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WATERCOOL-Jakob said:But if you ever feel like you need something, just write a PM, maybe I can arrange something.
Btw, didn't read the entire thread, but: what's with the bucket, man? What is the plan for that? Looking very weird...
...Of course you'll want to prep your board for sub-zero.
No Ven here. I've been hunting for 30 years and for the first time I was unable to recover a deer I shot. It's very disheartening to say the least. More range time is eminent in my future.
This is how Funsoul does it. I do it very similarly too.
I'll look and see if I can find some more, but there's a crap ton of threads and posts if you do the search.
Yeah, I saw that! I thought you were the original Vince of the shamwow mobo!!?? LOL I doubt I'm the first to use it. I did come up with the idea on my own, but I'm sure others did before me too. It's just a great absorbing product with the added feature of insulating too.
I'm definately going that set-up..
I guess to ask a particular question, is recommends for the water proofing:
-Regardless of product, do you have to clean the board every time? Absolutely not. My AM2 set-up is for benching only and its stays prepped.
-The spray-on stuff, especially this clear acrylic lacquer approach I have seen, seems pretty permanent? It is
-Are there permanent (well at least semi-permanent) coatings? I would consider LET (Liquid Electrical Tape) Semi-Permanent in that it will stay there as long as you want but can easily be removed.
FS says "dragon skin", that same company sells all kinds 'o stuff? I have inquired which dragon skin product...
Anyway, got a few to think about it, don't think I am running this Hero VII rig right now anyway... I haven't tried it yet. Sadly it's been nearly a year since my last serious benching session. I really need to get back into it.
Thanks for feedback, much appreciated...
Still looking for a lead on a temp sensor... anyone I don't use a temp sensor in my loop which is why I haven't replied. IIRC This is the meter I use for DICE/LN2 Pot.
Cheers
Thanks for that, I was asking about that thread a few posts agoI couldn't find it, duur! Need to review it...Lochekey said:As Blaylock said the LET works pretty well and comes of pretty easy. Check out the thread here for my first attempt at application.
Looking good Mr. Hack!
For that reset button I would tape up the button but not the exposed leads. This way they get a good coat of clear enamel on them. Another idea would be to melt some hot glue in there after the clear just to fill in the gaps. No air no moisture. Yeah, cool. I was thinking they needed covering.I need a hot glue gun anyway...
If you plan on using both the glaze and the clear enamel I would seriously consider trying it out on a test board first and make sure there is not a negative chemical reaction between the two. I know you can use LET over clear lacquer because that's what's on my AM2 board but not sure about the other combo. Just a suggestion.-board"hmm, yeah good idea. No "test" board available unless you mean "card-board", har... I was planning on using the LET "under" the coating..?
As an intelligent man I'm sure you know this but thought it worth mentioning, once you coat this board the chance for a successful RMA is essentially zero. I hope you tested it out before hand just to make sure everything is on the up and up. This board will live until it dies a glorious sparky death! Yeah. It posted up just fine. That's as far as I went... If some remember, this is my 3rd board. The first one went all sparky on me and it was a 30 day return to vendor...
Exciting times these are!!!
What else would you have expected from the SwartHack...SP said:Hmmm interesting approach Swart.
See updated pics, "Take the top off" ???? top of what off of what???Lochekey said:I would worry about covering the vrms and pch. I would take the top off at least before coating everything.