[Solder]

Since I built my liquid loop my CPU seems to be hotter than I would expect. Under Prime 95 I'm hitting 83*C. My loop is taking the initial heat dump from the pumps then the heat from the dual 560 Ti's then to the CPU on up to the rad. Should 83*C be reached with this loop? I just don't see why it would jump up that far. My idle temp is about 45*C unless it's summer with no AC like now (no benching during summer months) where it will idle around 50*C. The 83*C is during the winter with a nice cool room unless I'm benching it, then I have to open a window 'cause it gets warm in here. Is a 40* jump normal I guess would be the best question?

I used Arctic Silver and a razor to apply it nice and thin, not transparent thin, perhaps paper thin. I am planning on reseating the CPU block but not sure that's the issue.

The 560's are wonderfully happy at 38*C idle (summer) and max under gaming 46*C. My max during the winter was low 40's, say 42ish, under furmark burn in test.

[Conumdrum]

RX 360 rad isn't enough for your setup. The GPU's are warming up the water, not because they are first, just your Dt temps are higher than they need to be.

83C is high, what are you measuring with? We'd rather see coretemps, not a general CPU temp.

Realtemp to measure, Prime 95 and Heaven benchmark run concurrently at the same time for 30 minutes. That will tell us a lot. Ambients, idle temps then 30 min later your ambients and temps please.

[Solder]

83*C was the Highest core temp, if I remember correctly 78-79 was the lowest. I use real temp to get my readings. I'm not sure I would be able to run both benchmarks without putting my cpu in thermal danger. I have a plan to add a second rad later this year, XSPC RX 480 with a Koolance rad bracket off the back of the case. This will put a rad mid loop before the CPU which I hope will be enough to dissipate the heat. Your thoughts please?

With no AC in this place, my room gets to be in the 90's which is why I have no plans to run benchmarks during the summer months. Yes I'm uncomfortable here but this will only last until I get my degree.

[Conumdrum]

Rad mid loop doesn't matter. You don't understand how heat and watertemps work. Putting a bigger rad (you don't need that silly large rad) is all you need to do.

Read, learn, welcome to a real science WC forum for a change.

Good luck on the degree. Back to getting the degree. Priorities.

[Solder]

Excuse me, I read the Delta T guide in the "how to" section describing it as the difference between the ambient air temperature and the water temperature. A proper liquid cooling loop has enough radiators to dissipate the heat generated by the chips balancing out the water temperature throughout the loop.

I'm reading and trying to learn all I can about water cooling but your comment isn't helping. Mainly the third sentence "Putting a bigger rad (you don't need that silly large rad) is all you need to do." So you're saying to put a large rad but not a large rad in the loop. As for the placement in the loop, I understand that it doesn't matter where it is placed, I'm simply stating that that is my plan and where I am going to put it. If I had the resources to physically mod the case I would be happy to but I don't. This leaves me the only other option of placing the rad outside the case.

Are you saying a second triple rad would be enough instead of the quad rad? I was also taking into consideration aesthetics. I think the longer rad would blend in better with the shape of the case than a shorter one but I haven't decided yet.

[Conumdrum]

You only need to ad a 120x2 in the bottom, removing the HD cage and cutting holes. Done all the time in the 800D.

And yea, if your gonna put one on the back or top, then go as big as you can. A 120x3 times two is overkill for the lower wattage of your setup, but your ambients are HOT. So go for it. You have Dt figured out, we never know what peeps do and don't know. Most have no clue, glad you do.

[Solder]

Thanks, I'm not some joker who doesn't do his homework. I joined this forum because from what I've read, articles and the like, you guys seem to have your stuff together.

Like I said some day I'll have the opportunity to mod the case but until then I have to make due. I really like the cases from mountainmods, really spacious but expensive. Some day...

[Solder]

Completed the install of the second rad and reseated the CPU block. What an improvement! The maximum reading is from a 30 minute Prime 95 benchmark.

[EarthDog]

MUCH better... nice!

[Solder]

Thanks EarthDog, I'm doing the happy dance. I also LOVE these Scythe 1850 rpm typhoons compared to the 3000 rpm ones, they're running at full bore and almost completely silent! I finally have the super quiet computer I've always wanted and some amazing cooling as well. I couldn't be more pleased.

[Nebulous]

Nice job indeed!

[Conumdrum]

Congrats! More Raddage is the answer to many of the worlds problems.

[Solder]

lol, alright Nebulous here are some pics , they're not the best since they're taken with my phone but it's better than nothing.

I agree Conumdrum, it's all about keeping cool. Thanks for the advice.

[Nebulous]

Solder that looks good! Very nice job

[Solder]

Thanks so much, it was a bit more work than I had anticipated. Bleeding the air is a lot more complex now with the second rad involved, not to mention the whole thing weighs quite a bit. The cable management in the back is finally finished also, neatly tied up and tucked away like I needed it. I have a custom Demciflex dual 120 filter on its way for the lower portion of the rad which will complete the build. I used a Lian Li 120 filter mount for the inlet to the rear of the case. I found however, the 120 fans will fit with the rear posts for the rad bracket if I mod the mounting holes in the fan. I will have to bore out the mount holes just a bit to allow for the threaded part of the quick disconnect posts, but it can be done.

[Nebulous]

Yeah, bleeding and filling is tedious. I always used a "T" line to fill and bleed my setups. Took up alot less space than a typical resevior, but it wasn't fun filling and bleeding. Now i'm using a micro res in my main. Not to mention, as you stated, the added weight. Just think, after it's all said and done you get to enjoy your masterpiece

Remember tho, over time you will have to drain it to flush it out and refill with fresh H20 and biocide.

I does look nice and clean tho. Congrats!

[Solder]

I'm thinking an annual flush will be plenty. Is there a particular biocide that would be recommended over the others? I'm running a kill coil and 500ml of Feser One VS.C with approximately 2000ml distilled H2O at the moment. I don't have any biocide in there because I'm not sure which to buy for the next flush/fill. I don't think I'll have any algae issues with the silver and the VS.C added to the water this time around, but I would like to just run distilled H2O and biocide + the kill coil next time.

[Conumdrum]

Ditch the Feser stuff on your rebuild. Watch your temps. Feser is known to be problematic.

[Solder]

What kind of problems? I had read originally during my first part of my build (before I found OC's forums) Feser was one of the better fluids to use if you were using fluid instead of water. It's not the dyed stuff. Should I be worried about my blocks?

What I read about Feser fluid was that the dye would break down and clog the blocks. I didn't see anything that would suggest the fluid itself was the problem.

I keep reading about PT Nuke. Is that the best one to use?... Never mind, yes it is.

[Conumdrum]

It's PHN Nuke, PT Nuke is the old stuff.

Feser, before you found these forums. Not uncommon.

One thread I have linked to.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...66#post4544766

Not saying your stuff is the same, one reason we stay with the cheaperst simplest water solution: Distilled and a biocide. Killcoil is good too.