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  1. #1
    Registered surensm's Avatar
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    Feb 2017

    Messing with voltages makes the OC less stable and even causes BSOD.

    For starters, the computer is a fresh build from August of last year. It's rocking a 6700k in a Gigabyte G1 Gaming 6 motherboard, a GTX1080, and a G.Skill 3200mhz 16gb x1 ram stick, and a Corsair H100i GTX cooler. It's been nothing but headaches for me. This is my second 6700k, as the first one kicked the bucket for no apparent reason (came back to use the computer after about a week of not using it, powered it on, and 6 beeps of death).

    After replacing the CPU, I noticed that the computer wouldn't go past POST. I dialed the RAM frequency down, and problem was solved. So now that I have my newly warrantied G.Skill in there, the computer boots in XMP no problem.

    Here's the real issue- I can't keep a stable overclock of over 4.3 GHz. I left the V-Core setting in "Auto" mode, just to see how it would fare. At 4.4, the computer lasted for 3 hours and 30 something minutes in OCCT, and then threw an error. I figured that's fine, so I went and switched the voltage to manual, and set it to 1.375V (it was peaking at 1.37, so I figured the extra 0.005 will solve my problem). Nope, it now won't test for more than 5 seconds. When switched back to auto, it now lasts for maybe 10 minutes, sometimes less. Can it be that I have a faulty motherboard? I can probably still send it in for an RMA, since it hasn't been a year since buying it. Same story with Prime95. I tried stress testing on factory settings, and left it on for a couple of hours with no problems. I'm now stress testing on factory settings to see if it can go for 4 hours without errors. I'm in a bit of a bind here and can't help but feel like I'm not getting my money's worth. Also, I ran the OCCT test on factory BIOS settings with no issues for over 5 hours. The biggest annoyance is that my temps are more than fine, I wasn't even touching 70* at 1.385V and 4.5 ghz (i know, normally 1.385 is overkill for 4.5, but at the time it was the only way to keep it stable).

    The most recent BSOD was a SYSTEM_(something)_EXCEPTION after trying 4.5 GHz at 1.35V. I could really use the assistance.

  2. #2
    Senior Member trents's Avatar
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    Auto settings add voltage to little things you may not be aware of that just setting the core ratio and vcore to manual will not. You may need to add a little voltage to the system agent (memory controller) for instance to get it stable using 3200 mhz RAM.

    I suggest you try this. Leave everything on Auto except the overclocked core speed ratio (44x?)and the RAM frequency. Choose XMP for the RAM speed. Then go into Windows and take a look at the various voltage readings in this section while loading the CPU. Check it with HWMonitor non pro version and capture an image of it for later reference with Snipping tool.

    Then repeat the exercise with the CPU core voltage set to manual and 1.375. Pay particular attention to the changes in the section I have circled. I think you will see when the core voltage is set to Auto there are some other voltages that are supplemented with offsets that aren't when you have the vcore on Manual. This will give you some guidance for supplementing some of the secondary voltages.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    CPU: i5-6600k@4.7ghz
    Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro
    Cooler: Custom loop with Swiftech MCP50X pump, EK-Spremacy Evo block, Koolance 360x29mm 30 fins per in. radiator, 38x120mm 4000rpm Delta fans on Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme fan speed controller
    RAM: 2x8 gb Crucial 2400 Ballistic DDR4
    GPU: MSI Armor Rx 480 4 gb / 1080p Asus monitor
    Case: NZXT Source 530
    PSU: OCZ 750W
    Storage: Segate 480 gb SSD + 1x1tb spinner
    OS: Windows 10

    Jesus said, "I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father but through me." John 14:6

  3. #3
    Senior Member trents's Avatar
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    What about temps? What are you cooling the CPU with?
    CPU: i5-6600k@4.7ghz
    Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro
    Cooler: Custom loop with Swiftech MCP50X pump, EK-Spremacy Evo block, Koolance 360x29mm 30 fins per in. radiator, 38x120mm 4000rpm Delta fans on Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme fan speed controller
    RAM: 2x8 gb Crucial 2400 Ballistic DDR4
    GPU: MSI Armor Rx 480 4 gb / 1080p Asus monitor
    Case: NZXT Source 530
    PSU: OCZ 750W
    Storage: Segate 480 gb SSD + 1x1tb spinner
    OS: Windows 10

    Jesus said, "I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father but through me." John 14:6

  4. #4
    If your memory is doing fine I would not mess with the memory controller or memory. How well did the other CPU overclock in that motherboard?
    i5 6600K OC 4.5GHz
    Cooler Master Hyper 212
    Motherboard Gigabyte Z170-HD3
    G.SKILL Ripjaws v 16GB F4-3200C14D-16GVK XMP Speed 3200 CL 14-14-14-34
    EVGA Black Edition Superclocked GTX 1070

  5. #5
    Registered surensm's Avatar
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    Feb 2017
    Quote Originally Posted by trents View Post
    Auto settings add voltage to little things you may not be aware of that just setting the core ratio and vcore to manual will not. You may need to add a little voltage to the system agent (memory controller) for instance to get it stable using 3200 mhz RAM.

    I suggest you try this. Leave everything on Auto except the overclocked core speed ratio (44x?)and the RAM frequency. Choose XMP for the RAM speed. Then go into Windows and take a look at the various voltage readings in this section while loading the CPU. Check it with HWMonitor non pro version and capture an image of it for later reference with Snipping tool.

    Then repeat the exercise with the CPU core voltage set to manual and 1.375. Pay particular attention to the changes in the section I have circled. I think you will see when the core voltage is set to Auto there are some other voltages that are supplemented with offsets that aren't when you have the vcore on Manual. This will give you some guidance for supplementing some of the secondary voltages.
    Will try. I used the OTTC monitors when I did one of the initial tests (leave everything on Auto, set clock speed to 4.4 and set RAM to XMP), and the numbers were around 1.36-1.37, hence why I tried 1.375, but to no avail.

    Quote Originally Posted by trents View Post
    What about temps? What are you cooling the CPU with?
    Temps are fine, barely go above 68, occasionally peak at 75. I use the H100i GTX cooler by Corsair.

    Quote Originally Posted by wingman99 View Post
    If your memory is doing fine I would not mess with the memory controller or memory. How well did the other CPU overclock in that motherboard?
    As in leave in XMP? The other CPU wasn't much to write home about either, I never tried stress testing with Prime95 or OTTC at the time but I bet it would fail them as well. The best I ever got without crashing cinnebench was 4.8 GHz at 1.41 V, and even then it would BSOD occasionally. I kept it at 4.5 GHz and 1.385V iirc, and then dropped it to 4.4 just to be safe (1.375V).

  6. #6
    Registered surensm's Avatar
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    Feb 2017
    I got some suggestions from another site that the issue could possibly be with the RAM. One thing I failed to mention is that if I leave everything on Auto, and not even bother messing with the CPU multiplier, but I try and set my RAM to 3200MHz without selecting the XMP profile, it won't boot into Windows. It just requests to go back to optimal settings, due to a boot failure. The stick before this stayed at 3200 no problem when new. Could it be RAM AND Motherboard?
    CPU: i7-6700k
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170X G1 Gaming 6
    Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX
    RAM: 1x16 gb G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 DDR4
    GPU: Nvidia GEForce GTX1080
    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro
    PSU: Corsair RM850x
    Storage: Kingston Digital 120GB SSDNow V300
    Seagate 3TB BarraCuda
    OS: Windows 10

  7. #7
    Senior Member trents's Avatar
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    Centralia, WA
    Yes, it could be the RAM. Test it with Memtest86+.
    CPU: i5-6600k@4.7ghz
    Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro
    Cooler: Custom loop with Swiftech MCP50X pump, EK-Spremacy Evo block, Koolance 360x29mm 30 fins per in. radiator, 38x120mm 4000rpm Delta fans on Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme fan speed controller
    RAM: 2x8 gb Crucial 2400 Ballistic DDR4
    GPU: MSI Armor Rx 480 4 gb / 1080p Asus monitor
    Case: NZXT Source 530
    PSU: OCZ 750W
    Storage: Segate 480 gb SSD + 1x1tb spinner
    OS: Windows 10

    Jesus said, "I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father but through me." John 14:6

  8. #8
    Registered surensm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trents View Post
    Yes, it could be the RAM. Test it with Memtest86+.
    Will do, thank you sir. I'll post an update tomorrow when I get to test it.

    P.S. stole your signature style- really efficient.
    CPU: i7-6700k
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170X G1 Gaming 6
    Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX
    RAM: 1x16 gb G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 DDR4
    GPU: Nvidia GEForce GTX1080
    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro
    PSU: Corsair RM850x
    Storage: Kingston Digital 120GB SSDNow V300
    Seagate 3TB BarraCuda
    OS: Windows 10

  9. #9
    Senior Member trents's Avatar
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    Centralia, WA
    I think you need to move away from using so much "Auto" to overclock the CPU.
    CPU: i5-6600k@4.7ghz
    Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro
    Cooler: Custom loop with Swiftech MCP50X pump, EK-Spremacy Evo block, Koolance 360x29mm 30 fins per in. radiator, 38x120mm 4000rpm Delta fans on Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme fan speed controller
    RAM: 2x8 gb Crucial 2400 Ballistic DDR4
    GPU: MSI Armor Rx 480 4 gb / 1080p Asus monitor
    Case: NZXT Source 530
    PSU: OCZ 750W
    Storage: Segate 480 gb SSD + 1x1tb spinner
    OS: Windows 10

    Jesus said, "I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father but through me." John 14:6

  10. #10
    Registered surensm's Avatar
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    Feb 2017
    Quote Originally Posted by trents View Post
    I think you need to move away from using so much "Auto" to overclock the CPU.
    Right, the only reason I left it there was to see if the issue would get resolved. Normally I enter the voltages manually, but having such poor luck with stability tests, I figured might as well give it a try in Auto. I was and wasn't disappointed at the same time, if that makes sense.
    CPU: i7-6700k
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170X G1 Gaming 6
    Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX
    RAM: 1x16 gb G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 DDR4
    GPU: Nvidia GEForce GTX1080
    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro
    PSU: Corsair RM850x
    Storage: Kingston Digital 120GB SSDNow V300
    Seagate 3TB BarraCuda
    OS: Windows 10

  11. #11
    Senior Member trents's Avatar
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    Centralia, WA
    Okay. Every motherboard is different and some (like mine) are pretty quirky when it comes to implementing the OC settings.

    As I posted the other day in another thread, trying to predict what effect on voltages from any manual change in those parameters on my board is like trying to herd cats. It's very unpredictable.

    Asus has built in some behind the scenes offsets to this board's bios that I cannot control and that play havoc with voltages.

    On my board, using Offset mode plays havoc with stability even when the reporting software says voltages are high enough that they should give stability.

    Putting everything on Auto gives wonderful stability but uncomfortably and unnecessarily high voltages. I've tried manually setting the LLC but not with good results.

    Finally, I've settled on Manual for the core voltage and putting everything else (except XMP for the RAM) on Auto. That seems to give me the best results.

    As I said, Asus has built in some behind the scenes offsets that play havoc with my attempts to control most things manually. Whatever they've done in that regard seems to work pretty good so I've just acquiesced to it. Sounds like you are finding out the same.
    CPU: i5-6600k@4.7ghz
    Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro
    Cooler: Custom loop with Swiftech MCP50X pump, EK-Spremacy Evo block, Koolance 360x29mm 30 fins per in. radiator, 38x120mm 4000rpm Delta fans on Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme fan speed controller
    RAM: 2x8 gb Crucial 2400 Ballistic DDR4
    GPU: MSI Armor Rx 480 4 gb / 1080p Asus monitor
    Case: NZXT Source 530
    PSU: OCZ 750W
    Storage: Segate 480 gb SSD + 1x1tb spinner
    OS: Windows 10

    Jesus said, "I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father but through me." John 14:6

  12. #12
    Registered surensm's Avatar
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    Feb 2017
    Quote Originally Posted by trents View Post
    Okay. Every motherboard is different and some (like mine) are pretty quirky when it comes to implementing the OC settings.

    As I posted the other day in another thread, trying to predict what effect on voltages from any manual change in those parameters on my board is like trying to herd cats. It's very unpredictable.

    Asus has built in some behind the scenes offsets to this board's bios that I cannot control and that play havoc with voltages.

    On my board, using Offset mode plays havoc with stability even when the reporting software says voltages are high enough that they should give stability.

    Putting everything on Auto gives wonderful stability but uncomfortably and unnecessarily high voltages. I've tried manually setting the LLC but not with good results.

    Finally, I've settled on Manual for the core voltage and putting everything else (except XMP for the RAM) on Auto. That seems to give me the best results.

    As I said, Asus has built in some behind the scenes offsets that play havoc with my attempts to control most things manually. Whatever they've done in that regard seems to work pretty good so I've just acquiesced to it. Sounds like you are finding out the same.
    Very much so. I may be switching out to another board altogether if this one keeps disappointing. The new Z270 chipset is now out, and hopefully it will be backwards compatible with 6th gen processors (not sure why it wouldn't be, but who knows). Maybe I'll get that ROG board that just came out.
    CPU: i7-6700k
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170X G1 Gaming 6
    Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX
    RAM: 1x16 gb G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 DDR4
    GPU: Nvidia GEForce GTX1080
    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro
    PSU: Corsair RM850x
    Storage: Kingston Digital 120GB SSDNow V300
    Seagate 3TB BarraCuda
    OS: Windows 10

  13. #13
    Senior Member trents's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surensm View Post
    Will do, thank you sir. I'll post an update tomorrow when I get to test it.

    P.S. stole your signature style- really efficient.
    Never thought of it as efficient but thanks. They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by surensm View Post
    Very much so. I may be switching out to another board altogether if this one keeps disappointing. The new Z270 chipset is now out, and hopefully it will be backwards compatible with 6th gen processors (not sure why it wouldn't be, but who knows). Maybe I'll get that ROG board that just came out.
    It should be backwardly compatible. Just check the manufacturer's CPU support list.
    CPU: i5-6600k@4.7ghz
    Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro
    Cooler: Custom loop with Swiftech MCP50X pump, EK-Spremacy Evo block, Koolance 360x29mm 30 fins per in. radiator, 38x120mm 4000rpm Delta fans on Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme fan speed controller
    RAM: 2x8 gb Crucial 2400 Ballistic DDR4
    GPU: MSI Armor Rx 480 4 gb / 1080p Asus monitor
    Case: NZXT Source 530
    PSU: OCZ 750W
    Storage: Segate 480 gb SSD + 1x1tb spinner
    OS: Windows 10

    Jesus said, "I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father but through me." John 14:6

  14. #14
    Registered surensm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trents View Post
    Never thought of it as efficient but thanks. They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

    - - - Updated - - -



    It should be backwardly compatible. Just check the manufacturer's CPU support list.
    Just did, we're good. It's in my newegg cart, but I'm on the fence. I have the Maximus Hero in there, as I'm not planning to do a custom loop to take advantage of a Formula, and I don't need the additional Wi-Fi bundle in the Apex. The problem is, it's more of a want, not a need. Not yet. Maybe I'll give the G1 a month or so, see if I can figure it out. My thought process is, if I'm going to go through the trouble of replacing a motherboard, I might as well switch out to the newer chipset. Maybe even warranty the original unit and sell the new replacement, or just keep it as a spare.
    CPU: i7-6700k
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170X G1 Gaming 6
    Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX
    RAM: 1x16 gb G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 DDR4
    GPU: Nvidia GEForce GTX1080
    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro
    PSU: Corsair RM850x
    Storage: Kingston Digital 120GB SSDNow V300
    Seagate 3TB BarraCuda
    OS: Windows 10

  15. #15
    Senior Member trents's Avatar
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    IMO, keeping it as a spare may save your bacon someday. Also, there are so many people who join this forum who have only one of anything in their computer and when it comes time to troubleshoot they have no parts to swap out to test different possibilities of what might be bad.
    CPU: i5-6600k@4.7ghz
    Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro
    Cooler: Custom loop with Swiftech MCP50X pump, EK-Spremacy Evo block, Koolance 360x29mm 30 fins per in. radiator, 38x120mm 4000rpm Delta fans on Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme fan speed controller
    RAM: 2x8 gb Crucial 2400 Ballistic DDR4
    GPU: MSI Armor Rx 480 4 gb / 1080p Asus monitor
    Case: NZXT Source 530
    PSU: OCZ 750W
    Storage: Segate 480 gb SSD + 1x1tb spinner
    OS: Windows 10

    Jesus said, "I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father but through me." John 14:6

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by surensm View Post
    I got some suggestions from another site that the issue could possibly be with the RAM. One thing I failed to mention is that if I leave everything on Auto, and not even bother messing with the CPU multiplier, but I try and set my RAM to 3200MHz without selecting the XMP profile, it won't boot into Windows. It just requests to go back to optimal settings, due to a boot failure. The stick before this stayed at 3200 no problem when new. Could it be RAM AND Motherboard?
    If the ram works well in XMP just leave it at that setting. I have to use XMP also otherwise if I set Bios manually the PC won't boot.
    i5 6600K OC 4.5GHz
    Cooler Master Hyper 212
    Motherboard Gigabyte Z170-HD3
    G.SKILL Ripjaws v 16GB F4-3200C14D-16GVK XMP Speed 3200 CL 14-14-14-34
    EVGA Black Edition Superclocked GTX 1070

  17. #17
    Registered surensm's Avatar
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    Feb 2017
    Quote Originally Posted by trents View Post
    IMO, keeping it as a spare may save your bacon someday. Also, there are so many people who join this forum who have only one of anything in their computer and when it comes time to troubleshoot they have no parts to swap out to test different possibilities of what might be bad.
    I'll hold off for now and just troubleshoot the hardware I have atm. Other hobbies are taking precedent this year on spending, so if I don't have to, I'd rather not spend the money. I'll start off with the basics and just do more testing and report on how that all goes. I'm sure there is also a lot to learn on my end as far as the advanced side of stabilizing an overclock is concerned.

    Quote Originally Posted by wingman99 View Post
    If the ram works well in XMP just leave it at that setting. I have to use XMP also otherwise if I set Bios manually the PC won't boot.
    Did you ever wonder that maybe you have a faulty RAM? I noticed that you too use Ripjaws V 16GB F4. It could be a manufacturing issue.
    CPU: i7-6700k
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170X G1 Gaming 6
    Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX
    RAM: 1x16 gb G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 DDR4
    GPU: Nvidia GEForce GTX1080
    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro
    PSU: Corsair RM850x
    Storage: Kingston Digital 120GB SSDNow V300
    Seagate 3TB BarraCuda
    OS: Windows 10

  18. #18
    Senior Member trents's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Centralia, WA
    Did you ever do the Memtes86+ test?
    CPU: i5-6600k@4.7ghz
    Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro
    Cooler: Custom loop with Swiftech MCP50X pump, EK-Spremacy Evo block, Koolance 360x29mm 30 fins per in. radiator, 38x120mm 4000rpm Delta fans on Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme fan speed controller
    RAM: 2x8 gb Crucial 2400 Ballistic DDR4
    GPU: MSI Armor Rx 480 4 gb / 1080p Asus monitor
    Case: NZXT Source 530
    PSU: OCZ 750W
    Storage: Segate 480 gb SSD + 1x1tb spinner
    OS: Windows 10

    Jesus said, "I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father but through me." John 14:6

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by surensm View Post
    I'll hold off for now and just troubleshoot the hardware I have atm. Other hobbies are taking precedent this year on spending, so if I don't have to, I'd rather not spend the money. I'll start off with the basics and just do more testing and report on how that all goes. I'm sure there is also a lot to learn on my end as far as the advanced side of stabilizing an overclock is concerned.
    I think your just having bad luck with the Processor. All I did for overclocking to 4.5GHz is increase the multiplier to 45 and set the Dynamic DVID to +0.075v left all other settings on Auto. I did not have good luck on my other CPU, could not get it completely stable at 4.5GHz.
    i5 6600K OC 4.5GHz
    Cooler Master Hyper 212
    Motherboard Gigabyte Z170-HD3
    G.SKILL Ripjaws v 16GB F4-3200C14D-16GVK XMP Speed 3200 CL 14-14-14-34
    EVGA Black Edition Superclocked GTX 1070

  20. #20
    Registered surensm's Avatar
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    Feb 2017
    Quote Originally Posted by trents View Post
    Did you ever do the Memtes86+ test?
    Not yet, won't be back home until tomorrow.

    Quote Originally Posted by wingman99 View Post
    I think your just having bad luck with the Processor. All I did for overclocking to 4.5GHz is increase the multiplier to 45 and set the Dynamic DVID to +0.075v left all other settings on Auto. I did not have good luck on my other CPU, could not get it completely stable at 4.5GHz.
    Very possible, with my luck. I'll try and mess with DVID, but I think the setting in my BIOS was greyed out.
    CPU: i7-6700k
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170X G1 Gaming 6
    Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX
    RAM: 1x16 gb G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 DDR4
    GPU: Nvidia GEForce GTX1080
    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro
    PSU: Corsair RM850x
    Storage: Kingston Digital 120GB SSDNow V300
    Seagate 3TB BarraCuda
    OS: Windows 10

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