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What happens if that vacuum breaks catastrophically?which would require a full vacuum / 200 psi pressure vessel with crazy seals for the wires.
roger that... I believe you this time. ;-)
I'm still mulling over using R-410A, which would require a full vacuum / 200 psi pressure vessel with crazy seals for the wires.
Have fun getting the permits
Doesn't mean you'll find somewhere to sell the refrigerant and gauges to you
I dunno... A chilled water loop sounds a lot less expensive and less risky right about now eh?
I'd have one of the HVAC techs I work with help me charge the rig.
I'm thinking making wiring penetrations through the steel that won't leak refrigerant may be a show stopper.
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I guess I need to rename the project again. What do you think of "Widow Maker"?
It will have to be hard line with a brazed connection, most likely.
Also, where's your phase change going to happen? It needs to be a refrigerant loop of some sort as phase change is how refrigerant cools.
Careful with 410A... That crap needs some serious pressure just to cool stuff.
Personally, I'd look to use R134a but it's getting hard to find...
I like the lower boiling point of R-410A @ -48C, R-134A is -26C (Amazon- R-134a Cylinder - 30 lb. $97). R-410A is common in window A/C units where I'll be able to get the compressor and condenser coil easily/cheaply.
Yes the box design will need to be about 350 psi (@ 100F) to not blow a safety relief. This pressure is getting out of my comfort zone and may be moot, as I can't see any practical way to get the ports out of the box.