Some small pictures of my overhauled Water circuit

The path is as follows:

Connect (From Line A, and Line B) -> Pump -> Split (To Line A, and Line B)

Line A: BIX 1 -> BIX 2 -> T-Line 1 (Barrel) -> Cascade -> Connect with Line B -> Pump

Line B: T-Line 2 (Trigger) -> Chevette Core -> Mini-Ball Valve -> Swiftech MCW 50 -> Z Chip -> Connect with Line A -> Pump

It's busy

I'm pretty sure a different pump would lower temperatures signifigantly. The CSL T-1 heats up like an oven element, and is polluting both my water and air with a lot of heat. The computer actually heats my room up quite noticeably over the rest of my house when it's on. I'm considering an Iwaki 20 as a replacement, but not yet. A really tall Bong cooler using the T1 is swirling around the planning part of my mind right now.

ahh...I see. I also think I see my old chevette core.

I'm currently having temperature issues, and I think it's due to the pump.

The weather has been warming up here, and my room temperature has been climbing steadily. As well, I have found that at a certain point the load temperature jumps drastically, after a small amount of added Vcore voltage, possibly reaching a 'breaking point' or something?.

Perhaps there is an issue with my NF7-S's temperature sensor, as I get temperatures differing by as much as 15 degrees every time I restart the rig.

Does anyone have any suggestions for me, on a pump replacement?

I am seriously considering pulling the T1, playing with a huge bong cooler idea with it outside of the computer, and installing two indendant loops within the machine, using two different pumps, for everyday use.

I would really appreciate some comments and constructive critisism, input and a wider spread of ideas are what I need riught now

I get the same temp reports on my NF7. After a restart it will show 10C higher temps. I don't worry about the reported temps, only prime95 stability.

felinusz, how much heat the T1 dumps in your loop ?
And how loud is the pump ?
cheers

pelikan - I would agree with that, except that, for example, a load temperature of 36-37C on one 'start up', changes into a load temperature of 46-47C on another 'start-up', and then changes back to 36-37C.... that's extremely bizarre, and makes no sense past the guessing that the probe is totally wonked . I guess using my external probe to see what's really up it my best bet.

Overbrazil - the pump is actually inaudible, and almost totally vibration free. It feels like, and sounds like a rock when it's running .

As for heating the water... I'm not sure how much of an impact it's making. The hoses feel about room temperature to the touch, and my external temperature probes read my GPU and chipset temperatures as fairly cool.

If I run the computer with the fans on 12V, the room will heat up noticeably within an hour - the system is putting out a tonne of heat. The pump itself also heats up signifigantly, and is quite warm to the touch.

Right now I'm pondering some fun playing with two isolated loops in the machine, a CPU/BIX loop, and a GPU/Chipset/Chevvy Core loop. I really want to take another shot at routing, and try to ditch some elbows as well .

thx for the reply. Very nice setup.
Congrats

I couldn't imaging doing hardware changes with that setup, what a PITA! Looks clean considering all the stuff you have going on in there.

DUDE!! What in the world do you have in there? for all that stuff I would hope for sub-arctic temps....hehehe. But seriously...what is all that stuff??

I see that you cut thru the plastic sidewindow. How did/do you do that. I need to do the same to my Super Lanboy

I used a big Hole Saw, and a Drill Press. I'm pretty incompetant at using tools and such, but it was really easy - I used my schools shop room, although i bought my own Hole saw.

First mark the center of your fan blowhole with an etching stick (a sharp obect), and line up the Hole saw center Mandrel with that mark. Then *COVER* the entire sheet of plexiglass with thick Scotch Tape. This will prevent cracks from forming.

Set the drill press to it's lowest RPM setting - this is important. Now slowly lower the Hole saw untill it starts cutting. The Plexiglass will sort of 'flake' off along the egde, and the flakes will melt. Go slowly, up and down, and don't push too hard. Wear eye gear. Smooth it out with a file, and some 'goop' (I don't know what it's called - my shop teacher had it in a jar), and it will look really slick and professional .

Very nice...IM gonna give that shot

nice bro with all these tube managements..howcome my clearflex won't bend like that?!!