Which Fittings Would You Recommend?

twiggy159 · May 28, 2010

I was wondering what kind of clamps or fittings you would recommend. I'm currently using a 1/2ID 3/4OD tubing and I have 4 compression fittings and four clamps that you have to squeeze open with pliers. I like the way the compression fittings look but they seem like that the tube can slip right off. I like the clamps because they can hold down the tube no problem but aren't as nice looking as the compression fittings. So which fittings would you recommend? If all possible, could I have a link to these fittings?

evensen007 · May 28, 2010

That tubing OD is redonculous, but if you insist on keeping it go with these fittings:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=26555

IKIKUINTHENUTZ · May 28, 2010

I would say go with what you think looks good to you. Fittings just connects the tubes. Most people now like compression fittings for an all in one connection that don't need clamps and some people believe it does a better job than most clamps.

hokiealumnus · May 28, 2010

If you go with compressions, just make sure the ID / OD rating of the fitting matches your tubing. Bitspower fittings are very nice. I only have two b/c I needed a couple 90deg rotaries. The rest get cheap D-Tek barbs. All of mine are barbed, I don't do compressions b/c of cost. What can I say, I'm cheap.

twiggy159 · May 29, 2010

evensen007 said:
That tubing OD is redonculous, but if you insist on keeping it go with these fittings:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=26555

These are the fittings I have as far as compression fittings:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=59_346_446&products_id=25276

They are a bit cheaper but I think a little off-brand as compared to Bitspower. Do you think that these are fine? I'm just a little nervous because I used to have those crappy zip-tie styled clamps on my old setup and it gave out on the CPU block barb and destroyed a $200 video card. Now that I upgraded to a GTX 480 I'm freaking out even more. Is there any way to positively make sure that that tube isn't coming out of that compression fitting?

Higdon · May 29, 2010

Besides crazy glue and magic nothing is 100%. I am building my system now, and honestly I do not mind spending a little more to protect my 2-3k investment.

QuietIce · May 29, 2010

I think you'll find most of us old timers use barbs and screw clamps. The best screw clamps I've found are stainless steel and brass from the auto parts store - built to take years of abuse from high pressures and temps ...

King107s · May 29, 2010

QuietIce said:
I think you'll find most of us old timers use barbs and screw clamps. The best screw clamps I've found are stainless steel and brass from the auto parts store - built to take years of abuse from high pressures and temps ...

+1

Its what I've been using for years and besides being pretty secure it doesn't look as bad as a big plastic squeeze clamp, easier to remove and won't wear out.

boucher91 · May 29, 2010

http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-T...-Fitting-1-2-to-3-4-BP-SLCPF-CC5-pr-4400.html
may favs

Conumdrum · May 29, 2010

Higdon said:
Besides crazy glue and magic nothing is 100%. I am building my system now, and honestly I do not mind spending a little more to protect my 2-3k investment.

You mean Crazy Glue and Duct Tape. Now thats magic.

I've fixed so much stuff for so long with so little I can fix anything with Duct Tape. I even used it as thermal compound while on a top secret mission in a hot desert on a ordinary small blue planet while under attack from taxes and irate customers.

Anyhoo, compression fittings done right or barbs done right are fine. Ya notice I said done right. Compressions look better but have no advantage over a barb with a proper hose clamp.

When you get your stuff you take a small 4" piece of hose, your barb or compression fitting and you play with it and have a clue before you build the loop and add liquid. It always works. Prep, understand, take it slow.

jr1 · May 29, 2010

+1 to prep understand and take it slow

Cobracity · May 30, 2010

If you use compressions be aware of this (which I just learned by doing):

The goal is to get the hose to use its "natural" shape to avoid kinking. When you put the hose on the barb, orientate it so that when you apply the screwed on part, the hose will end up in the right position. As you tighten the fitting, it will rotate the entire piece of hose clockwise as it clamps down. So what you thought was a nice kink free bend could get all jacked up unless you account for the rotation of the fitting.

It's a lot more simple than I explained it. Can anyone else describe what I'm talking about better for him?

twiggy159 · May 30, 2010

Cobracity said:
If you use compressions be aware of this (which I just learned by doing):

The goal is to get the hose to use its "natural" shape to avoid kinking. When you put the hose on the barb, orientate it so that when you apply the screwed on part, the hose will end up in the right position. As you tighten the fitting, it will rotate the entire piece of hose clockwise as it clamps down. So what you thought was a nice kink free bend could get all jacked up unless you account for the rotation of the fitting.

It's a lot more simple than I explained it. Can anyone else describe what I'm talking about better for him?

I think I understand what your saying. Do you mean that it will rotate when you put the fitting on the block or the actual compression part over the tube? If you mean before you put on the compression ring, I always make sure it uses it's natural bend in the way I am putting the tube to the next part.

Spawn-Inc · May 30, 2010

twiggy159 said:
I think I understand what your saying. Do you mean that it will rotate when you put the fitting on the block or the actual compression part over the tube? If you mean before you put on the compression ring, I always make sure it uses it's natural bend in the way I am putting the tube to the next part.

if i understand it correctly, put on the compression base without the ring. then (for example) if you want to natural bend of the tubing to be at 3 o'clock you would place the bend at 12 o'clock and as you tighten it should move to 3 o'clock. that being said the amount it moves may vary.

Cobracity · May 30, 2010

Right on the money Spawn. That is exactly what I meant.

Took a bit of time figuring how much the bend would move to get it into the right position.

twiggy159 · May 30, 2010

Cobracity said:
Right on the money Spawn. That is exactly what I meant.

Took a bit of time figuring how much the bend would move to get it into the right position.

Ah okay, yeah I was playing around with that earlier today. I'll give you a pic of where I plan on putting the reservoir as I drilled some holes for the mounting bracket.

EDIT:

Here's the picture of where the reservoir will be mounted:

Larger Image

As you can see, I removed the upper two modular bays from the Antec 1200, drilled 4 holes for the screws and one large one for the fan wires and etc. So far my case looks MUCH more open after a little cleanup of cables!

twiggy159 · Jun 1, 2010

This may be a little off topic, but I didn't want to start a new thread. I was looking online for a uni-sleeved 24-pin power supply extension cable that had white sleeving. The only place I could find that allows you to even make your own is Performance PCs. But when I got everything sorted out ( White Sleeving, black heat shrink, black housing) the total came out to be $71 for a 12'' cable! Are there any thread with tutorials on how to do the sleeving yourself? I have no idea what I'm doing as far as how to even get those pins in and out.

hokiealumnus · Jun 1, 2010

Basic cable sleeving guide. I'd highly recommend investing in pin extractors.You'll need one of these & one of these. There are others around that page too, but I have both of those, they're cheap and do the job. Sleeving is a tedious, time consuming job (never sleeved a full PSU myself), which is why they charge so much. Best of luck to you!

twiggy159 · Jun 1, 2010

hokiealumnus said:
Basic cable sleeving guide. I'd highly recommend investing in pin extractors.You'll need one of these & one of these. There are others around that page too, but I have both of those, they're cheap and do the job. Sleeving is a tedious, time consuming job (never sleeved a full PSU myself), which is why they charge so much. Best of luck to you!

Thanks for the info and quick reply! I won't need the molex tool seeing how I'm not planning on doing any molex connections due to them being already out of sight. Does that ATX pin remover also work on PCI-E pins as well?

hokiealumnus · Jun 1, 2010

As far as I know yes, they're very similar. I can't recall trying on the end you'll be working with (I was working on a dongle with males, not females), but it should work.

Which Fittings Would You Recommend?

Member

Registered

Member

Water Cooled Moderator

Member

Member

Disabled

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Water Cooled Moderator

Member

Water Cooled Moderator

Similar threads