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i would make sure you jostle your loop, esp your rad. do your best to get the t line to be the highest point (sometimes this involves inverting your case). Big bubbles make a pretty distinct click.

as for the micro bubbles, just let your loop run with the fillport open to let them slowly come out. case inversion isnt necessary to remove them. could take a day +. if you have a vario pump, turn it down to 2ish.
 
Alright, the pump is now silent, and the tubes are clearing up nicely.
Temps=GREAT, AMAZING, WORTH IT
right now, with 3 fans, 2 low power fans and an ultra kaze on low I'm hitting 45 degrees full load after about 30 minutes
This IS at 3.8 1.55V, simply amazing.
Next week I'm gettting 6xyate loon mediums, and I believe I can get it down to 43 or lower
this is awsome.
 
Congrats! It's a nervous adventure getting on the WC bus, but getting a good seat next to a helpful person and a bit of brains yourself, it comes out nicely.

And your already upgrading LOL!!!!!! Sorry we got ya hooked, hehe.
 
Dapman, that 43 C is load temps? And if so, running what proggie to load it? I'm running my 940 at 3.8 with around 1.6v and load temps running Seti are in the 41-43 C range. Loop is a Fuzion v.1, D4 pump and PA160 rad with a Panaflo M1A. I had to shut down on pushing it further because I have to leave for work in a couple of hours.
 
Congrats! It's a nervous adventure getting on the WC bus, but getting a good seat next to a helpful person and a bit of brains yourself, it comes out nicely.

And your already upgrading LOL!!!!!! Sorry we got ya hooked, hehe.

Well, I've kinda been on and off about it for a few years, ut I'm defiently here to stay now. What got me back was meeting ChristmasGT in person at the our school (ITT Tech in KC if anyone else goes there) He showed me pics of his system and I started to miss it.

Dapman, that 43 C is load temps? And if so, running what proggie to load it? I'm running my 940 at 3.8 with around 1.6v and load temps running Seti are in the 41-43 C range. Loop is a Fuzion v.1, D4 pump and PA160 rad with a Panaflo M1A. I had to shut down on pushing it further because I have to leave for work in a couple of hours.

I'm using Prime95 small FFT to load, but I keep my room around 67 degrees F so that probably helps too. Also, I'm using the 3x120mm fan version swifttech, the one that was mentioned earlier.

I want to thank everyone who helped me with this project.

I will get pics up as soon as I can, but I have a bad hankerin for some Team fortress 2.
 
Quick question, does swiftech make aluminum radiators, spacifically the 3 120mm fan one? Do I have anything to worry about if I have a copper block (I know about the corrosion, but will I have anyproblems with my radiator)
 
No Swiftech is a good company, they are smarter than that. All you need to do is take the time to go to their web page and read about the constuction of their rad. Not hard to do at all. What I'm trying to get across is you can find the answers yourself.
 
Alright, just checked it's made out of brass
Next on the list...get more money :(

when you find that out please share...

as said swiftech is smarter not to use aluminum in any products they make that's used for water. but they did mess up one time with the GTX and since then have made and will no doubt send out a replacement top if you happen to have one that's corroded. i know they did on another forum i'm on.
 
Watercooling can be very addictive. The temps coupled with the quiet just won't be beat with air. I can't even remember how many times I've upgraded stuff and made changes over the last 4 years that I've been doing this.
 
Alright, so I'm ready for the parts to go to revision 3 of my water cooling kit.
Just for those keeping record (I hope not)
Rev. 1- Swiftech pump, swiftech 2x120mm radiator with built in reservoir, hardware store tubing, OCZ waterblock
Rev 2- same as revision 1 except a 3x120mm swifttech radiator and T-line
Rev 3- new purpose built hoses, 5x 120mm yate loons in push pull, 1 ultra kaze for backup (already on the radiator)

I have a few questions though
Does masterkleer (as seen here) make very good tubing.
How loud are yate loons mediums in a push pull configuration
 
I am wondering
What makes a hose like tygon so much better than a hardware stores hose anyway. Right now the hose in my case looks clear, and isn't leaking, isn't kinking, isn't clouding, and seems fine. Is there a reason to spend $25+ for new tubing.
 
Well, you have a very good point. Tygon is the standard because it has all the features of a well designed hose. The other stuff could be lacking in just one area. But if it works good for you in 2 years from now, great!

We also might be seeing a markup for the better stuff, a good name sells for more. I know we as watercoolers probably don't make 10% of Tygons sales. Maybe they sell to distributors in 1000' quantities, and the distributors sell in 200-500' quanitities., but buying 200' at once might be a big price up front for some smaller retail outlets so they buy in 100' batches, more cost to them and us per ft.

An example, I was looking for replacement springs with specifc charecteristics at work. Small, 1/2 inch long with at least 25 million cycle uses. Was a few years ago, but the maker would of had to set up the machines just for this run. I don't remember the exact $$, but it went something like this: 250 springs was $300, 500 springs was $450, 1000 springs was $675. Something like that. And that was straight from the factory. Imagine our tubing with 2-3 distributors........

If Petras or others could afford buying 1000' at once, the price would be lower for sure.
 
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