Hi,
Here are some homemade waterblocks.
The complete system inside the case. Pump (Eheim 1046) and radiator (heater core) are outside my computercase.
Detail of the hose.
This was a my second attempt at building a WC computer. The first one used the same waterblocks, but pvc tubing. I replaced the tubing because it would bend rather sharply and impede flow. The pvc tube would also fold on itself (the nice 'O' would become some sort of '8' (as seen through the tube)).
I didn't have that problem with these tubing. However, I will also scrap this in favor of yet another tubing method. The method shown on the foto's is too rigid, I have to measure the tubing very precisely to fit it all in one go. Later I discovered that my NB cooler was not pressed firmly enough to the chip.
So now I'm going to try to use some instant fittings from www.legris.com. They are made for compressed air, I hope they won't leak water.
Another problem I hope to solve is algea grow (brown color). I'll be using opage tubing now.
Some more foto's;
This is the CPU waterblock. Just a copper cap (35 mm) soldered on a 5 mm thick copper base. No pins inside (like surlyjoe's version). It is mounted with this plexiglas coverplate.
This is the NB waterblok. You can see I like those cap's . They are cheap and versitile. This is a 28 mm cap on a 3 mm thick base. Notice all the solder on the right mounting hole. This was because I made a mistake measuring the distance between the mounting holes. I had to saw the tab from the baseplate and reattach (solder) it at the correct place.
This is the video cooler. I lose one PCI slot. The base plate is 3 mm thick. Inside is a wall that is attached with a rivet to the top (see the small blob of solder almost at the top of the cap). The area that fits on the chip is composed of a baseplate, thick wall (left top) were pipes connect to, 1 mm thick copper sheet folded to make the rest of the top and a wall inside (to get the water all the way to the bottom of the cooler).
All these coolers will be scrapped because I find them to bulky (And I need another fitting on the video cooler). I think I can make the CPU cooler more efficient too.
Here is the new NB cooler. It still needs some cleaning and lapping...
Notice the 2 'circuler spots' in the second foto. This is because I have riveted a wall inside the 34 mm cap. The upper rivet was just the right size, the lower was a bit too short (thats the reason you see some solder there). I tested it with tap water (2 bar pressure), there were no leaks. It has a flowpath roughly the same surfacearea as the tubing. The baseplate is 1.4 mm thick. The hose I'll be using will be 8 mm id (50 mm2 as flowpath).
When I'll make the other blocks i'll make some step by step foto's so everybody can see exactly how to make one themselves (wait 1 a 2 weeks...).
All the 'homemade' blocks I see here all require a machine shop. Most people don't have that . The 3 most important items needed to make these blocks is a vise, a hand drill and a gas burner. No milling, no lathe needed and no drill press needed...
Meteor
Here are some homemade waterblocks.
The complete system inside the case. Pump (Eheim 1046) and radiator (heater core) are outside my computercase.
Detail of the hose.
This was a my second attempt at building a WC computer. The first one used the same waterblocks, but pvc tubing. I replaced the tubing because it would bend rather sharply and impede flow. The pvc tube would also fold on itself (the nice 'O' would become some sort of '8' (as seen through the tube)).
I didn't have that problem with these tubing. However, I will also scrap this in favor of yet another tubing method. The method shown on the foto's is too rigid, I have to measure the tubing very precisely to fit it all in one go. Later I discovered that my NB cooler was not pressed firmly enough to the chip.
So now I'm going to try to use some instant fittings from www.legris.com. They are made for compressed air, I hope they won't leak water.
Another problem I hope to solve is algea grow (brown color). I'll be using opage tubing now.
Some more foto's;
This is the CPU waterblock. Just a copper cap (35 mm) soldered on a 5 mm thick copper base. No pins inside (like surlyjoe's version). It is mounted with this plexiglas coverplate.
This is the NB waterblok. You can see I like those cap's . They are cheap and versitile. This is a 28 mm cap on a 3 mm thick base. Notice all the solder on the right mounting hole. This was because I made a mistake measuring the distance between the mounting holes. I had to saw the tab from the baseplate and reattach (solder) it at the correct place.
This is the video cooler. I lose one PCI slot. The base plate is 3 mm thick. Inside is a wall that is attached with a rivet to the top (see the small blob of solder almost at the top of the cap). The area that fits on the chip is composed of a baseplate, thick wall (left top) were pipes connect to, 1 mm thick copper sheet folded to make the rest of the top and a wall inside (to get the water all the way to the bottom of the cooler).
All these coolers will be scrapped because I find them to bulky (And I need another fitting on the video cooler). I think I can make the CPU cooler more efficient too.
Here is the new NB cooler. It still needs some cleaning and lapping...
Notice the 2 'circuler spots' in the second foto. This is because I have riveted a wall inside the 34 mm cap. The upper rivet was just the right size, the lower was a bit too short (thats the reason you see some solder there). I tested it with tap water (2 bar pressure), there were no leaks. It has a flowpath roughly the same surfacearea as the tubing. The baseplate is 1.4 mm thick. The hose I'll be using will be 8 mm id (50 mm2 as flowpath).
When I'll make the other blocks i'll make some step by step foto's so everybody can see exactly how to make one themselves (wait 1 a 2 weeks...).
All the 'homemade' blocks I see here all require a machine shop. Most people don't have that . The 3 most important items needed to make these blocks is a vise, a hand drill and a gas burner. No milling, no lathe needed and no drill press needed...
Meteor