Yate Loons no good to pair with dual heatercore?

weapon said:

lolz. I was actually more curious about the shroud design than where the light was coming from -- I can't really make out much of the shroud in that pic but it looks interesting.

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here's some pics weapon -
http://users.rcn.com/nanikeala/watercooling/shroud2.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/nanikeala/watercooling/shroud3.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/nanikeala/watercooling/shroudwip.jpg

I used 1/4" bolts and tapped the 'mounting tabs' on each corner of the shroud. The bolts go thru holes in the front of the case and screw into the shroud and sandwiching the h/c. I used black rope caulk to seal the shroud to the h/c. The Global Wins in the pics got switched to the led Yates in the final build.

VballCoach said:

here's some pics weapon -
I used 1/4" bolts and tapped the 'mounting tabs' on each corner of the shroud. The bolts go thru holes in the front of the case and screw into the shroud and sandwiching the h/c. I used black rope caulk to seal the shroud to the h/c. The Global Wins in the pics got switched to the led Yates in the final build.

Click to expand...

that's a nice venturi-style build from plexi. Have you tried mounting the fans on top of the shroud instead of inside of it? That should give you better airflow through a larger area of your 2-342 core, slightly less noise and slightly better coolant temps. Adding a horizontal divider to split the air chamber in the shroud into 2 sections will also smooth out airflow a bit.

VballCoach said:

here's some pics weapon -
http://users.rcn.com/nanikeala/watercooling/shroud2.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/nanikeala/watercooling/shroud3.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/nanikeala/watercooling/shroudwip.jpg

I used 1/4" bolts and tapped the 'mounting tabs' on each corner of the shroud. The bolts go thru holes in the front of the case and screw into the shroud and sandwiching the h/c. I used black rope caulk to seal the shroud to the h/c. The Global Wins in the pics got switched to the led Yates in the final build.

Click to expand...

Coach, what model of heater core is that in the pics?

EDIT: Nevermind, I looked up one post and found the info in Weapon's post. Thanks.

VballCoach said:

here's some pics weapon -
http://users.rcn.com/nanikeala/watercooling/shroud2.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/nanikeala/watercooling/shroud3.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/nanikeala/watercooling/shroudwip.jpg

I used 1/4" bolts and tapped the 'mounting tabs' on each corner of the shroud. The bolts go thru holes in the front of the case and screw into the shroud and sandwiching the h/c. I used black rope caulk to seal the shroud to the h/c. The Global Wins in the pics got switched to the led Yates in the final build.

Click to expand...

I am so glad I found this thread. Vballcoach... what do you use to "glue" the acrylic? Also, how do you cut the holes out for the acrylic without breaking or shredding it? I'm building my own case from scratch... but haven't proceeded beyond the sides. I need to make 8 square holes for 120mm fans and my PSU. Thanks for the help (and sorry for the threadjack)!

jpinard said:

I am so glad I found this thread. Vballcoach... what do you use to "glue" the acrylic? Also, how do you cut the holes out for the acrylic without breaking or shredding it? I'm building my own case from scratch... but haven't proceeded beyond the sides. I need to make 8 square holes for 120mm fans and my PSU. Thanks for the help (and sorry for the threadjack)!

Click to expand...

without a doubt, the best way to glue acrylic is a solvent cement that is designed specifically for the acrylic you are using. I have used IPS Weld On cements quite a bit and they always work well. USplastics also carries several cements for various types of acrylics. Most of them are so thin that they need to be applied with a syringe or plasticator-type dropper.

check these:
usplastics polycarbonate cement (item number 43124 at USplastics.com)
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/va...ory_name=71&product_id=19275&variant_id=43124
another solvent cement (item number 43401 at USplastics.com):
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/va...y_name=25394&product_id=2273&variant_id=43401

application dropper (item number 37524 at usplastics.com):
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/va...y_name=25394&product_id=2288&variant_id=37524
IPS Weld On #3
www.mcmaster.com
search for item # 7528A13

IPS Weld On #16
www.mcmaster.com
search for item # 7515A11

Rundown Weld-On cements for plastics:
Cements form a bond by softening two surfaces and fusing them together. Application temperature range is 70° to 80° F. Operating temperature range varies with application materials (unless noted). Cements dry clear.
Weld-On 3— Formulated to bond acrylic to itself. Will also bond polystyrene, butyrate, PETG, and polycarbonate to themselves. Begins to harden in 30-45 seconds; reaches full strength in 24-48 hours.
Weld-On 4— Slower version of Weld-On 3. Begins to harden in 2-3 minutes; reaches full strength in 24-48 hours.
Weld-On 16— Especially for bonding acrylic, rigid PVC, ABS, polystyrene, butyrate, and polycarbonate to themselves and to each other. Has a higher viscosity than Weld-On 3 and Weld-On 4. Begins to harden in 5-6 minutes; reaches full strength in 24-48 hours. Operating temperature range is -30° to +160° F.
Weld-On 4052— Bonds vinyl, PVC, CPVC, ABS, acrylic, and polystyrene to themselves and to each other. Begins to harden in 15 minutes; reaches full strength in 7 days.
^all of those are available at mcmaster.com

cutting acrylic and getting good edges can be a bit of a task but here are a few methods:
1.score a line with an acrylic cutting blade, snap it along the line and then sand it smooth.
2. mask it heavily with tape and cut on a table saw - some edge smoothing will be required. try different blades for best cutting results.
3. dremel - don't even think about it. Dremel cutting bits move way too fast. The acrylic will melt all over the place and the dremel bit will throw little lava like melted globs of burning hot acrylic at you
4. For cutting larger holes -- drill with a hole saw. mask it heavily, use light pressure and go slow. For drilling smaller holes in acrylic - Plasdrills (i.e. special drill bits designed to drill acrylics without chipping, cracking, etc.) they carry them at usplastics.
5. Jig-saw/saber saw. Mask heavily and use the right blade (i.e. plastic cutting blade).
blades:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog_name=USPlastic&category_name=59&product_id=2304
6. if you have way too much spare cash in your pocket, get a Forrest No-Melt Carbide-Tipped saw blade and mount it in a good table saw. The forrest no-melt blades are around $180-$200 per blade depending on blade size and number of teeth.
7. too much spare cash option #2: Plastic Thermocutter - usually $350 and up...

jpinard said:

I am so glad I found this thread. Vballcoach... what do you use to "glue" the acrylic? Also, how do you cut the holes out for the acrylic without breaking or shredding it? I'm building my own case from scratch... but haven't proceeded beyond the sides. I need to make 8 square holes for 120mm fans and my PSU. Thanks for the help (and sorry for the threadjack)!

Click to expand...

IPS Weld On #3, exactly Weapon.

I used a Roto zip to cut the holes. I made my own 120mm templates by tracing the insides of the fans. Use a Unibit/Stepped bit dril to drill perfect mounting holes..you'll have to drill both sides of the acrylic when using acrylic thicker than 1/4". I also use a lubricant when cutting and go slow...don't get it too hot[smoking].

weapon said:

that's a nice venturi-style build from plexi. Have you tried mounting the fans on top of the shroud instead of inside of it? That should give you better airflow through a larger area of your 2-342 core, slightly less noise and slightly better coolant temps. Adding a horizontal divider to split the air chamber in the shroud into 2 sections will also smooth out airflow a bit.

Click to expand...

I would've put them on the outside but it would have interfered with the tubing route to the pump. There's no room to put a divider in there. if the fans were external I would put a 1/8" thick divider in there. The fans sit 1" off the rad when internal.

what is the recommended space needed from fan to rad, 1" 2" 3"?

Evilsizer said:

what is the recommended space needed from fan to rad, 1" 2" 3"?

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1" is about the bare minimum. Most of my shrouds use around 40mm of standoff which is a good balance between optimizing airflow and space restrictions in most cases. That is 40mm with the fans mounted externally on a venturi-box style shroud. The reason for mounting the fans externally is it helps smooth the airflow through the core and shroud. The internal divider keeps the fans from fighting one another but that applies more to fans mounted to push air through the core rather than pull --it does help a little with a pull config though. Other than the shape of the shroud, the amount of standoff and the divider, you need to tweak the fan cutouts to allow maximum airflow.

example of shroud with ~40mm standoff, internal divider and tweaked fan cutouts:

another mounted to a modded 2-342:

that black like that looks sexy...some transparent uvblue paint