Hose Clamps - Metal v Plastic v Zip

UmHelp · Jul 27, 2007

Valk said:
Meh. the Swiftech ones look nice but I wouldn't trust them for the long term unattended.

you wanted pics. shiny stainless all around.

removed pics.

How is that copper 90 degree bend working for ya. It looks like it doesn't hurt flow all that much. Is the tubing on there really well? I would be kinda scared it might pop off some how.

By the way spring tension clamps rule $4.86 bucks for 10 and you don't have to worry about over tightening them or about them getting miss-shappen

. They are highly reusable and fairly easy to install with some vise-grips. Invest in the vise-grips they are ~8 bucks for a decent pair, and they are a very handy all around tool. If you don't have any.

As for leaving marks on the tubing, well pretty much anything you use will leave a mark on it. I have used zip ties, worm drive clams, spring clamps, and even some thin string, because you need to get them tight to prevent leaks they will all dig into the soft tubing. Whenever I redo my loop I always use fresh tubing anyways, at .71 cents per foot (MasterKleer, very good tubing) there is no reason not to redo the whole system with new tubing (plus you will end up having lots of tubing for side projects). Unless you are redoing your system ever few weeks then 7 bucks once or twice a year isn't really that bad. Tubing is a pain to clean out anyways, not worth dealing with.

With a risk of total system destruction why not pay a little bit extra money to get something that is designed to secure tubing to barb.

eightballrj · Jul 27, 2007

Maviryk said:
Yes, but you're also using dual DDC's and a Storm!

Well, it doesn't really matter. The pressure is due to water's vapor pressure along with the pressure associated friction losses in the tubing. However if you look at a T line with the cap on and the liquid is at a certain level with the pump running, when you remove the cap the liquid level rises very quicky. Anyways, head of dual DDC's in relation to a D5 or single DDC is not THAT much of a difference.

eightballrj · Jul 27, 2007

UmHelp said:
removed pics.

How is that copper 90 degree bend working for ya. It looks like it doesn't hurt flow all that much. Is the tubing on there really well? I would be kinda scared it might pop off some how.

By the way spring tension clamps rule $4.86 bucks for 10 and you don't have to worry about over tightening them or about them getting miss-shappen . They are highly reusable and fairly easy to install with some vise-grips. Invest in the vise-grips they are ~8 bucks for a decent pair, and they are a very handy all around tool. If you don't have any.

As for leaving marks on the tubing, well pretty much anything you use will leave a mark on it. I have used zip ties, worm drive clams, spring clamps, and even some thin string, because you need to get them tight to prevent leaks they will all dig into the soft tubing. Whenever I redo my loop I always use fresh tubing anyways, at .71 cents per foot (MasterKleer, very good tubing) there is no reason not to redo the whole system with new tubing (plus you will end up having lots of tubing for side projects). Unless you are redoing your system ever few weeks then 7 bucks once or twice a year isn't really that bad. Tubing is a pain to clean out anyways, not worth dealing with.

With a risk of total system destruction why not pay a little bit extra money to get something that is designed to secure tubing to barb.

If you notice in the picture that Cu 90deg, he had to expand the tubing quite a bit to get it on there.

About the clamps... like I say it is VERY VERY hard to oval the clamps. You would either have to overtighten them with a ratchet or use them MUCH lower than their rated diameter.

Also, if you get some nice worm gear clamps from McMaster Carr they don't have the perforations in the clamps so they don't mar the tubing.

If you are using plasticizer free tygon the tubing is definately worth keeping. But, Masterkleer is disposable.

Hose Clamps - Metal v Plastic v Zip

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