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peltier case cooling?

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inspectorhammer

Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2002
Location
ohio
OK as strange as it may sound it just might work.

I have a very low watttage pelt - maybe about 40. I also have a pretty big heatsink for it. I got it out of a cheap portable cooler thing from marx.

My idea is to mount the pelt basically even with the case, have the heatsink on the outside, and have a good size sink on the cold side in the case. Then have a fan blowing on it to spread wonderful cool temps throughout.

Sound good to anyone? Believe me all the parts are just sitting here so it wont cost anything.
 
i thought about this befor as well. The only problem is that any cooling you are providing you are either blowing out the back of the case or warming with incoming air. The only way to make this truely practical is to use the largest watt pelt you could find and isulate the case and then just maybe you could reach 1 degree celcuis below ambient. To me it just sounds like trivial persuit. The only thing i could sugest is making a sealed insulated ducting passing air over the cool part of the heatsink and then over your cpu's heatsink. This just might result in a few degree's lower temp, but still the returns are not worth the work to do this.
 
Well, that pelt is going to use a TON of power, causing your power supply to put out a lot more heat. This will overcome any good from the peltier. Also, unless you insulate the case, the cold will be blown right out. And if you DO insulate the case, well, your system will be putting out a whole lot more heat than that peliter can handle. Fans blowing cool air in and hot air out will do a far better job at removing heat.
What you CAN do, however, is try using it on the chipset. This will keep it cooler, allowing the board to reach a higer FSB, at least as long as your memory and other components will work at that fsb. Remember to insulate the area to prevent condensation!
 
i was thinking of doing the same thing, exept put the air cooling heatsink in my water cooler resevoir! it would cool your water like a pro!
 
The results wouldn't be appreciable, but doing it would give you something to waste your spare time on atleast. :D

Unless you are going to use a peltier "the right way" in a chiller or waterblock, it will be a VERY inefficient cooling component. These devices do not work magic like some would expect, they have to be employed correctly.
 
Air pelt's don't work, have never worked, and will never work. Do a search.
 
There has been one account I have seen of an air-cooled pelt chiller working, it is discussed in a recent thread by cathar in the watercooling section and could be found by a search using the terms "pelt chiller" and the username "cathar".

It is by no means a good way to go however when considering econimics or efficiency. :)
 
Toysrme said:
Air pelt's don't work, have never worked, and will never work. Do a search.

They work... but only poorly in most situations.
In processors for example, the processor puts out maybe 70W. The peltier needed to cool it will put out more than that. So the total heat output could be something like 150W.
Heatsinks are designed to effectively remove about 70-100W of heat at the max.

Now if you plan to cool a chipset, between the chipset and the peltier, you might be putting out 40W of heat. That's enough for even a cheap heatsink to handle.
 
yea, you can do an 80 watt pelt with some good air cooling, and it would be fine..i mean, ive seen watercooling systems with worse temps than mine. it all just depends..ya know?

its not really worth it to do that...itd be alot more worthwhile to cut a few more holes in your case..1 little pelt and a heatsink wont do any noticeable change..but adding a 120mm intake, and a 120mm exhaust..that will get the air moving through your case ALOT faster...which is the ideal of course
 
you use an external power supply to power the cooler or coolers insulating the case i would not bother but the issue is how cooling you can get from one of these units two factors come into play the temperature difference the unit they can so if you can get a 40 degree difference at say 80 degrees outside hot summer day on the inside you could get close to a 40 degree drop i would expect a 40 degree unit to deliver 30 degrees due to the next factor that being the max amount of heat they can expel this calculated as watts at 90 percent efficiency so a 600 watt cooler with a 40 degree difference a few units with that total power http://www.rapidtables.com/convert/power/Watt_to_BTU.htm

so you looking at 1800 btu another way to look at this would be take your total system power taken from a wattage meter at the input of the power supply now if you sealed off the case and had say 400 cfm of fans going directing cooled air and air to be cooled back to the coolers and you you either went 1/3 over your total power usage mesaured from the power supply or went 1.5 times your rated power supply you would be fine with this system do not forget to cool the power supply its self if its all sealed or allow for some air to be taken in from outside then cooled and out though the power supply an external power supply is a must for this or the power supply is just gonna add to the heat its doable without an external power supply but i would advise against this way as the power supply is 80 percent efferent so if you ask 600 watts to power your coolers you are gonna get 125 watts in heat from the power supply some of that will be vented out if you could mount the computer power supply outside the case that would be a help as well as a separate 12 volt power supply just for the fans and cooler units they make industrial power supplies normaly set to give 13.8 remove the cover and a little adjustemt or few can be found inside one of them will allow you adjust the voltage of the unit from 11.5 up to 15 once you set this it will stay at that voltage no need to check it again http://www.nitrohouse.com/product.asp?itemid=3712&gclid=CNPlyI2W4b0CFe87Mgodtj4AOw i just might do this for computers on my motor coach but i will have access to a large source of deep cycle batteries so no need for a seprate power supply that will be built into the coach from shore power suplemented by solar panels and the generators if needed
 
you use an external power supply to power the cooler or coolers insulating the case i would not bother but the issue is how cooling you can get from one of these units two factors come into play the temperature difference the unit they can so if you can get a 40 degree difference at say 80 degrees outside hot summer day on the inside you could get close to a 40 degree drop i would expect a 40 degree unit to deliver 30 degrees due to the next factor that being the max amount of heat they can expel this calculated as watts at 90 percent efficiency so a 600 watt cooler with a 40 degree difference a few units with that total power http://www.rapidtables.com/convert/power/Watt_to_BTU.htm

so you looking at 1800 btu another way to look at this would be take your total system power taken from a wattage meter at the input of the power supply now if you sealed off the case and had say 400 cfm of fans going directing cooled air and air to be cooled back to the coolers and you you either went 1/3 over your total power usage mesaured from the power supply or went 1.5 times your rated power supply you would be fine with this system do not forget to cool the power supply its self if its all sealed or allow for some air to be taken in from outside then cooled and out though the power supply an external power supply is a must for this or the power supply is just gonna add to the heat its doable without an external power supply but i would advise against this way as the power supply is 80 percent efferent so if you ask 600 watts to power your coolers you are gonna get 125 watts in heat from the power supply some of that will be vented out if you could mount the computer power supply outside the case that would be a help as well as a separate 12 volt power supply just for the fans and cooler units they make industrial power supplies normaly set to give 13.8 remove the cover and a little adjustemt or few can be found inside one of them will allow you adjust the voltage of the unit from 11.5 up to 15 once you set this it will stay at that voltage no need to check it again http://www.nitrohouse.com/product.asp?itemid=3712&gclid=CNPlyI2W4b0CFe87Mgodtj4AOw i just might do this for computers on my motor coach but i will have access to a large source of deep cycle batteries so no need for a seprate power supply that will be built into the coach from shore power suplemented by solar panels and the generators if needed

Punctuation my man. I can't even read this.
 
While it does add interesting information... as Scotty said: punctuation or at least CrLF :)

We'll overlook resurrecting an 11 year old thread :)
 
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