- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Well that usually means PCIe 3.0 speeds but looking on the egg, I can't find any Sandisk SSDs that are PCIe. Have a model number on that SSD?
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Whats enough for my build?
- Thread starter exisss
- Start date
Well that usually means PCIe 3.0 speeds but looking on the egg, I can't find any Sandisk SSDs that are PCIe. Have a model number on that SSD?
- Thread Starter
- #102
Name: SanDisk X400 1TB SSD M.2
The model #: SD8SN8U
Link: https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai...=&ved=0ahUKEwj24JjL4PjPAhVBLyYKHQo4BOMQwzwIFw
I: mine is the small one which is a tiny as well.
Q: What is the bigger size one? I just realized it (im assuming its same but diff connections?)
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Yup, that is a SATA III interface. At that size of space, its about twice the price for PCIe.
- Thread Starter
- #105
TF? so this thing is not even close to 6gbps?
So if i use this on my MB m.2 slot what speed would I get?
base on what you are saying SATA III is slower than PCIe 3.0?
to be honest with you im confused. I have no problem buying another SSD M.2 as long as its going to give me a good speed diff compare to this Sandisk X400 1tb M.2 SSD that i have bought.
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
SATA III is capped at 6Gbps that we see with regular SSDs or Mechanical drives. M.2 PCIe uses the lanes off of the actual PCIe lanes which results in speeds of up to 32Gbps, depending if you go with a 3.0 x4 capable drive versus the 6Gbps you'd get from SATA III.
If this is your MB (GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0), you have support for both M.2 PCIe and SATA so you're still in the clear. You just won't be getting the high performing speeds from PCIe.
I should also note, if you go with a M.2 PCIe drive, pay attention to your MB's manual and see which PE lanes might get disabled when installing the GPU(s) or any other add in card. On my MB, once I use the M.2 PCIe interface, PE 5 gets disabled or vise versa.
If this is your MB (GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0), you have support for both M.2 PCIe and SATA so you're still in the clear. You just won't be getting the high performing speeds from PCIe.
I should also note, if you go with a M.2 PCIe drive, pay attention to your MB's manual and see which PE lanes might get disabled when installing the GPU(s) or any other add in card. On my MB, once I use the M.2 PCIe interface, PE 5 gets disabled or vise versa.
- Thread Starter
- #107
You got me F'ed up for lil bit lol this whole time i was doing my research again from the scratch lol and i did learn new things tho
So since im going to use this "X400 M.2 1TB SSD" from sandisk and hook it up to M.2 slot on the motherboard I should be able to get the complete 6gbps right?
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
If that's your MB I linked then yes.
- Thread Starter
- #109
Thanks for your help. I think it doesn't worth going for 1TB PCIe SSD since the boot up difference is going to be 2-4 seconds only.
Just a quick update
1-Currently waiting on Fittings, Saw and hard tubes to arrive. once I have them in hands then the project will start.
2-Custom painting the Radiators and Fans is happening right now.
3-Monitor, Mouse and Keyboard just placed in order
- Thread Starter
- #110
IMPORTANT QUESTION
IMPORTANT QUESTION
Is it ok to boot up the computer and install all the drivers before installing the custom liquid cooling system?
Remember that my cpu and gpu are both gonna have waterblocks.
I can keep the fans on the gpu and then remove em for water loop installation BUT the cpu is going to have no fans or anything while i install the windows and drivers.. is not gonna hurt the cpu?
IMPORTANT QUESTION
Is it ok to boot up the computer and install all the drivers before installing the custom liquid cooling system?
Remember that my cpu and gpu are both gonna have waterblocks.
I can keep the fans on the gpu and then remove em for water loop installation BUT the cpu is going to have no fans or anything while i install the windows and drivers.. is not gonna hurt the cpu?
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2002
- Location
- The Empire State
You'll kill the cpu if it overheats, or it'll get into overtemp mode and shut itself off to prevent damage. That won't give you enough time to install anything. Don't you have the stock cooler to use in the mean time?
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2002
- Location
- The Empire State
Is your loop completed? You'll have to jump the psu to power just the pump and fill/bleed the system. You don't kneed to install anything at that time. You need to complete the cooling system first before you start firing up to install the os.
Can't fire up the rig without some sort of cooling.
Can't fire up the rig without some sort of cooling.
- Thread Starter
- #114
then what i will have to do if something in the system doesnt work probably and result in error? like a damaged cpu or gpu
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2002
- Location
- The Empire State
If you start it up without any type of cooling, you'll already have a dead cpu to begin with. Get a cheap heatsink for that 6700k and use onboard video.
- Thread Starter
- #116
God damm, tomorrow i suppose to get the fans, and that was the last thing i was waiting for to arrive lol not this heatsink.. but that was a good idea. it gotta be 1151? since im using z170x g7?
- Thread Starter
- #117
*** Just placed order https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G392ZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 7
i7 6700k
see if this fan is good to run the pc in order to
1-first time boot up
2-install all drivers
3-possibly install win updates and
Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 7
i7 6700k
see if this fan is good to run the pc in order to
1-first time boot up
2-install all drivers
3-possibly install win updates and
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2002
- Location
- The Empire State
Yup that will work. Won't be able to overclock, but it's not about that. It's about starting it up, making sure everything runs, install the os/drivers/updates so you'll have a functioning rig. Then you can start with finishing up the watercooling loop.
Look at it this way: You'll have a cheapo heatsink to use incase anything happens to go bad with your watercooling loop. Always good to have "insurance"
Look at it this way: You'll have a cheapo heatsink to use incase anything happens to go bad with your watercooling loop. Always good to have "insurance"
- Thread Starter
- #119
Yup that will work. Won't be able to overclock, but it's not about that. It's about starting it up, making sure everything runs, install the os/drivers/updates so you'll have a functioning rig. Then you can start with finishing up the watercooling loop.
Look at it this way: You'll have a cheapo heatsink to use incase anything happens to go bad with your watercooling loop. Always good to have "insurance"
real talk. i was thinking about returning it later but now that u saying this, its better to keep it.
one quick question i hope u know the answer, since the cpu and gpu not gonna have any fans connected to their ports, (after installing the water loop), do i have to do some stuff in bios or something? i have no idea and i never thought about it till just now!
and one more thing, my case has 2 fans in front (intakes) and 1 in back (exhaust), i got two radiators, 3 on one and 2 on other one. and i have bought a 5 inch screen fan controller. fan controller has 5 fans wires only lol
im going to have 3 fans on case and 5 on the radiators, thats total of 8 fans lol
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
1. You can test all the hardware and install everything on a ESD environment. You can have it on a cardboard and such.
2. Once you know everything is working and installed, you can than place them in the case.
3. You will fill the loop with only the pump installed for power via PSU and nothing else. You'll be filling, bleeding and than proceed with a 24hr leak test to make sure you have no leaks prior to powering everything on.
4. If you run out of fan ports for the rad fans on the controller, use the MB fan headers for the case fans.
5. You hope everything goes as planned and have a nice quiet and cooled rig.
2. Once you know everything is working and installed, you can than place them in the case.
3. You will fill the loop with only the pump installed for power via PSU and nothing else. You'll be filling, bleeding and than proceed with a 24hr leak test to make sure you have no leaks prior to powering everything on.
4. If you run out of fan ports for the rad fans on the controller, use the MB fan headers for the case fans.
5. You hope everything goes as planned and have a nice quiet and cooled rig.
