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GPU overheat causing system crash during load on custom water loop?

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I'm thinking the card might be on the way out.
a 290 should make 1050 with ease.
but do try another driver.
 
Yes. An older version.
Mining kills those cards. I would not be surprised at all for that to be on it's way out.
 
OK, well I've been wanting to upgrade for a good while now, and with GPU prices falling, this isn't the end of the world.
 
Last edited:
You never answered my question on temps. lol Could be temp related since that much rad is not enough for a setup like yours.
 
GTXJackBauer said:
You never answered my question on temps. lol Could be temp related since that much rad is not enough for a setup like yours.
Click to expand...

Oops, sorry. No those are max temps. Idle is 38c CPU/40c GPU reading from AIDA64 and GPU Z.

- - - Updated - - -

I think I got a REALLY good CPU. Runs 4.7GHZ on 1.22 volts no problem.
 
BoundByBlood said:
I've had this same issue and it was heat related for me as well so I'm willing to bet my last dollar that it is a heat issue for you as well.

I tried the clean driver reinstalls, hell I tried RMA'ing parts and nothing seemed to work...that is until I regarded it as a heat issue.

One thing which helped me is I went into the bios and for my Asus MB there is a fan control. I raised the CPU and chassis upper temp limits to 65°C respectively and that really helped decrease the frequency of the black screen with looping audio, but it was still happening for me infrequently.

Come to find out my liquid cooler is malfunctioning and my CPU is at 40°C while I sit here typing this, the only application I'm running is the web browser. My water block is a clear see through one and a few days ago I noticed droplets of moisture forming inside of it looking like condensation. This signifies to me air is getting inside of the block.

If you treat this like a heat related issue I'm sure you will find a solution.
Click to expand...

The more I test this, the more I think you're correct. I don't think this is a problem with the card. I've cranked the CPU OC way up and under-clocked the GPU. Lots of testing and no issues at all. I think though my cooling is sufficient for the areas where there are temp readings, there are other parts way overheating. Does this seem plausible?
 
one of the reasons to go to a very early driver with a 290 is that the early cards were so noisy that amd came out with drivers that allowed the cards to run hotter and lower the fan speeds to keep the noise down.
 
caddi daddi said:
one of the reasons to go to a very early driver with a 290 is that the early cards were so noisy that amd came out with drivers that allowed the cards to run hotter and lower the fan speeds to keep the noise down.
Click to expand...

Got it, thanks~ I'll test it with the earlier driver.

Question: If the memory/VRMs are overheating and causing this issue. Is there a chance that I installed the water block poorly? Or is it likely that it's just the rad/res/pump limitations? I bought a 980 Ti hybrid today, and I'd like to consider what the resale of my current GPU is worth.
 
yes, possible.

pull the side of the case off and point a box fam, or something at it.
 
Bageland2000 said:
So is it possible that the GPU is at 54c and the VRMs/memory are causing a crash?
Click to expand...

Yes Most Definitely that is a possibility!

You said initially you installed the block yourself and used thermal pads on the mem chips and thermal compound on the VRs? Correct?

Did you pull the block back off and check your contact of all the hot spots?

Now I know that is a pain to do, however, if you don't do it before putting it into service you do not know if everything is properly covered!

That bit of information is absolutely crucial knowledge to know before you ever overclock the card at all.

I know the procedure full well and got lazy years ago when I bought an EVGA GTX Titan Hydro Copper GPU, assuming on my part that EVGA would have had their best of the best fitting the water block to a $1,300.00+ graphics card.

I never overclock my graphics cards until I look under the hood, I pulled the water block and almost had a heart attack, the GPU die was only 75% covered with thermal compound and 2 of the memory chips were only partially covered with the thermal padding.

I'll never buy another EVGA Hydro Copper, EVER!

Even if you meticulously install the water block yourself once it is seated you need to unscrew it and pull it back off the card and check your contacting points and make sure every cooling point is making excellent contact so you know for sure everything under the water block is properly seated.

Only your GPU core has temperature sensing, if your memory is overheating you have no warning other than the crashes you are experiencing.

Edit: This is a general comment not meant directly to you OK.

It is amazing how many times the question arises regarding simply applying thermal compound, many ask do I spread it, do I use a pea size, or BB size, or lines, or an x, which is the best way?
It does not matter which method you use, what matters is did you pull the heat sink or water block and check the contact footprint to see if you had good coverage, Before you pushed the power button!

Do no assume anything!
 
Last edited:
Silver Surfer said:
Yes Most Definitely that is a possibility!

You said initially you installed the block yourself and used thermal pads on the mem chips and thermal compound on the VRs? Correct?

Did you pull the block back off and check your contact of all the hot spots?

Now I know that is a pain to do, however, if you don't do it before putting it into service you do not know if everything is properly covered!

That bit of information is absolutely crucial knowledge to know before you ever overclock the card at all.

I know the procedure full well and got lazy years ago when I bought an EVGA GTX Titan Hydro Copper GPU, assuming on my part that EVGA would have had their best of the best fitting the water block to a $1,300.00+ graphics card.

I never overclock my graphics cards until I look under the hood, I pulled the water block and almost had a heart attack, the GPU die was only 75% covered with thermal compound and 2 of the memory chips were only partially covered with the thermal padding.

I'll never buy another EVGA Hydro Copper, EVER!

Even if you meticulously install the water block yourself once it is seated you need to unscrew it and pull it back off the card and check your contacting points and make sure every cooling point is making excellent contact so you know for sure everything under the water block is properly seated.

Only your GPU core has temperature sensing, if your memory is overheating you have no warning other than the crashes you are experiencing.

Edit: This is a general comment not meant directly to you OK.

It is amazing how many times the question arises regarding simply applying thermal compound, many ask do I spread it, do I use a pea size, or BB size, or lines, or an x, which is the best way?
It does not matter which method you use, what matters is did you pull the heat sink or water block and check the contact footprint to see if you had good coverage, Before you pushed the power button!

Do no assume anything!
Click to expand...

This is a great reply, thanks. I purchased a 980 Ti hybrid and will be installing it Wednesday. When I take the 290 out, I'm going to do some surgery...
 
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