Custom setup under construction need advice on coolant and cooling gear. EXPERT!

I am presently building a completely custom rig from the ground up including designing my own case to my own specs.

The case is designed to have the board on a tray hanging from the ceiling of the case I.E a normal desktop case mounting but completely upside down and will be 60cm3 in size with side opening doors left and right and the mobo tray will be slide removable so that the motherboard can sit on top of the case to work on it.

I have done some water cooling before but it was with an off the shelf kit and not a very good one in this build I am going all out.

I will be cooling a 6900K with the system supplied using Aquacooling borosilicate glass 880ml reservoirs, two or three rads ( case is still in design stage and I am looking for those with the best cooling ability for the lowest flow restriction and a reasonable but not over the top FPI ratio )

I am also attempting to take into account the metals and coolant that I will be using in my system and here in lays the rub - I know that I want to attempt to keep the metals the same if possible and as galvanic-ally close to each other as possible and with that in view there is another rub which is the amount of conflicting information on the internet as to what type of water to use de ionized, distilled, UV disinfected yada yada yada. I know that De-ionized water will attempt to leach plasticizes from tubing and ions from blocks and other metal components to try and get back to being "ion neutral" for want of a better phrase.

So my questions are - is there an expert here that can advise me on these matters as what I am building is an extremely expensive $10K + rig.

Thanks in advance.

to OCFs!

That's one hell of a project you got going on here. Hope you share many images with us.

As for the liquids and tubing is concerned, I left the distilled water and silver coil to premix clear fluids. I actually just made the change a week ago to Aquacomputer clear pre-mix and use PrimoChill Advanced LRT tubing for some time now as it doesn't have any plasticize issues. You can do the same as I only need to annual drain and refill the system with a fresh batch of liquid. I have been doing complete tear downs annually for almost 5 years now but as exhausting that is, I never saw an issue other than the use of distilled water and silver kill coil because it would oxidize my copper blocks. Its fairly simple to clean but I could remove that from my life by paying a premium on pre-mixed liquid which I personally feel is worth it. If those that want to spend a few bucks on liquid and biocide want to go that route, they can but it can be problematic on nickle and need of cleaning nonetheless.

If you wiki de-ionized and distilled they are close to the same, same as good RO water. Just accomplished it in different ways. Need to read a bit more than the general wiki, but it's there. Whats funny is long ago I remember a argument that a few is two and a couple is three. Each definition in the dictionary referred to the other one.

UV disinfected has not had the 'hard water' ions removed that are in water. Well water, OMG, never use that.... that can cause buildup over a short time I bet. Remember the faucet or something like that had a stalagmite under it due to the 10 year drip? That's why we use more 'pure' water. UV disinfected is accomplished by our biocide etc..

Thanks for the response guys, I have finally settled on a waterblock I am going for the Watercool HEATKILLER IV PRO (INTEL processor) PURE COPPER and 3 x Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper 1 in passive mode ( no fans ) and two in active mode, still looking at what fans to use and still figuring out what pump - I do know that I want PWM control because my board supports it directly and I am still deciding if I want to add a filter to the system.

I also am going to add some form of valving so I can direct the water flow for input and output for easy cleaning.

Falloutboy said:

Thanks for the response guys, I have finally settled on a waterblock I am going for the Watercool HEATKILLER IV PRO (INTEL processor) PURE COPPER and 3 x Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper 1 in passive mode ( no fans ) and two in active mode, still looking at what fans to use and still figuring out what pump - I do know that I want PWM control because my board supports it directly and I am still deciding if I want to add a filter to the system.

I also am going to add some form of valving so I can direct the water flow for input and output for easy cleaning.

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Hello,

I would just like GTXJackBauer advised you to use pre-mix coolant i see you want to use Watercool Heatkiller IV pro cpu block. One of the representatives of Watercool actually recommends using pre mix or concentrate coolant from the company Innovatek in this case Innovatek Protect ready to go or concentrate. Judging from my research on various German WC forums Innovatek has many good reviews and it lasts for a long time before changing coolant up to 2 years. Most will tell their blocks looks like new when they decide to open it up for inspection. Innovatek uses strong anti corrosion because back then it was designed so it could be used with Aluminium parts.

http://www.webshop-innovatek.de/sho...ek-Protect-IP-Anwendungsmischung-1-Liter.html

http://www.webshop-innovatek.de/sho...ct/innovatek-Protect-IP-Konzentrat-250ml.html

Another vote on very good coolant (which i have personal experience with) is Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, Colorless
http://koolance.com/liq-702-liquid-coolant-bottle-high-performance-700ml-clear

And here is a link of my cpu block after 3.5 (secondary system) years without ever opening it up i only changed the coolant after 2 years! My cpu block looks like brand new and it was a nickel plated Koolance cpu block:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1606466/my-koolance-cpu-380i-after-3-years

I have read that Koolance uses its own distilled water and conducted long term testing on their wc parts. Not only my blocks where like new after 3.5 years but also all my fittings from Bitspower and Koolance looked spotless clean no green deposit on the threads or any discolor or crap. I was also surprised my Primochill Advanced LTR had no signs of any plasticizer whatsoever.

Other pre mix brands need to be changed after 1 year or less the above lasts for up to 2 or 3 years before changing is required. And i know it works. It primes the pump has all you need for anti corrosion and algae killers.

Hope this helps.
Good luck with your project!

I was just reading about that recently on how Innovatek has some of the longest lasting fluids in the market while everyone else is usually a year at the most. I personally just recently went with Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra - Clear for liquid and haven't looked back. My temps might have gone up about 1c-2c at the most overall since switching from pure distilled water but all is good. I will stay pre-mixed and might turn to Innovatek's 2 year fluid down the road when I run out of AQ's Ultra.

GTXJackBauer said:

I was just reading about that recently on how Innovatek has some of the longest lasting fluids in the market while everyone else is usually a year at the most. I personally just recently went with Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra - Clear for liquid and haven't looked back. My temps might have gone up about 1c-2c at the most overall since switching from pure distilled water but all is good. I will stay pre-mixed and might turn to Innovatek's 2 year fluid down the road when I run out of AQ's Ultra.

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Yeah 1c or 2c i dont really care you still get much lower temps with air cooling besides one of the main reasons for custom watercooling for me is silence no more jet engine...
If you have a hard time getting AQ' s ultra or Innovatek Protect you could check out Koolance clear pre mix which i really like. Its a bit expensive compared to others but as i can vouch they last a very long time more then 2 years and all is very clean and spotless. And this is what we want in a expensive WC loop.

LawShadow said:

Yeah 1c or 2c i dont really care you still get much lower temps with air cooling besides one of the main reasons for custom watercooling for me is silence no more jet engine...
If you have a hard time getting AQ' s ultra or Innovatek Protect you could check out Koolance clear pre mix which i really like. Its a bit expensive compared to others but as i can vouch they last a very long time more then 2 years and all is very clean and spotless. And this is what we want in a expensive WC loop.

Click to expand...

Don't you mean you get much lower temps with water cooling?

Falloutboy said:

Don't you mean you get much lower temps with water cooling?

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Yeah typo lol my bad