Can I leave matte primer color on case?

Hey All! Its definitely been some time since I came onto here. Hehe, anyways, I bought a Bitfenix Prdogiy ITX from Microcenter for a steal (31.99 open box) since they where just trying to get rid of it. Since the white on it isn't all that great anymore, I want to paint it a flat grey, or a dark flat grey. Was wondering If I could use just primer to use it as the color? I was looking at something perhaps like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd_130959-90-2089830_0__?productId=3728647 But this grey seems a little too dark for me. What would you guys recommend? I don't have a spray gun so that way is already eliminated for me. Oh yeah, recommend me the same color except for the plastic base and handle? Or could I just use the same one thats for metal?
Thanks!

EDIT: I kind of want they shade of grey to be like this

You could easily just leave a primer finish.
Primer is really just a thick neutral-colored paint.

powder coat it and rattle can the plastics

tungureanu said:

powder coat it and rattle can the plastics

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He'd be better off just buying a case in the color he wants than paying for custom powder coating.

ATMINSIDE said:

You could easily just leave a primer finish.
Primer is really just a thick neutral-colored paint.

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Thanks for that! that was my main question I had.

pigpottomus said:

Thanks for that! that was my main question I had.

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You're welcome

Just remember to give it a quick sand and dusting before spraying

Working in an automotive body shop for a living, leaving them in primer for any length of time isn't a great idea. Primer is porous, it lets oxygen in to the bare metal underneath and it will still rust (though not as easily) with primer on it. Primer also degrades when exposed to the elements, especially sunlight, and itself will oxidize and start to come off as kind of a powder, as in you could wipe your hand over it and it would come back grey. So no, primer is not the same as a finish coat paint which is not porous and hardens (primer is supposed to be easy to sand) much better and can withstand the elements.

But, if you're painting over the existing finish, you shouldn't have to worry about rust. Clean it off with some dish soap and water first, wipe it dry and then scuff it down with some fine steel wool, then wipe the dust off would be the easiest way to prepare it. Then since your computer will be inside (hopefully), maybe the primer will hold up longer.

Really, in my opinion, you shouldn't even have to prime it so long as you don't knock it down to bare metal. The surface is already prepared. You can just scuff it down and paint it with flat grey spray paint, just don't go too cheap or it does require primer underneath. I prefer to use Krylon Fusion spray paint but Rustoleum is good too.

One of the side panels on the back part had a bent so I had hammered it and some of the paint chipped off in that spot, Should I go bare metal? at least with that side panel?

Sand it down with sandpaper and try to feather the edges of the existing paint. Then sand or scuff the rest of the panel, prime the area that is bare metal and sand it smooth. You may have to prime the spot more than once to get it smooth but if you're leaving it matte it won't show a whole lot of imperfections.

Alright thanks for the help so far. Its just going to be a bit harder to do since it is at the back part of the panel where its 90 degrees to the panel, now I just need to choose a paint. Oh yeah, Would I be able to use the same paint that I am going to use for the metal parts of the case for the plastic parts by using self adhesion promoter on the plastics first?

If you use Krylon Fusion it's great because it works for all surfaces, primed metal and bare plastic, and doesn't need an adhesion promoter, otherwise yes the same paint will work with an adhesion promoter.

I don't understand how sanding that is harder. If the face of the panel itself wasn't messed up and it's just the edge then it should be easier.

EDIT: Also, since you'll have to prime anyway, you can just prime the entire case. As I said, since this IS NOT a car and it won't be exposed like one, it might hold up fine.

Primer is designed to provide adhesion to a surface. Even indoors, it will not hold up well and needs to be top coated to protect it from scratching and oxidation (chalking). However, if you are happy with the color of the primer, you could always top coat it with a clear finish to protect it. Clear finishes are available in flat (aka matte), satin, semi gloss, and glossy so you can have whatever look you want.

Lady Fitzgerald said:

Primer is designed to provide adhesion to a surface. Even indoors, it will not hold up well and needs to be top coated to protect it from scratching and oxidation (chalking). However, if you are happy with the color of the primer, you could always top coat it with a clear finish to protect it. Clear finishes are available in flat (aka matte), satin, semi gloss, and glossy so you can have whatever look you want.

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If thats the color he wants, thats probably not a bad route.

Lady Fitzgerald said:

Primer is designed to provide adhesion to a surface. Even indoors, it will not hold up well and needs to be top coated to protect it from scratching and oxidation (chalking). However, if you are happy with the color of the primer, you could always top coat it with a clear finish to protect it. Clear finishes are available in flat (aka matte), satin, semi gloss, and glossy so you can have whatever look you want.

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Oh, Thanks A TON! Hehe, always thought it was glossy, But thanks for that

Make sure you use lacquer not enamel. Enamels are terrible paints....

The enamels are more durable and give a better finish without a final sanding but they are harder to apply properly and take much longer to dry. Lacquer is far more forgiving.

Lady Fitzgerald said:

The enamels are more durable and give a better finish without a final sanding but they are harder to apply properly and take much longer to dry. Lacquer is far more forgiving.

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Dunno what enamels you've used that are more durable, I've regretted it EVERY time. I've shifted to catalyzed varnishes myself, but rattle can lacquers can do a great job in a pinch. I'd say go with nitro over acrylic as well.

I TOLD you they are harder to apply. Seriously, enamels have to have a wet coat applied to get a smooth finish yet the coat can't be too heavy or it will run. Using a rattle can makes it even a more difficult. Unless baked, enamel can't be sanded for a long time after applying because it takes forever to dry, sometimes several weeks, and sanding a final coat will never give quite the gloss a properly applied wet final coat does. However, if one has the skills (sadly, I don't ) to apply rattle can enamel and the ideal temperature and humidity conditions to apply it in (again, I don't), it will give a far more durable finish than lacquer can.

I don't use much other than automotive finishes, base-coat/clear-coat, acrylic urethane, acrylic enamel, and lacquer (primer, never really painted lacquer finishes, that was before my time)

Anyway, I've only used enamel in rattle-cans. It always works well for me, although I'd rather spray an activated finish with an HVLP gun.

Oh yeah, catalyzed polyurethane can't be beat. It's been a looong time since I used that stuff; haven't had the need.