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So i was in DFI's new irc support and ....

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Ehhh. wher' mybasebal? #drool# :p
hehe

I'm considering going back to Asus(A8N32-SLI) after living with this very flaky mobo.
Overclockability is useless if you don't have long term stability.
Is this Angry kid at DFI-Street a 14 or 15 year old? :argue:
 
Joe Camel said:
be warned, i have 1 set of "classic BH-5" sticks (and 3 sets of UTT) that wont boot in ANY computer after using them in the DFI.

(IMHO)
GET RID OF THAT MOBO ASAP!

EDIT: although i will (also) tell you that i *think* 1 set of the UTT was "killed" in a MSI mobo with an OCZ DDR Booster...
i wont be using UTT or DFI ANYTIME soon!!

Whats up man? Long time no see? :)
So far, my classic BH is doing pretty good. I'm running 3.68V 24/7 through it. However, with OCZ VX PC3200, I'm having the exact same issue as posted in this thread. I agree with your assessment UTT = Junk.
 
Just top clarify a minor point here. People have taken the line that you buy a DFI knowing the risks involved. Well, I beg to differ here, I'm not a N00b and I have spent considerable time with this board, however I have had to go through an RMA as well. Now, is an RMA part of the acceptable risk?

I don't think it should be. Why should somebody have to send back board after board to find a good one? Some food for thought.

PS*
My 2nd board has been great thus far, except with UTT.
 
You know, I still don't know what caused my OCZ 600W to crap out. I still seem to blame the board.

I should ask OCZ if they've taken record of how many of their PSUs died with the DFI NF4 boards, and compare them to how they've done on other boards.

You say your 2nd board has been good, except for UTT, but I see BH5 in your sig!
 
Super Nade said:
Whats up man? Long time no see? :)
So far, my classic BH is doing pretty good. I'm running 3.68V 24/7 through it. However, with OCZ VX PC3200, I'm having the exact same issue as posted in this thread. I agree with your assessment UTT = Junk.
been keeping my nose in the FOLDing section for the most part these days...

its truly painful to see a 1 gig set of Mushkin 3500 BH-5 sticks not boot... :cry:
ive tried in 3x AMD rigs and 2x intel rigs...no post from any of them :(

i try not to come out and beach about the dead ram since i did run it above "rated" volts so i cant (entirely) blame a mobo or ram manufacturer...

i *think* UTT isnt really bad... but im betting that the voltage the chip can take isnt all that much more than "normal" ram. but since it does respond better, they rated it higher. unfortunately, they have come darn near the *true* MAX volts. so then us OCers come along and go +.5V (or more) over max rated, under the assumption that its like most other ram and has a "built-in" safety margin on the ratings....
thats just my guess...

either way, im "kicking back and watching" till DDR2 comes to AMD and cross-fire works the bugs out...then ill jump back in the benching game ;)

PS havent fired up the sig rig in more than a month...im just a "little" burnt out :-/

--------

ok 1 last thing i have to say:

in regards to AG,
put yourself in his shoes...DFI gives us "less than perfect" products and expect him to (through a FORUM) fix all our / their problems.
id be a bitter, peeed-off, sarcastic, mo-fo too if that were MY job. talk about: :bang head ... id have blown my head off long ago if i had to run DFI-street.

LINK to a DFI-Street forum thread i made when they were a "little" more helpful...
 
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Joe Camel said:
ok 1 last thing i have to say:

in regards to AG,
put yourself in his shoes...DFI gives us "less than perfect" products and expect him to (through a FORUM) fix all our / their problems.
id be a bitter, peeed-off, sarcastic, mo-fo too if that were MY job. talk about: :bang head ... id have blown my head off long ago if i had to run DFI-street.

He still is very disrespectful by the stuff I've seen. No reason for him to blatantly disrespect.

Btw, where you been Joe? I haven't seen you in some time (maybe a few weeks - I think).
 
g0dM@n said:
He still is very disrespectful by the stuff I've seen. No reason for him to blatantly disrespect.

Btw, where you been Joe? I haven't seen you in some time (maybe a few weeks - I think).
you need to start FOLDing, then you'll see a LOT of me ;)

HERE is my most recent project (where i spent my up-grade $ the last few months)

teaser Thumbnail:

full pic on page 4 of above link
 
I don't fold b/c I still live at home, and my parents pay for electricity... yes, I know, I'm a 24-year-old baby still. The only time I ever leave my PC on during the day is when I'm running a burn in... trying to keep the bill down. I will get to it, though... not that soon, but soon enough.
 
Joe Camel said:
ok 1 last thing i have to say:

in regards to AG,
put yourself in his shoes...DFI gives us "less than perfect" products and expect him to (through a FORUM) fix all our / their problems.
id be a bitter, peeed-off, sarcastic, mo-fo too if that were MY job. talk about: :bang head ... id have blown my head off long ago if i had to run DFI-street.

I don't know much about the subject at hand, but I DO know this:
Hating your job is no excuse for being rude or doing it poorly!
Don't like what your job entails.............get a new one!

If helping people is part of your job, do it to the best of your ability. If it becomes too much for you, you need to find a way to make the information more assessable to the client, thereby freeing you up to do more productive things twords your goal of 100% customer satisfaction.

You take on a job or a task, you do that job or task.
If you don't want too, or can't do it anymore, get out, and let someone in who does and can.

If you were hired to help...............that's your job!
Not making excuses.
If you can not help the client, lead them, by the hand, if nessesary, to someone or something, that CAN help them.
Politely.

"Well, I guess you're screwed." in NOT an answer.
It does not solve problems, it creates them!

Ofcourse, i'm just someone trying to get by in the World on limited brainpower, so I very well could be (and have been many times) wrong.
;)
 
yes, in all reality, you are quite right Boondawg.

i just hate to see anybody not get a "fare shake" and its all to easy to not think of it from "his side"...

i havent experienced any of his dissing (i stopped going to DFI-Street when the whole you *MUST* have a sig "rule" started) so i bet my tone would change if he had called me and idiot or such :mad:

PS Anchorage, Alaska huh...but you can duct some COLD COLD air into your HSF's :santa:
 
Joe Camel said:
i just hate to see anybody not get a "fare shake" and its all to easy to not think of it from "his side"...

I feel the same way. :cool:

Joe Camel said:
PS Anchorage, Alaska huh...but you can duct some COLD COLD air into your HSF's :santa:

Yes, it's -10c as we speak.

I just bought a mobo & cpu from a fellow forum member, for that VERY experiment!

Going to achieve -40f, then do a little cranking!
Thinking of mounting the case OUTSIDE, with the drives inside the house.
I think I can beat the condensation issue.

We ALL will see soon..................very soon.

I wouldn't THINK of leaving you guys out of THIS one!

:santa:
 
dont do it you will get condensation and kill your board .I kiled my MSI NEO 2 about 2 weeks ago by running my Window A/C straight into my case.I was gaming for about 2/3 hours and it was runninig great then i shut down and notice the window fogged up a little .So i opened the case and there a slight bit of condensation on some the parts but not bad so i go out and come back an hour latter but no boot up just lights and fans no video..So i switched over to my spare board and she booted right up.My ambient temps were like 12c and cpu was running 22c and 6800nu i have no idea.So i wouldnt do it unless you have prepared for this
 
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gigabit said:
dont do it you will get condensation and kill your board .I kiled my MSI NEO 2 about 2 weeks ago by running my Window A/C straight into my case.I was gaming for about 2/3 hours and it was runninig great then i shut down and notice the window fogged up a little .So i opened the case and there a slight bit of condensation on some the parts but not bad so i go out and come back an hour latter but no boot up just lights and fans no video..So i switched over to my spare board and she booted right up.My ambient temps were like 12c and cpu was running 22c and 6800nu i have no idea.So i wouldnt do it unless you have prepared for this


Window AC creates condensation as part of its functioning process. That's why you usually see them coupled with dehumidifiers in a house. His idea is to mount it outside....I'd suggest an external mount that has a large metal plate for a back wall. Put Deltas in to pull air from INSIDE the house and pass the air across the back side of the metal plate, then pressurize that air with a funnel that leads into the front face of a computer case. This won't eliminate condensation completely but will help.

You might actually want to place a dehumidifer in the setup before the air reaches the case itself....
 
gigabit said:
dont do it you will get condensation and kill your board .I kiled my MSI NEO 2 about 2 weeks ago by running my Window A/C straight into my case.I was gaming for about 2/3 hours and it was runninig great then i shut down and notice the window fogged up a little .So i opened the case and there a slight bit of condensation on some the parts but not bad so i go out and come back an hour latter but no boot up just lights and fans no video..So i switched over to my spare board and she booted right up.My ambient temps were like 12c and cpu was running 22c and 6800nu i have no idea.So i wouldnt do it unless you have prepared for this
Oh man... that's why I've never used the A/C technique. It takes a lot of knowledge to do it, and you'd have to read up a lot to do it. I do give you a round of applause for trying, though. :)
 
g0dM@n said:
Oh man... that's why I've never used the A/C technique. It takes a lot of knowledge to do it, and you'd have to read up a lot to do it. I do give you a round of applause for trying, though. :)

Thanks it was running nice for about 3 days like that .I dont know why i got the condensation that day .I guess maybe the room was warmer than normal.Thats the only thing i can think of.I didnt have it ducted into the case either just had the left side off with the case sitting about 4 inches away from the A/C vent..lol Well needless to say i wont try t again..lol
 
g0dM@n said:
You know, I still don't know what caused my OCZ 600W to crap out. I still seem to blame the board.

I should ask OCZ if they've taken record of how many of their PSUs died with the DFI NF4 boards, and compare them to how they've done on other boards.

You say your 2nd board has been good, except for UTT, but I see BH5 in your sig!

That is a good point you bring up. Both OCZ an surprisingly PC-P&C PSU's have taken a beating with this board! Never heard of either of them blowing up on other boards :confused:

UTT =! BH-5 :)

The Mushkin BH-5 in my sig is searing fast! You saw my results in the sticky. I have had zero problems with these sticks. I have another gig of PC3200 lvl II Blks on the way. :D

Joe,
I don't think manufacturers would risk cutting voltage tolerence levels, the number of RMA's would be humongous! What stands out is the fact that failures have been short term not long term. There is some sort of a safety window on this. I have read about people losing their RAM withing a short period of 2 days to 1 week. Another little titbit is that these people have lost their RAM NOT during continious operation but when the computer was switched on. I do not have a precise dataset to back my conjecture, but gathering data would not be very hard, as plenty is available :)

I'm not really sure what exact parameters set this window, but I believe it exists. What do you think?

I am just guessing here..a wild guess, I believe this has something to do with the PCB as well as the chips.

The lvl II Blk's I believe are on JEDEC standard PCB's not BP ones we see today. I don't know the engineering differences, but I feel this could be a factor as well. Does anybody know if one can get vintage BH-5 on BP PCB's?
 
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gigabit said:
dont do it you will get condensation and kill your board

I got a plan..........:beer:

But I don't want to hijack this thread so I'm going to start my own thread on this project (my first), to be hereafter refered to as "Polar Ice". That way, if anyone wants to give some pointers, or just watch a fool on ice, feel free!
Stay tuned! :welcome:
 
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begin rant
I read this thread three times trying to separate the emotional from the factual. Motherboards and OverClocking ARE very emotional subjects for most of us. So I just had to through in my 2 cents.

I recognize many of the names in this thread. Don't know your faces, but I do know your personalities and have a great deal of respect for most of the posters here. And I mean that sincerely.

Some thoughts on the thread:
I've never been on any IRC channel so I can't comment on it.
I was told the DFI channel was closed 3 days ago due to a security breach.
I was told in various forums in February that the 4V option was extremely dangerous. (And if it was used to insure there was active cooling on the Vdimm MOSFET and the RAM. Never set the 4V line to less than 3.3v. Oskar Wu mentioned that it was imperative that the PSU be unplugged and rig discharged before switching any components.)

I'm aware that some types of RAM were dying (or being killed) on the board.
Generally it was the types mentioned here and I really don't know the answer why.
I'm aware that it just didn't want to boot with some types of memory and smaller power supplies. (Think it sucks a lot of juice at turn-on)

But I have built 5 boards and the only issue I had was my 1st build and I admitted that it was probably my fault. But other that the 1st board, I have had literally no issues. (And yes, I realize that makes me pretty lucky with the kind of abuse I have subjected my rigs to). And the performance of the DFI NF4 LP has really been better than I expected from it.

I use 3 sets of Mushkin PC3200 Black Level II, 1 set of Mushkin PC3500 Black Level II and a set of OCZ PC3200 Gold UTT/BH5. I swap them from rig to rig often using almost identical settings. I run them all at 3.5V 24/7 and I am fully aware that if they die it's probably caused I killed them. Faulty 4V circuit? doesn't really matter cause as deception' says, I'm the one that decided to use it.

A perfect board - well hell no! If it was we'd all be running unbelievable HTT's and it would boot with any type of RAM you inserted and board hot spots would be non-existant. But that just isn't real world. Every component interacts with others in the highly overclocked universe.

What pizzes me off is those of you that state/imply that support for DFI boards at DFI-street is worthless. It's a support forum that tries very hard to help DFI users. Many of the posters in this thread and at DFI-street would take umbrage at an idiotic statement like that. There are all sorts of guides that members have worked very hard on to assist users in maximizing their experiences with the board. So while I respect your right to express yourself about other forums, I can hardly agree with a dumbass statement like that.

Like any forum, it has it's own flavor or members that you may or not like. Probably why so many of us visit different forums in search of finding our perfect place.
end rant

May your clocks be high, your temps low, and Prime95s long
 
soundx98 said:
begin rant
I read this thread three times trying to separate the emotional from the factual. Motherboards and OverClocking ARE very emotional subjects for most of us. So I just had to through in my 2 cents.

I recognize many of the names in this thread. Don't know your faces, but I do know your personalities and have a great deal of respect for most of the posters here. And I mean that sincerely.

Some thoughts on the thread:
I've never been on any IRC channel so I can't comment on it.
I was told the DFI channel was closed 3 days ago due to a security breach.
I was told in various forums in February that the 4V option was extremely dangerous. (And if it was used to insure there was active cooling on the Vdimm MOSFET and the RAM. Never set the 4V line to less than 3.3v. Oskar Wu mentioned that it was imperative that the PSU be unplugged and rig discharged before switching any components.)

I'm aware that some types of RAM were dying (or being killed) on the board.
Generally it was the types mentioned here and I really don't know the answer why.
I'm aware that it just didn't want to boot with some types of memory and smaller power supplies. (Think it sucks a lot of juice at turn-on)

But I have built 5 boards and the only issue I had was my 1st build and I admitted that it was probably my fault. But other that the 1st board, I have had literally no issues. (And yes, I realize that makes me pretty lucky with the kind of abuse I have subjected my rigs to). And the performance of the DFI NF4 LP has really been better than I expected from it.

I use 3 sets of Mushkin PC3200 Black Level II, 1 set of Mushkin PC3500 Black Level II and a set of OCZ PC3200 Gold UTT/BH5. I swap them from rig to rig often using almost identical settings. I run them all at 3.5V 24/7 and I am fully aware that if they die it's probably caused I killed them. Faulty 4V circuit? doesn't really matter cause as deception' says, I'm the one that decided to use it.

A perfect board - well hell no! If it was we'd all be running unbelievable HTT's and it would boot with any type of RAM you inserted and board hot spots would be non-existant. But that just isn't real world. Every component interacts with others in the highly overclocked universe.


What pizzes me off is those of you that state/imply that support for DFI boards at DFI-street is worthless. It's a support forum that tries very hard to help DFI users. Many of the posters in this thread and at DFI-street would take umbrage at an idiotic statement like that. There are all sorts of guides that members have worked very hard on to assist users in maximizing their experiences with the board. So while I respect your right to express yourself about other forums, I can hardly agree with a dumbass statement like that.

Like any forum, it has it's own flavor or members that you may or not like. Probably why so many of us visit different forums in search of finding our perfect place.
end rant

May your clocks be high, your temps low, and Prime95s long

Are you Angry_Games? because he said the same thing about having bh-5 and it working. I'm just mad because he doesn't care and hes blaming user error. IM NOT USING THE 4v JUMPER AND IT STILL DOESN'T WORK RIGHT. He just kept saying that the 4v jumper has its risks but funny thing I'm not using it and still have problems? Also is not having serious problems too much to ask? I don't want a perfect board, I want one that atleast works and I don't really care about the coldboot issue but there are more serious issues at hand. Calling my statements dumbass because I was basically shruged off when the 2 main selling points of this board for a lot of people (1. the 4v jumper and 2. the online forum support) and both are useless at this point. It's a hit or miss with using the 4v jumper and you get treated like an idiot if you ask for help. It is worthless when you are not helped. I'd like to point out a specific example. With dfi, I get talked to like I don't know anything about my computer and that its anything but the DFI board thats causing issues. When I talked to mushkin, they are having me come in to RMA my ram and I'm sitting down with a tech to explain my problem completely and assess if I can do with a new set of redlines or trade in for the 2gb set or the tccd. Which one would you choose?

First, my gfx card fails. Then I start to get wierd cold AND warm boot issues. Then goes my power supply. Now one of my mushkin sticks won't boot at all. Now both sticks don't boot at all. The only thing that hasn't died yet is the DFI board and my HD. Either I got really unlucky (most likely) or something is seriously wrong and I have enough knowledge to put together a computer right and trouble shoot it.

I'm glad DFI has their support because I have found useful info on their forums but dodging answers to questions and talking down to people shouldn't happen. With your logic, its alright to have 2nd rate technical support. Think what you want but any respectable company would not put a board like this on the market and if they did they would recall or atleast man up and RMA everyone's board that has major issues and give them the socalled fixed expert board.

This is just like ford with the cruise control problem. If you used the cruise control, when you hit the break to turn it off, it wouldn't turn off and was causing accidents. It was a problem with the ford explorers Did ford just say, "Ohh well it's their fault. Must have been user error. They shouldn't be using that feature that we put on the car." Hell no. They recalled and repaired all the explorers.
 
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