shipping it off to Asus, sent it to TT who couldn't find anything wrong and had no luck getting it to post.

Found some content on removing silicone-based conformal from pcbs/mobos here and here .

Will try heat, gentle scraping and peeling first but if that fails may go ahead and try out dynasolve 190. The description reads "Dynasolve 190 is used in the electronics industry for removing urethane and silicone conformal coatings from printed circuit boards and other components."
 
Will do! Better A for effort than A for a****le ;P

Update: Maybe this conformal coating remover pen would do it. It's from the same company as the conformal used on the board.

Update2: Better yet...if it comes down to it, probably just buy a full can of the stuff. $12 for 10ml (0.33 ounces) or $35 for 16 ounces.
 
Last edited:
Tried gently scraping last night. The conformal pretty much comes off with a little pressure but no way to peel sections off. Removing it this way would be an extraordinarily long, tedious process.

Since the board's currently bricked, going to go ahead and try the solvent approach. With work, travel, etc...it'll be a couple/few weeks before I get to try it out but will be sure to report back with whatever results.

If I had a big enough container (we don't have a baking dish or anything big enough to fit the board)....I'd probably just immerse the entire board in the solvent and let it sit for a few days then give it a run in the dishwasher. Thinking/imagining this would be the best route and will give that a try if the first method doesn't work right.

We'll see.
 
I run a company (I'm the COO) and we have a large PCB assembly floor where we make (and conformal coat) our boards.

The chemicals don't do squat to take off the coat (and they are VERY flammable...must be stored properly...very low flash temperature).

The best way that we have found to remove the coat is with heat. If it's a small area or IC, we'll just use a soldering iron to heat up the coat/IC/board. If it's a large area, we will use a heat gun. You score the coat around the area you want to remove with a sharp tool (exacto knife), and then heat the area as described above.

It sounds easy, but it's an art!

Good luck!
 
Thanks JrClocker!

Hmmmm....bummer :( Don't have a heat gun...think a blow dryer might work? Yeah...saw the flashpoint on the solvent is 100F (and it's super noxious). It's a really thin coat but it covers the entire top and bottom of the board.

Does your firm, by any chance, do conformal removal jobs? If so...how much would something like that cost?
 
Don't have a heat gun...think a blow dryer might work?
Click to expand...

Won't get hot enough. You can order a heat gun online for pretty cheap. If you use a soldering iron, it stinks and destroys the tip.

Pealing it away without the heat is not a good idea. It can lift up the topside soldermask and/or traces.


Yeah...saw the flashpoint on the solvent is 100F (and it's super noxious).
Click to expand...

The chemicals are very dangerous, but the heat gun approach works a lot better.


Does your firm, by any chance, do conformal removal jobs? If so...how much would something like that cost?
Click to expand...

No we don't. If we did, it would be cheaper to buy a new board! :D
 
Thanks again JrClocker!

Wow...heat guns are definitely cheap! There are a bunch of 1,500 watt, dual temp ones for under $17 including shipping. Any recommendations or are they all about the same?

Yeah...figured pricing would be a small fortune to hire someone to do the job but figured it was worth asking.
 
1500 W should do the job.

The difference in price is how long it will last (i.e. the quality of the heating element and blower.) You can extend the life of the heat gun by remembering to put it on "cool" after you are done to cool off the heating element.

You should definitely practice on a junk board before going after the expensive ones.

Public Service Message #1: Be careful with the heat, it will de-solder components if you get it hot enough.
Public Service Message #2: Just remember which end is the hot end! :screwy:
Public Service Message #3: Do not use as a hair dryer :)
 
Thanks again man...really appreciate your guidance!

Ordered a heat gun. Will conformal a dead, cheap, pos board and try that before going after the mve.

Will be sure to update here with results...good, bad or ugly

PS- Love your public service messages!
 
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