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Caution with Maze3

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BlackLight1880

Registered
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Location
Texas
I just purchased a maze3 and noticed something that may concern some of you with the same block.

--before I start--

As a credit to DangerDen, the item came well packaged with everything well wrapped.

The block was somewhat lapped (not mirror, but prob still usuable). Also, the lucite cover was free of scratches, and placed squarely over the copper bottom.

---now---

As a warning to anyone who may be using the block, be sure and check that the inlet and outlet barbs are firmly in place. I inspected mine when I got it, and it seemed firm, but upon placing a clamp on each one (as an extra security) I noticed BOTH barbs easily broke free from the light (silicone?) adhesive and started to turn fairly easily.

I don't know if it would have leaked, but as a precaution, you might want to add a little more sealant for your hardware's sake.
 
Im fed up with these clear tops.

My TC-4 leaked twice. Went through two tops and they both cracked.

I say we stay away from clear tops. It looks kool for the first five seconds. Then I kinda couldn't care less if I can see into my block or not.

I almost lost a brand new 8k3a+ and Geforce3Ti500 to a leak yesterday!


Im sticking with soldered tops from now on. And I really recommend soldered tops for everyone else. Learn from our mistakes. :beer:
 
Been watercooled for a few days and no signs of lose barbs or leakage; will keep an eye out though; thanks. :)
 
i have a gemini spiral wb, it has a clear top, been useing for a couple of months now, and the barbs are still firm as the day i got it, and haven't had any kindof problem with leaking or anything like that!
 
what do u do if it starts to leak out water? i noticed my maze 3 kinda leaks when the tube is bent, i guess the pressure kinda forces itself out... it doesn't leak normally but i dunno =P seems kinda sketchy to me
 
I have a Spir@l and after nearly 6 months of constant use it leaked on Saturday. Cooking my Board, vidcard and various other cards. I'd stick to soldered tops.
 
Sorry to hear about the bad news. I too have opted for a copper top Maze 3-1......


Dont trust the plastic tops!!!

Paul.K
 
DoGMaN said:
I have a Spir@l and after nearly 6 months of constant use it leaked on Saturday. Cooking my Board, vidcard and various other cards. I'd stick to soldered tops.


Ouch. I hate hearing stuff like that. Nothing worse than losing your stuff.

With the maze3, I ended up putting some aquarium sealant (silicone) around the barbs without screwing them out. Not sure if resealing with silicone will "cure" the problem, but I sure felt better about it. Since I've only had the thing a few days, I hate to replace it so soon even though I feel I should have bought the copper top.

All I can do is hope for the best.
 
The Spyder said:
I noticed yours had the nylon fittings, mine is clear- had the brass brabs and has worked perfectly!

yea, I ordered the nylon instead of the brass. No real good reasoning to that, other than I didn't think that it would matter at first.

I did notice when I was setting everything up that I felt much more confortable tightening the clamps on the store-bought brass fittings over tightening the clamps on the nylon. The nylon fittings seem pretty strong, but nothing near a stronger brass fitting. I've actually thought about swapping them out, since now I now they aren't "cemented" in.
 
DoGMaN said:
I have a Spir@l and after nearly 6 months of constant use it leaked on Saturday. Cooking my Board, vidcard and various other cards. I'd stick to soldered tops.

where did yours leak from, I think I will double check mine asap.
 
tseongsun said:


where did yours leak from, I think I will double check mine asap.

Mine was leaking through threads. Mind you there was a silicone type sealant on there when I got it, but I don't believe there was enough. I think they leave that up to you (which I know now). I surely doesn't hurt to check it out.
 
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