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New Build AGAIN

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Aerpelding

Registered
Joined
Jul 23, 2013
Location
Houston, TX
Well, tonight i destroyed my CPU and/or MB so after just over 3 years i'll be upgrading again...

The system I had is in my signature. I'm just going to be replacing the MB, CPU, and RAM. So, my new build will be as follows:

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600k
MotherBoard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270E Gaming
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 16GB
PSU: Corsair RMx RM750X

Case: Cooler Master HAF XM
Power: Corsair CMPSU-750TX
GPU: Asus ROG Strix GTX1070

What is everyone's opinions on the CPU/MB/RAM combo above? I built this machine originally in 2013 and hadn't put it to much use, and i just started getting into DOOM (i know i'm a little late). And now it's a huge paper weight sitting in my office until i get replacement parts. So, i'm eager to order everything to get back up and running.

*EDIT*
It seems that my power supply is bad based upon a tester i have that i hooked it up to. So i'll be adding a PSU. I'm looking at the Corsair RM750X also.
I'll try replacing the PSU first and see if it boots up, but i'm expecting the worst.
 
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I went cheaper with the Z87-A in my original build, and to be honest i was never real happy with it. Which is why i chose a higher quality/priced MB this time. What would you recommend on the MB side? I'm partial to Asus stuff, if you haven't noticed. lol
 
Well tell me what you need for features and what were you not happy with on the old motherboard?
 
it'll be used for gaming mostly, and OC. I got my 4670K stable at 4.2 but it seemed like OC was a little complicated with the Z87-A, and i started having issues with overclocking failed messages after it wouldn't post and having to power down and back up. But, that could have been due to the PSU.
 
All the Bios are similar on a giving brand on a overclocking series motherboard, you should of got some help in the forums for overclocking because that would not have been a PSU issue at 4.2Ghz, spending more money on a motherboard won't help for the lack of knowledge and experience.

My motherboard is easy to overclock at 4.5GHz the first try and it only cost $99.00. So you don't have to spend much on a motherboard with Intel to overclock to the max on air. The only thing motherboard manufactures advertise is features not overclocking with more expensive motherboards.

So you can save your self some money and purchase a budget motherboard that has the same 3 year warranty and quality as a more expensive motherboard.
 
It ran great at 4.2ghz for the entire time i had it. Up until a few months ago i started getting the random overclocking failed messages. It never once over heated. So, i don't know what the problem is. I ordered a digital PSU tester to see if my unit actually is bad. We'll see.

I was looking at the Asus Z270-A Prime but the price is only $30 less.
 
It is not uncommon for what was initially a (marginally) stable overclock to become less stable over time as components deteriorate with time or maybe ambient temperatures change. A little extra vcore often is the remedy.
 
i tried making adjustments, small ones each time and it would work for a few days and then i'd have problems again. As it sits today, i tested the PSU with a new tester and it's working fine but still no post. I'm taking the assumption that the CPU and/or MB is dead so i'll be upgrading to the system i laid out above.

The positive, i'll have a brand new slightly more powerful machine. The downside, it's going to cost me and i was hoping to not have to upgrade until the next architecture and when USB C was more mainstream. Oh well. Good Bye Haswell, it was fun! Hello Kaby Lake!
 
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i tried making adjustments, small ones each time and it would work for a few days and then i'd have problems again. As it sits today, i tested the PSU with a new tester and it's working fine but still no post. I'm taking the assumption that the CPU and/or MB is dead so i'll be upgrading to the system i laid out above.

The positive, i'll have a brand new slightly powerful machine. The downside, it's going to cost me and i was hoping to not have to upgrade until the next architecture and when USB C was more mainstream. Oh well. Good Bye Haswell, it was fun! Hello Kaby Lake!

Exactly how did you go about this? Using a multimeter (or any simple voltage reader) is not definitive unless the output is measured under load. There is a sticky in the PSU section dealing with how to do this with a multimeter.
 
Exactly how did you go about this? Using a multimeter (or any simple voltage reader) is not definitive unless the output is measured under load. There is a sticky in the PSU section dealing with how to do this with a multimeter.

I used the Coolmax PS-228.

Does the lights come on with a beep when you power on the PC, did you try clearing the CMOS?

There is no beep, if i turn it on the CPU light will stay on most of the time. However sometimes it will cycle, then cycle the RAM led, and get stuck on the VGA led.
I've tried clearing the cmos, i've removed the cmos battery left it out and tested it. Voltage is at 3.3v. Still the same outcome.
 
I'm partial to the I7 personally. A cheaper mobo with the I7 7700k.

I don't know the differences between the E, G, I Etc at the end, I'm rocking a z170 myself with the skylake I7.

I play around with Graphics design, so outside of gaming, I make use of the HT.
 
I used the Coolmax PS-228. Does it test under load condtions?



There is no beep, if i turn it on the CPU light will stay on most of the time. However sometimes it will cycle, then cycle the RAM led, and get stuck on the VGA led.
I've tried clearing the cmos, i've removed the cmos battery left it out and tested it. Voltage is at 3.3v. Still the same outcome.
 
I'm partial to the I7 personally. A cheaper mobo with the I7 7700k.

I don't know the differences between the E, G, I Etc at the end, I'm rocking a z170 myself with the skylake I7.

I play around with Graphics design, so outside of gaming, I make use of the HT.

The K means it's unlocked, which gives you access to overclocking. The i7 is a great processor, however games don't utilize HT and spending over $100 more on a CPU when i won't get any use out of it, doesn't make sense.

Does it test under load condtions?

I honestly don't know. I plugged in an older PSU tester that i believe puts a load on it, and it lit up a red "danger" LED. I've ordered a new PSU to see if it fixes my problems. Looking back on questions i asked this forum when i built the PC back in 2013, i was getting a CPU LED because of a bad power supply then. So, i'm crossing my fingers it'll boot up when the Corsair RMx RM750X shows up tomorrow.
 
Update... PSU arrived and i hooked up everything. It no longer sits on the CPU LED, it cycles through CPU, MEM, then hangs on VGA LED with no beep. Still no POST. Entire system has sat for about two days with no PSU plugged in so i know the CMOS is cleared. I'm at a loss. Based on previous experience with the CPU LED i believe the PSU was dying and it took out either the MB and/or CPU with it. I've tried to boot with and without the GPU installed, and i get the same result. VGA LED with no beep.

Unless anyone has any suggestions, it seems like it's dead and i'll be upgrading...
 
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