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NZXT Switch 810 water project

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Does the ID mean much in the performance department? Is a smaller ID better or does it not really matter?

Can the ID of the tubing be too big? I was looking at 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD just because it's nice and thick but I could have the wrong idea about tubing sizes and be going about it all wrong.

Of course with what Conumdrum said I am also now looking at 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD.
 
With ID, you won't notice any performance gain/decrease between 1/2" and 3/8". Technically speaking, a larger ID is better (as it increases flow), but the performance gain is so miniscule it's negligible. Base your decision on aesthetics.
 
Thanks, I will probably go with the 1/2" since it is what I had already set my mind on getting.

Top Rad: Coolgate Triple 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger
Bot Rad: Coolgate Dual 120mm Ultimate heat Exchanger
Fans: Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120x25 - 1850 RPM
Pump: Swiftech MCP35X
Res: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 Inline Reservoir - Ice Red
CPU Block: XSPC RayStorm Special Edition Copper Intel 1155 Block
GPU Block: Heatkiller GPU-X3 GTX 680 "Hole Edition" Refrence Full Coverage Block
SLI Bridge: Heatkiller GPU-X2/X3 X Dual Link Block Bridge - 1 or 2 Slot (Not sure which I need yet, will figure it out when i get the mobo but I assume I only need the 1 slot)
Tubing: Danger Den DreamFlex Value Pack - UV Red (1/2" ID x 3/4" OD)

I think i have the fittings down, just need to see how many of each I will need. Do some blocks ONLY use compression fittings? Or can all blocks use barbs or compressions?
 
What kind of fittings are you going with? If barbs, get some nice clamps. I think Lamptron makes some really nice aluminum clamps. OR maybe it was Koolance? Not sure.

IF compressions, I'd go with either Bitspower or Monsoon. But, that's just me.
 
Most blocks nowadays are threaded G1/4", so as long as your compression/barb fittings are also G1/4" they'll be able to fit, barring any spacing constraints/issues with the ports of the blocks.
 
They only thing to worry about are the GPU/CPU blocks with fat compressions.

GPU:
I have seen a few that won't let the 3/4" OD compressions screw all the way down. But that was over a year ago, and they redid the top plate to fix that. Forget the maker.

CPU:
The outlets on a small CPU block (they are all small) can be too close together for 3/4 OD compressions. Heck, even my Swiftech block an XT? would bee to close. I screwed some BP 90's into the block and used my trusty barbs to give me clean tubing runs. It's in the stickies, pics etc, I can post pics.

Your best bet is to check builds with your blocks and post on the makers forums to make sure.

Just a bit of homework, that's all.
 
Updated list and added a couple things. Nothing on the WC list is really 100% except probably the rads, tubing and the clamps. Everything else is subject to change until specified otherwise. Also still doing fittings research, seeing how many i need of barbs and other degree fittings and such.
 
Added water cooling gear list. Only problem is I don't know if or how many molex splitters I need? I don't know if the pump uses 1 or 2 molex, if the fan controllers use 1 or 2 molex and I think my case uses 4 so at most that is 8 molex and I have 6 so I would need 2 splitters or a splitter with 4 molex on it making it 8 with 2 splitters or 9 with a 1x4 splitter. Thoughts on that?
 
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Should I also be using compressions at all or will all barbs be fine? I never really read anything about HAVING to use compressions so i assume it's a choice?
 
Barbs+clamps vs compression is completely your choice. You can even use some of both, but most prefer to stick to one just to keep the look uniform.
 
I kind of like the whole barb clamp look, kind of industrial looking. Also not 100% on the res. I was looking at a couple but wasn't too sure about them.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._UV_Cathode_-_UV_Red_Helix.html?tl=g30c97s165

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...y_Reservoir_-_UV_Red_Helix.html?tl=g30c97s165

They are nice looking but I am not too sure on practicality or even esthetically because i do not have a huge window to look into so I would only see it if ever working on it or with having the door off for whatever reason.

Any other suggestions for a good res?
 
Very true, though the one designed for the MCP35X seems to be hit or miss from what i have read online, will other tops from other brands fit onto it? i am not really sure how they actually screw onto or connect to the top of the pump.
 
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