• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

EK connection leak, What to do?

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

timesavage

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2011
Location
Bay Area
Hey Group. I just got my 3 way sli up and running. the bridge is an EK FC Bridge Triple Parallel CSQ, attached to a EK GeForce 680 GTX+ VGA Liquid Cooling Block. These are the blocks that fit the GTX 670 FTW. Anyhow the connection on the bottom card has a slow drip. I have changed the seal three times, and attempted to remove all debris around the connection, but to no avail, it still drips. Luckily this last cleaning slowed the drip way down. Do I need new parts? Seals? Prime 95 to melt it in there? Is the weight of three cards an issue? Any help is appreciated.

download


download


Thanks!
 
The images are still broken. You need to host the pictures on the forums.
 
I gave up on the crappy seals and o-rings a long time ago and now use silicone sealants around the base of the fittings. I use Permatex Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant which can be purchased at auto parts stores or hardware stores. You only need a small bead around the thread or base without the o-ring and it will form a water tight seal that will not leak! The nice part is that its actually really easy to remove from the threads if you need to do a tear down/clean up/refill. I've used this stuff on water blocks, reservoirs and radiators with zero issues and zero leaks. Just give it the recommended amount of time to cure and you are good to go.
 
dont post the pictures from your mailbox : "http://us-mg6.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2_0_0_1_37166_ACfmjkQAAAPQUvzHygAAAD%2FRr8E&pid=2&fid=Inbox&inline=1"

post them online or attach them here.
 
check the fittings for burs. I had one out of a dozen or so fittings that just didnt get milled fully. I had a time til I passed my finger over it and finally felt the ridge.
 
check the fittings for burs. I had one out of a dozen or so fittings that just didnt get milled fully. I had a time til I passed my finger over it and finally felt the ridge.

It wouldn't really matter as the edge of the barb and the threads are not sealing surfaces... It should seal against the o-ring when properly sized and tightened.
 
It wouldn't really matter as the edge of the barb and the threads are not sealing surfaces... It should seal against the o-ring when properly sized and tightened.

correct that's where I meant of course where the o ring seats lol. Was just giving a general feel it advice
 
here ya go, hopefully this works

To play it safe and I know most hate this but you'll have to drain and bring out that configuration out of the case for a testing run and figure out what exactly is going on. I would not have any power going on when there's a leak present. I am sure you know this already. :p

Is that acrylic? I can't stand acrylic for these reasons. Not assuming that it is cracked but its a high probability. I would investigate for a crack. Worse comes to worse you can grab a acetal bridge and also hope its not coming from the acrylic water blocks.
 
To play it safe and I know most hate this but you'll have to drain and bring out that configuration out of the case for a testing run and figure out what exactly is going on. I would not have any power going on when there's a leak present. I am sure you know this already. :p

Is that acrylic? I can't stand acrylic for these reasons. Not assuming that it is cracked but its a high probability. I would investigate for a crack. Worse comes to worse you can grab a acetal bridge and also hope its not coming from the acrylic water blocks.

+1

Definitely need to pull it and find the leak.
 
Back