ASUS ROG MAXIMUS IX HERO with 6700k overclock?

JordanF75 said:

Thanks bud. Just got my ram and 960 evo today in the mail. So ill be upgrading my rig this weekend. Just gotta figure out how to use the samsung data migration so i can transfer my OS from my 850 evo to the 960 evo. I dont want to have to buy anopther windows 10 pro. I have the disc and its the full version but its installed on my 850 evo right now. Samsung said its pretty easy. I guess ill let you guys know how that goes as well since i will be using the 960 evo M.2 drive as my main boot/OS drive.

I will be using the XMP feature for RAM, wont be overclocking it. 3200mhz is fine with me. And Im not gonna OC my asus strix gtx 1080 either. Everyone ive asked so far sdaid only do it if youre into benchmarking, otherwise, you wont notice a difference in overclocking the gpu or the ram.

Btw, I shouldnt go over 1.4v while overclocking correct? I try to stay around 1.37-1.38 at the max. But the new mobo has more chokes and that means more stability for overclocking the cpu. Compared to the mobo i have now, i think the hero ix was a good choice for me and not too pricey. What do you think?

Thanks everyone,

Jordan

And Ill get back to you guys with my results and pics.

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The safe limit for Vcore is 1.44v 24/7. As far as phases on the ASUS ROG MAXIMUS IX HERO motherboard with Intel you are good to go with high overclocking at 5.0+ GHz, if the Chip can do it do to the quality. As far as being stable power with more phases a six phase is all that is needed for good overclocking on air/water. The phases use to be analog now Intel uses all Digital VRM on all motherboards for the changing clock speed ramping up and down fast with speed step 800Mhz to 4.5GHz.

wingman99 said:

The safe limit for Vcore is 1.44v 24/7. As far as phases on the ASUS ROG MAXIMUS IX HERO motherboard with Intel you are good to go with high overclocking at 5.0+ GHz, if the Chip can do it do to the quality. As far as being stable power with more phases a six phase is all that is needed for good overclocking on air/water. The phases use to be analog now Intel uses all Digital VRM on all motherboards for the changing clock speed ramping up and down fast with speed step 800Mhz to 4.5GHz.

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I wish i could get a 5ghz 6700k!!!! Some 7700k can achieve 5ghz, but some can only get to 4.8-4.9ghz. The average for the 6700k is 4.7-4.8 i believe. I'm at 4.6ghz. I guess well see if the new mobo and better cpu cooler will help that. Like i said, I have a $120 msi z170 sli plus mobo and corsair h55 120mm cpu cooler. Im gonna get at least a 240mm or 280mm AIO for the time being. Best buy has a sale for the h100i for only $93.99 right now. As does amazon. But i just saw that corsair upgraded their h110i and h115i coolers with rgb lighting on the cpu block, so maybe thats why the original ones are on sale.

heres a pic of my parts brand new unopened at the moment. Just so you guys know im not BSing. Gonna go get the cable mods real quick along with a new cpu cooler because this h55 is way too small and i want to try to get my 6700k to a stable 4.7ghz



And heres a pic of my current rig.



Yeah, I need to do some cable management which i will do now that i have a fully modular PSU, but the 750D has very little space between the actual chassis and the back panel so the wires are all squished back there and all over the place. I will spend some time on cable management for sure.

JordanF75 said:

I wish i could get a 5ghz 6700k!!!! Some 7700k can achieve 5ghz, but some can only get to 4.8-4.9ghz. The average for the 6700k is 4.7-4.8 i believe. I'm at 4.6ghz. I guess well see if the new mobo and better cpu cooler will help that. Like i said, I have a $120 msi z170 sli plus mobo and corsair h55 120mm cpu cooler. Im gonna get at least a 240mm or 280mm AIO for the time being. Best buy has a sale for the h100i for only $93.99 right now. As does amazon. But i just saw that corsair upgraded their h110i and h115i coolers with rgb lighting on the cpu block, so maybe thats why the original ones are on sale.

heres a pic of my parts brand new unopened at the moment. Just so you guys know im not BSing. Gonna go get the cable mods real quick along with a new cpu cooler because this h55 is way too small and i want to try to get my 6700k to a stable 4.7ghz

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I was just mentioning the potential of the motherboard. I hope you can get 100Hz more.

wingman99 said:

I was just mentioning the potential of the motherboard. I hope you can get 100Hz more.

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Oh yeah, definitely. And yeah, I hope so too. We'll see. 100mhz isnt something ill notice but if i can get it there without going over 1.4v, then ill do it. Fingers crossed

And btw, I hate the color of the noctua fans but they are some pretty bada$$ fans for rads. Now corsair and thermaltake have high static and high airflow fans. Usually its either high static or high airflow but now they have them both in 1. The thermaltake ring plus rgb fans are like $120+ for 3 120mm fans and a fan controller. Corsairs HP120 are cheaper but thermaltake's fans look better IMO.

JordanF75 said:

Oh yeah, definitely. And yeah, I hope so too. We'll see. 100mhz isnt something ill notice but if i can get it there without going over 1.4v, then ill do it. Fingers crossed

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What Vcore are you running now at 4.6GHz?

wingman99 said:

What Vcore are you running now at 4.6GHz?

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1.37v. I tried 1.360, 1.365 and when it gets to the login screen on windows 10, the blue screen apears saying theres a problem and also it wouldnt, a couple of cores and hyperthreads kept stopping when i ran prime 95 (latest version).

What about you to get 4.5ghz on your 6600k?

JordanF75 said:

1.37v. I tried 1.360, 1.365 and when it gets to the login screen on windows 10, the blue screen apears saying theres a problem and also it wouldnt, a couple of cores and hyperthreads kept stopping when i ran prime 95 (latest version).

What about you to get 4.5ghz on your 6600k?

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I use a safety margin for power fluctuations from the house and PSU, it will run at 1.312v and I use 1.332v at 4.5GHz.

their h110i and h115i coolers with rgb lighting on the cpu block

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My h100i had that, too. Still does, actually. LOL It's in another rig. All the colors of the rainbow in its RGB blingy goodness. If you can live with their sketchy software you can set temp curves for the lighting for different colors.

Alaric said:

My h100i had that, too. Still does, actually. LOL It's in another rig. All the colors of the rainbow in its RGB blingy goodness. If you can live with their sketchy software you can set temp curves for the lighting for different colors.

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It's not the Corsair Link Software? I like using the temp curve setting. That's what I have set on my Asus Strix Gtx1080 so its basically always green, and when i game, its yellowish, and when it's red, that means it's about to fry but it never goes there. That's a lie, the Asus Aura Software isnt that great either, so sometimes i see my GPU is red, and i have to open up ASUS AURA APP and hit the "Apply" button and it goes back to green, lol. When I game, it reaches 60 degrees celcius at the most, and I have the games on max settings which they call "Epic" in one of the main games I actually do play. I have no problems playing any games on max settings with my gpu, on a 1080p monitor. I want to get a 27"1440p ASUS 165hz 1ms gaming Monitor. 1440 is 2k, so im hoping the gtx1080 can handle it on max settings.

Yeah, Corsair Link is the one. It has a history of interesting bugs and glitches but nothing dangerous to the cooling properties that I'm aware of. I used t to set a color coded temp chart. It was handy playing with a FX chip, and just added bling.

wingman99 said:

I use a safety margin for power fluctuations from the house and PSU, it will run at 1.312v and I use 1.332v at 4.5GHz.

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Wow, thats awesome. 4.5ghz at only 1.332, very nice.

JordanF75 said:

Wow, thats awesome. 4.5ghz at only 1.332, very nice.

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Thanks, I consider mine to be a average chip that is how tried the first overclock at that voltage by looking at folks skylake Vcore averages at 4.5GHz.

When are you setting up your Rig?

wingman99 said:

Thanks, I consider mine to be a average chip that is how tried the first overclock at that voltage by looking at folks skylake Vcore averages at 4.5GHz.

When are you setting up your Rig?

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I consider mine on the lower end of CPUs, my 6700k. I had it at a stable 4.5ghz, and it took me a while and had to bring the volts up to get 4.6ghz. I was kinda surprised cause even on HardOC's review of the MSI Z170 SLI pPlus, he ended up with a 4.7ghz/2666mhz Ram overclock, so even with a low end board, he still got 4.7ghz. Maybe he had a bigger cooler, i dont remember, but i always saw that 6700k could hit 4.6-4.8ghz easily considering OC Genie can bring the 6700k to 4.4ghz at stock voltages.

JordanF75 said:

I consider mine on the lower end of CPUs, my 6700k. I had it at a stable 4.5ghz, and it took me a while and had to bring the volts up to get 4.6ghz. I was kinda surprised cause even on HardOC's review of the MSI Z170 SLI pPlus, he ended up with a 4.7ghz/2666mhz Ram overclock, so even with a low end board, he still got 4.7ghz. Maybe he had a bigger cooler, i dont remember, but i always saw that 6700k could hit 4.6-4.8ghz easily considering OC Genie can bring the 6700k to 4.4ghz at stock voltages.

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It is not about the motherboard when overclcoking on water with Intel, all the motherboard has to do is supply voltage to the CPU. The determining factor for overclocking is the CPU quality. I always use the lowest cost overclocking motherboards for 22 years and never had a problem with Vcore. I know how the VRM electronics work, knowledge is very important deciphering advertising and false information.

wingman99 said:

It is not about the motherboard when overclcoking on water with Intel, all the motherboard has to do is supply voltage to the CPU. The determining factor for overclocking is the CPU quality. I always use the lowest cost overclocking motherboards for 22 years and never had a problem with Vcore. I know how the VRM electronics work, knowledge is very important deciphering advertising and false information.

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I appreciate your knowledge bud. Sounds like youve got plenty of experience overclocking.

I know in the end it does come down to the CPU. Would you consider my board an overclocking board, th MSI z170 sli plus? Most reviews just say the same thing that ive said, that its just a budget friendly board and it has plent of room to support dual 1080s, and very cheap, was $140, around $120 or less now. I know all boards that start with Z in Z170 are overclocking boards, but from reviews, some people get a little more with a better board. Im not saying go out and get the $500 asus extreme viii or gigabbyte G1 z170, but i would class my current mobo on the low end, just my opinion and also very hard to fit an M.2 drive since it only has 1 slot. I see that almost all the Z270s have at least 2 m.2 slots, some even have 3. I dont know why because it shows that M.2 drives in raid 0 mode barely increased the speed, so if it was up to dual 250gb m.2 drives or a single 500gb, they said the single 500gb M.2 nvme m.2 ssd would be better.

In my experience, overclocking the cpu just comes down to 2 things in bios, upping the multiplier and adjusting the voltages, but other things such as LLC can help keep the OC more stable, no? My MSI board doesnt allow me to adjust LLC. Just auto or mode 1.

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I just noticed your also using an air cooler for your 4.5ghz OC with your 6600k, very impressive. You don't think getting a liquid cooler, something good and not too pricey like a corsair h100i v2 would give you lower temps and allow you to get a higher overclock considering your voltage is only at 1.33, which gives you plenty of slack to adjust before reacxhing 1.4v?

JordanF75 said:

I appreciate your knowledge bud. Sounds like youve got plenty of experience overclocking.

I know in the end it does come down to the CPU. Would you consider my board an overclocking board, th MSI z170 sli plus? Most reviews just say the same thing that ive said, that its just a budget friendly board and it has plent of room to support dual 1080s, and very cheap, was $140, around $120 or less now. I know all boards that start with Z in Z170 are overclocking boards, but from reviews, some people get a little more with a better board. Im not saying go out and get the $500 asus extreme viii or gigabbyte G1 z170, but i would class my current mobo on the low end, just my opinion and also very hard to fit an M.2 drive since it only has 1 slot. I see that almost all the Z270s have at least 2 m.2 slots, some even have 3. I dont know why because it shows that M.2 drives in raid 0 mode barely increased the speed, so if it was up to dual 250gb m.2 drives or a single 500gb, they said the single 500gb M.2 nvme m.2 ssd would be better.

In my experience, overclocking the cpu just comes down to 2 things in bios, upping the multiplier and adjusting the voltages, but other things such as LLC can help keep the OC more stable, no? My MSI board doesnt allow me to adjust LLC. Just auto or mode 1.

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I just noticed your also using an air cooler for your 4.5ghz OC with your 6600k, very impressive. You don't think getting a liquid cooler, something good and not too pricey like a corsair h100i v2 would give you lower temps and allow you to get a higher overclock considering your voltage is only at 1.33, which gives you plenty of slack to adjust before reacxhing 1.4v?

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Thanks for the complement I have a electrical background also.

MSI z170 sli plus is a good overclocking motherboard for water. The LLC on your board is (Auto)=on or (mode 1)=off. LLC is the intel LL (load line), what it does when it is "on", is prevent the voltage from overshooting when there is CPU load to no load running up and down all the time.
You can turn it "off", it is just harder on the CPU electrically speaking. What counts when you overclock is the Vcore under load, folks can adjust the Vcore or bump up with LLC off or level up and down, you can do the same thing with LL off just not level up or down. LLC setting is no big deal, just remember it is the Vcore under load that counts and that can be attained six of one, half a dozen of the other.

I leave the Intel LL on because I run my PC 7 hours a day, also the reason I run air cooler.

If you've ever overclocked a system, chances are that at some point or another you've had opportunity to become upset with your Vdroop "problem." Some users, confused as to why their system refuses to exactly match actual processor supply voltage to the value specified in BIOS, are quick to blame the quality their motherboard; still others find fault with the difference noted between their board's idle and full-load processor supply voltages. Actually, load line droop (Vdroop) is an inherent part of any Intel power delivery design specification and serves an important role in maintaining system stability. In most cases, comments regarding unacceptable power delivery performance are completely unfounded. To make matters worse, unjustified negative consumer perception surrounding this often misunderstood design feature eventually forced a few motherboard manufacturers to respond to enthusiasts' demands for action by adding an option in their BIOS that effectively disables this important function. http://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/5

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A well designed VRM can help with overclocking a little I've seen 100MHz increase when you are at a wall with a CPU. A good VRM will have low voltage ripple so you can use less Vcore for desired voltage. The problem with that is you can't tell what board has the best VRM and the review sites don't test the budget boards much and compare with the same CPU like they use to. Also motherboard companies don't advertise the VRM specialty's anymore because there has been no change in tech.

Here is a site on Introduction and How the VRM works or (PWM) Link: http://sinhardware.com/index.php/vrm-articles/82-vrm-guide

Oh ok, I'm starting to understand that a little better now that youve basically cut it down and simplified it. I kept both the cpu loadline and cpu GT loadline on auto on my rig. Didnt want to mess with a setting that i didnt really understand too much. I do know that it has something to do with vdroop or voltage drop, thats what someone told me who had the same board.

I remember overclocking my q6600 on a gigabyte g33m dsr2 lga775 board. all i had to do was adjust the multiplier and slowly up the vcore til i hit the windows screen, then adjust it again and slowly go up the voltages 1 at a time til it passed prime95 for at least 3 days straight.

My PC is on for about at least 5-6 hours a day, and on sleep for the rest. Even after work when im relaxing, ill have the tv on and my pc on at the same time. Bad habit, lol.

JordanF75 said:

Oh ok, I'm starting to understand that a little better now that youve basically cut it down and simplified it. I kept both the cpu loadline and cpu GT loadline on auto on my rig. Didnt want to mess with a setting that i didnt really understand too much. I do know that it has something to do with vdroop or voltage drop, thats what someone told me who had the same board.

I remember overclocking my q6600 on a gigabyte g33m dsr2 lga775 board. all i had to do was adjust the multiplier and slowly up the vcore til i hit the windows screen, then adjust it again and slowly go up the voltages 1 at a time til it passed prime95 for at least 3 days straight.

My PC is on for about at least 5-6 hours a day, and on sleep for the rest. Even after work when im relaxing, ill have the tv on and my pc on at the same time. Bad habit, lol.

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They way you overclocked your Processor is just fine. It is suppose to be simple for a mild overclock on water, Vcore increase just works, it's really the only thing you can do for unlocked CPU to overclock past Intel's specifications.

Yes I simplified it it above. Intels LL (Load line) causes Vdroop to save on CPU wear and tear from over volting when the load is going up and down. Some people think there is something wrong when they see the Voltage droop so motherboard manufactures mad a option to disable LL load line and some motherboards have load line calibration for stages of voltage droop. When folks do extreme benching they like to have no voltage variance load to no load, however if they did not use the LLC and left it on all they would have to do is subtract 0.020 from Vcore for the total Vcore under load.

For me I leave all my power savings options on Auto, then the CPU clocks down also the Vcore with light load or no load, so you can't even see the voltage droop, it is hidden because you can only see Vdroop at fixed Vcore with load to no load.

I Game and surf the net, watch TV and videos on my PC I have a 27" Samsung IPS monitor.

When are you setting up the new motherboard?

wingman99 said:

They way you overclocked your Processor is just fine. It is suppose to be simple for a mild overclock on water, Vcore increase just works, it's really the only thing you can do for unlocked CPU to overclock past Intel's specifications.

Yes I simplified it it above. Intels LL (Load line) causes Vdroop to save on CPU wear and tear from over volting when the load is going up and down. Some people think there is something wrong when they see the Voltage droop so motherboard manufactures mad a option to disable LL load line and some motherboards have load line calibration for stages of voltage droop. When folks do extreme benching they like to have no voltage variance load to no load, however if they did not use the LLC and left it on all they would have to do is subtract 0.020 from Vcore for the total Vcore under load.

For me I leave all my power savings options on Auto, then the CPU clocks down also the Vcore with light load or no load, so you can't even see the voltage droop, it is hidden because you can only see Vdroop at fixed Vcore with load to no load.

I Game and surf the net, watch TV and videos on my PC I have a 27" Samsung IPS monitor.

When are you setting up the new motherboard?

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Thanks bud, I appreciate the assurance that I overclocked my CPU properly.

Im all ready to go and upgrade my rig, can you point me in thee right direction or if you know, how i can transfer my Windows 10 Pro OS Full Version from my 850 evo ssd that im currently using to the new 960 evo? Thats the only reason why i havent started with the upgrade, because i dont know if i will need another windows which will cost about 100 bucks but since im using it on the same computer, i hear samsungs data migration should help but ive read the guides on samsung and i still am confused on how to transfer my OS. I prefer a clean install since my cutrent OS has all the MSI apps for my mobo and i wont need that so id prefer a clean instal and ill install the gpu driver again and the asus herp ix drivers and utilities. The only things i need are my pics and about 6-7 pdf files, the rest can be erased, i dont even care. And i can re download battle net and log in and get all my games back as well, so if you can help me out there, or if anyone knows how to go about doing so, please let me know. Ill contact Samsung in the morning and see if they can walk me through it.


Also, ive decided on either the corsair h110i v2 or a kraken x62 for the time being. I might just get the x61 because i can care lkess right now about the rgb lights on the cpu block. Any advice as to which is better. Or i can get the 360mm thermaltake 3.0 AIO for about the same price as well. A good AIO for 100-130 bucks is what im willling to spend for a cpu cooler for the time being. I dont neeed anything crazy like the kraken x62 rgb, i rather just get the non rgb x61. Function first, looks after. I figured you most people on here who overclock use liquid coolers so i figured this would be the best place to ask which is the best AIO cooler out right now or top 3?

Thank you everyone, I apprecciate all your help and advice. Great forum.

Windows 10 ties to the motherboard. You'll probably have a very hard time getting it activated with a new mobo, if you can at all. W10 is picky to the point that a different board of the same model will give it fits.