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Zinc is used in sacrifical ways. It absorbs the ions/releases ions. I know. I saw it on Mike Rowe's show on discovery in New Orleans flood doors. I know thats correct, it's Mike and TV.
 
Zinc is used in sacrifical ways. It absorbs the ions/releases ions. I know. I saw it on Mike Rowe's show on discovery in New Orleans flood doors. I know thats correct, it's Mike and TV.

Yep, and aluminum is used to protect the copper of the statue of liberty.
 
In other words, it's used in open systems where the built-up/dissolved metal can be washed away by weather. I have a set of five small brass plugs in my racing wheels that need to be replaced every few years. They're caked with some really nasty stuff at the end of one year, though, stuff I wouldn't want floating around in my loop ... ;)
 
In other words, it's used in open systems where the built-up/dissolved metal can be washed away by weather. I have a set of five small brass plugs in my racing wheels that need to be replaced every few years. They're caked with some really nasty stuff at the end of one year, though, stuff I wouldn't want floating around in my loop ... ;)

Ah, but that's better than your wheel coming apart, and by the same rational , if you put a aluminum anode in your reservoir you can protect your copper and brass parts in your loop from corrosion, when you see it pitted and funky time to change your water.
 
Ah, but that's better than your wheel coming apart, and by the same rational , if you put a aluminum anode in your reservoir you can protect your copper and brass parts in your loop from corrosion, when you see it pitted and funky time to change your water.
The point is, not all that grungy stuff will stay in one place - not with 60+ gallons of water passing it every hour of every day. I don't want that stuff anywhere near my water loop and I sure don't want it inside it. :eek:
My Xbox 360 has a lot of use but I don't replace my brass plugs in my wheels. Should I do that?

Sorry, had to do it...............
LOL!
 
Ultra Pure, Distilled and Deionized are not the same thing.
I do not know all the exact differences but Deionized will cause immediate corrosion when introduced to most metals. Especially Aluminum, copper, brass and steels - It rips Ions out of the metals structure.
To Deionize water you must first distill/filter it to a very pure state.

In the Chemical industry they use SS or plastics to handle DI water. According to a Chemical Engineer friend of mine - You can not drink DI water. It will cause you all kinds of problems (it could possibly kill you).

Distillation does not Deionize water, neither does filtering it to the ultra pure state.


deionised is just basically another stage where the "purified" water is passed through an ION/CASION exchange unit thus deionising. very expensive to produce and pointless to have 20Meg ohm lab grade H20... unless your up to some complex biological experiments :)

and yes its very dangerous for human consumption because the kidneys work on a similar "filter" level the body has no ability to controll how much the organs (kidneys) take on. so stage one is throwing up to reject the fluid... to osmotic shock from the kidneys bloating and taking on the deionised.

(every seen a fish lose its osmotic membrain and bloat with water... it dont look a nice way to go, turning to mush :-/)

anyhow im done with the not so relevant tangent :)
 
The point is, not all that grungy stuff will stay in one place - not with 60+ gallons of water passing it every hour of every day. I don't want that stuff anywhere near my water loop and I sure don't want it inside it. :eek:
LOL!

Ah, but that is exactly what that piece of zinc/aluminum would do, keep it all in one place, on the piece of metal.
 
You give it a whirl and let us know how it turns out ... :)


Well I did a test run on it, got a zinc anode and to speed up the process ran tap water with about half a pound of salt threw my loop for couple of days. The tubing started to go clearer and the the water block got cleaner, I ran some water wetter in the loop previously and it had left a white deposit on everything. I changed out the water and checked the anode and it had turned a little white. I have a few revisions in my loop coming up, a new cpu and mofset block, once those are in and i'm sure it won't leak I miight be adding the salt back into it.
 
I'm more concerned with deposits flaking back off once it starts accumulating. I'm sure the principle is sound enough but whether the deposits can be reliably controlled given our environment (a closed loop with lots of water moving by) is another question entirely. But it's good to know you're trying ...!
 
anodic or cathodic protection in a wc loop would not be benificial imo because the methods work based on static and polarity...causes EMI
anodes burn instead of the metal that they are hooked to ,they act as a ground...
cathodes have a charge supplied to them, the main thing here is to reverse natural magnetic polarity...
did lots of work in this field.......the Alaskan pipeline,IBM plant in florida, and many many gas stations....etc......
 
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