RTS-CCD REDLINE

RTS- Custom Computers & Desgin presents...

"RED LINE" Custom PC

Using PETG Tubing and Older parts, I wanted to make a decent gaming PC, but a better Multimedia PC. I play a lot of different games and will be upgrading to a new GPU soon. This is the first time using hard line tubing, and it is much more difficult than I thought it would be. I have learned quickly that once you make one bend, regardless of angle, IF AND ONLY IF you want to continue that same angle, and ONLY increase the angle. That is basically the only thing you can do after the first bend. If you try to bend it back straight or bend it to a different axis, it will; 1. Bubble up, 2. It will wrinkle up and cause the bend to fold on top of itself and rip. After reading this, and you only get one thing from this, it is DO NOT try to re-bend unless you really know what you are doing, YOUR BEST BET IS TO PROPERLY MEASURE TWICE AND BEND/CUT ONCE. It is the only way to have the perfect diameter is to not over heat or over bend.

ANY SUGGESTIONS OR ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRICATED. THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ THIS POST.

PC Parts:
MB: ASUS Crosshair V Formula
CPU: AMD FX-6300 @ 5.2GHz
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 16GB (4x4GB)
GPU: 2x EVGA GTX 470 SC @1350Mhz
PSU: Seasonic MI12 Bronze 850w Modular
SSD: (1) Corsair Force GT 120GB SATA III (2) Lite-On 128GB SATA III
HDD: (1) Seagate Barracuda 3TB SATA III (2) WD Green 2TB SATA II (3) WD Blue 1TB SATA II
Case: Cooler Master HAF 932 Full Tower

Water-Cooling Parts:
Reservoir: (1) Koolance 452X2 Dual 5.25'' Drive Bay Reservoir/Dual Pump Combo (2) Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Full Clear
Pump: 2x XSPC D5 Vario Pump
Tubing: Bitspower PETG 12mm OD
Fittings: (1) 16x Bitspower Deluxe White MultiLink Adapter (2) 2x EK-AF 90° Black Chrome (3) 1x EK-AF 45° Matte Black (4) 4x Alphacool 90° Revolvable Deep Black (5) 2x Bitspower 90° Rotary Matte Black (6) 3x EK-AF Extender 8mm F-F Matte Black (7) 2x EK-AF Extender 6mm M-M Matte Black (8) 1x Bitspower Extender M-F Matte Black (9) 1x Bitspower Extender M-M Matte Black (10) 2x Koolance Coupling Adapter M-M Chome (11) 1x Koolance 45° Swiveling
MB Block: EK-FB-ASUS-C5F Acetal+Nickel
CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm AMD
GPU Block: EK-FC470 GTX - Acetal+Nickel
RAM Block: XSPC Universal Memory Copper Waterblock with 4x RAM Side Plates


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Well done!

Did I miss the radiator? I see 3x 120mm in that white xstc up front. How are temperatures with that setup?

EarthDog said:

Well done!

Did I miss the radiator? I see 3x 120mm in that white xstc up front. How are temperatures with that setup?

Click to expand...

It's actually up top... lol
He's just trying to break our necks with pictures

THANK YOU ALL, I still have not completed the loop, I have 7 out 8 connections done. The only connection that is not complete is the 180-Degree fitting that came with the 452X2 Reservoir/Pump Combo, I just lost it in transit from either FL to AZ, or back AZ to FL. When I was in AZ, I had 2 loops (1st for the CPU,RAM,NB/VRM) (2nd for the GPU's). But when I wanted to change to Hard-Line. I wanted to go back to a single loop. And for some reason I misplaced the fitting, so I have to go get more tubing or get 2 EK-AF 90-degree fittings and a Bitspower Male-to-Male 12mm extender will do the same thing. Or I will make a custom 196-degree bends, then bend it back to have a spacing from OD to OD of 1.75" (Distance from Pump 1 Outlet and Pump 2 Inlet). But when it comes to temps, if the Push/Pull Config makes any difference from my last single loop setup, my CPU @ 5.2Ghz MAX is at 48c-to-52c under full load. And the GPUS at full load is at 58c-to-62c. Depending on the Room Temp. Right now in FL, with this awesome air temp I bet I wouldn't go over 45c on the CPU and 55c on the GPUS. I use to think 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD was the best tubing you can get, but then I saw the 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Hard-Line and I knew that was my next step. I do have to say, if you never have done Hard-Line or any type of tubing where you have to bend it, you HAVE TO MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONLY AFTER YOU 2ND GUESS YOURSELF 10 TIMES. : screwy: Any questions are greatly appreciated and advice, ALSO any constructive criticism would be great.

Thanks,
RTS
P.S. Here is a pic (I hope in the right rotation) of my setup till now, and also a pic of where I am stuck at.

Custom Sleeving and Pre-Fill Wiring

Here are a few pictures of the custom Red Sleeving and Heat-shrinking, It is a lot of fun and very relaxing. I am going to get more and hopefully do single sleeves for each wire, i think the tiny sleeving is way better looking than large diameter sleeving.






Here are a few pictures of my PT skills. Also I will upload a video of me filling it.

View attachment 171622
View attachment 171623

Heres a quick video of my loop. I give a brief summary of what happened. I had some leaks in the extenders and fittings, but nothing I couldn't handle.

here are some pics of the loop

to the custom water cooling world!

P.S. - Upside down pictures make me nauseous. lol

Very nicely done, however using colored fluids is frowned upon as the colored agents will break down in the heat and will gunk up the parts which may result in a damaged pump/blocks/res.

Example #1

Example #2

It's suggested to use only distilled water and PTH Nuke or Biocide. If you want color use colored tubing.

Aside from that, it's a nice setup. Good luck with it.

I have always used dyed coolants and never had any blockages. Mayhems coolant works perfectly all the time. I never understood why people shy away from dyes. I have never had problems. If anything the only thing that stains is the soft tubing turning yellow. I had purple dye in it and turned yellow, so it's clear that the coolant doesn't stain certain tubing. And this Bitspower tubing will not stain or fade.

I posted 2 examples why people "shy" away from dyes and it's well documented. I'm also one of those people.

As I stated, it's a nice setup and good luck with it.

It is well documented that bad coolants build up at high temps. If you get the right coolant and tubing. It will not build up. I am one of those people who have not have that issue, i treat my blocks and clean everything before hand and have silver coils in my loop. So maybe that has something to do with it.

I buy my coolant pre-made from the factory. If you use concentrates, and you use more concentrate than you are supposed to, you will gunk up the tubing as well as all the blocks.

GTXJackBauer said:

: P.S. - Upside down pictures make me nauseous. lol

Click to expand...

I took out most of the upside pics, I hope that helps.

rts2468 said:

I have always used dyed coolants and never had any blockages. Mayhems coolant works perfectly all the time. I never understood why people shy away from dyes. I have never had problems. If anything the only thing that stains is the soft tubing turning yellow. I had purple dye in it and turned yellow, so it's clear that the coolant doesn't stain certain tubing. And this Bitspower tubing will not stain or fade.

Click to expand...

Nice setup man!
Jealous of the 5.2Ghz on the FX 6300, mine can't touch that for daily clocks.
You've done well with hard tubing - it really is a one shot deal. Gotta get it right the first time. And I thought using PEX was bad lol

About the dyes, my 2 cents...
They look great for sure, I used Feser UV Blue, but after 3 weeks my water was crystal clear as if I never added dye... All the dye ended up in my rad which reduced the flow rates, and took 30 min to flush out. I'm not sure what to use the rest of the dye on since It's not going in my loop ever again. That one reason why most don't like dyes.

Either wat, as long as you clean the blocks and do the rad dance every few months you will be fine

rts2468 said:

I took out most of the upside pics, I hope that helps.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I think you could just rotate the images.

rts2468 said:

It is well documented that bad coolants build up at high temps. If you get the right coolant and tubing. It will not build up. I am one of those people who have not have that issue, i treat my blocks and clean everything before hand and have silver coils in my loop. So maybe that has something to do with it.

I buy my coolant pre-made from the factory. If you use concentrates, and you use more concentrate than you are supposed to, you will gunk up the tubing as well as all the blocks.

Click to expand...

1st off I don't use concentrates. I've been watercooling for over 12 years. This was my first review here . The dye in question was mayhem's. I tried all the other dyes/coolants which comes premixed and ready-to-use as countless other members here. So because we've all suffered the same fate of purdy colored water turned gunk, we don't know what we're doing? Um.....ok...as I stated before..good luck with that

all I can say is, NIZZZZZZZZZZZZZZE.

Thank you all for your words. To Nebulous, I am not saying you do not know what you are talking about. What I am saying is that I have never had my coolant seperate from the base XI liquid, that is all. All my liquids if kept at a proper flowrate, and no dead spots in the loop, would do just fine. Sometimes if there is a dead spot in the drive bay reservoir/pump, the metal flake from the Aurora Coolant would settle down there. When I saw that happen, I stopped using that type. But I have never seen the actually color fade or gunk or anything of that nature. I am not saying it has never happened to anyone, just not me.

Here are a few pictures of my setup, finished and the temps after running Prime95 (Running @ 4.8Ghz; Just "stock" speeds first stress test of new setup). The CPU never passed 46c, Coolant temps MAX'd out at 38c. GPU stayed at 45c, even when the CPU was 100% throttle. The MB is still at 38c. It seems all the blocks are balancing out.











Here is a Screenshot of my AIDA64 Senor Panel.

The loop does look very good with the pre-made coolant!

Thank you. I have been playing games all night, and I cannot believe that none of my temps went into the yellow. Yellow to me is any temp greater than (<) 45c for the CPU, < 35c for the MB, < 40c for the Coolant, < 55c for the GPU's, < 40c for the SSD's/HHD's. I cannot believe it sorta, 2x 470's in SLI plays any Direct X 11 or 12 No problem, it went from a GTX 770 4GB on air to these bad boys, and I have to say I only lost 20 FPS at the max, GTA V plays at 75fps, the 770 was at 80-90 depending on visuals.

EDIT: When I am talking about temps, or voltages or any type of sensor or OC stress test, I am using AIDA64 Extreme to look at those temps and use their sensor panel.