Sabertooth 990fx//FX 8350//Custom Loop Help

DNRDustin said:

The fittings I plan to get;
I have no clue yet... I want to go hardline but could use some guidance. Koolance does not use a standard thread, correct? And this could cause some compatibility issues?

The tubing I plan to get;
I have no clue yet... I want to go hardline but could use some guidance. Koolance does not use a standard thread, correct? And this could cause some compatibility issues?

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Koolance fittings use imperial measurements. They are standard to most tubing. But you do not want to mix different brands of fittings, with different brands of tubing. Normally if you are going to use Koolance fittings, you would want to use koolance "Recommended" tubing.
Example: I use 1/2" (13mm) ID x 3/4" (19mm) OD tubing for soft tubing. So if I were to use koolance, I would use this tubing.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/kool...c-1ft-30-5cm-id-13mm-1-2in-od-19mm-3-4in.html
And for the fittings, I would use these compression fittings
http://www.performance-pcs.com/fitting-single-compression-for-13mm-x-19mm-1-2in-x-3-4in-black.html
This is just an example, you do not have to go these parts, but its a good representation of what you should do when it comes to fittings/tubing. And when it comes to Hard-Line. You want to go a smaller ID x OD like 3/8" (10mm) ID x 1/2" (13mm) OD. It is cleaner looking, and very good for tight bends. For example, if you have a Radiator on top, in the back (Using the 120mm OR 140mm Exhaust Fan), and then one in the front. If you are not using a Case Labs case, or the Corsair 900D, You will need the smaller OD tubing to get it into those super tight bends from the exhaust radiator to the NB, or from the VRM to the Radiator, or vice versa. I hope this helps you understand what you need to get. I personally would get 2 pumps, once you go past 3 blocks, and more than 2 radiators. Not really for head pressure, more for redundancy. If one fails, your whole system won't go with it.


This is my first Hard-Line build, I just started it a couple days ago, i had 5 x 500mm tubing and used them all, and still need 1 more connection. I messed up a lot by re-heating, and trying to re-bend a tube I already bent. IT WILL NOT WORK. It folds onto itself and rips.

DNRDustin said:

My understanding is that upping the CPU/nb really helps these fx chips stability. Currently I'm [email protected]. Core 7 is the weak link, always wanting more voltage. Maybe more CPU/nb would help? What voltage did you need at 3000mhz? On the other hand I've read cpu/nb and htt should be as close to ram speed as possible(16g vengeance pro @1866), or maybe that pertains to fsb oc stability?

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VRM/NB Waterblock doesnt ADD MHz by itself. What it allows you to do is increase the NB/CPU Ratio, i went from 200Mhz to 320Mhz, which increase my RAM to 2400Mhz from 1600Mhz, which is why I got the XSPC Universal RAM block. It isnt meant to OC the MB itself, but more to help the CPU and RAM more than anything, All while increasing the voltage into the Red.

Can anyone direct me to some schematic drawings, trying to compare the sabertooth 990fx vrm to that of the P8Z68.
Any thoughts on heatkiller products? Going to buy this if the measurements are the same.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-watercool-heatkiller-swx-a4-lt.html
I know this will mount up.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkiller-nsb-rev3-0-lt.html

And another thing, are two 45's better than one 90 degree bend?

Two 45's are better than a 90 yes.
That said, 90 degree bends/eblows are not nearly as bad as most think. My last loop had at least 6 90 degree elbows in it. Loop rand just fine

And don't bother watercooling the VRM and NB - save your money.

I have the EK Supremacy block you linked in your OP. It's a great block. Very very easy to install and it does a great job cooling. Very easy to disassemble to clean out too!

Silver_Pharaoh said:

And don't bother watercooling the VRM and NB - save your money.

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I have put a lot of money into my fx8350 build. Saving money went out the window when I decided to build on a dead chipset. Almost everything I've purchased will go into my next build though, so $40 on a vrm water block is inconsequential compared to the amount I'm about to put into my loop.

DNRDustin said:

I have put a lot of money into my fx8350 build. Saving money went out the window when I decided to build on a dead chipset. Almost everything I've purchased will go into my next build though, so $40 on a vrm water block is inconsequential compared to the amount I'm about to put into my loop.

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By all means, go for it. It'll look sweet wc'ing the NB and VRMs

Hehe, same here. Spent a fair amount of $$$ on this AMD build, but in the end I love it and I'm going to buy a larger rad and upgrade the CPU soon too.

Would love to see pics of the loop once you built it!

Well, I went for it. Hopefully it all works out.
01 x Koolance Radiator, 2x140mm, Copper (High Flow) HX-CU1402V
01 x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 280mm AC-14177
01 x EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM
01 x EK-Supremacy MX CPU Waterblock AMD - Acetal
01 x Watercool HEATKILLER® SW-X 80 DIY LT
01 x Watercool HEATKILLER® NSB Rev3.0 LT
10 x EK-HD Adapter 12/16mm - Black
02 x Koolance 16mm (5/8in) Rigid Tubing *Black*, G 1/4 BSPP
04 x EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 500mm/19.5"

Now the hard part - waiting for the parts!

I find that 2 45-degree fittings are worse than a single 90-degree fitting because you have double the chance of a leak from a bad o-ring or fitting. If you plan your loops path before you lay the tubing, you should be fine. The main problem people have with 90-degree fittings are that they put to much pressure on them and because most 90-degree fittings are held together by a single o-ring. If the fitting bends a little, it will leak.

rts2468 said:

I find that 2 45-degree fittings are worse than a single 90-degree fitting because you have double the chance of a leak from a bad o-ring or fitting. If you plan your loops path before you lay the tubing, you should be fine. The main problem people have with 90-degree fittings are that they put to much pressure on them and because most 90-degree fittings are held together by a single o-ring. If the fitting bends a little, it will leak.

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I was refering to bends in the acrylic tube. I'm not using any angled fittings. I like the look of hard angles, but will probably end up using rounded angles for my bends.