rive/mve conformal job...couple questions

funsoul · Jun 1, 2014

Hi Folks

Applied a few coats of conformal to my rive and mve but before proceeding, have a couple questions.

Below are pics of the front/back of each motherboard. Everything inside the green rectangles need to have their tops scraped of conformal. Am not sure about the stuff inside the yellow boxes, though as none of those parts is touching a heatsink. Am also not sure if there are any other parts that should be scraped on the top or bottom of either mobo. Thoughts? Just scrape the green? Scrape the yellow, too? Anything else that should be scraped?

Next question....any one know the thickness(es) of the thermal pads on the boards? They're in fine condition but prefer to replace them with nicer. Anyone know or will I just have to eyeball the thicknesses?

tia as always!

Witchdoctor · Jun 1, 2014

Never used conformal coating, but I would say anything that touches a heatsink should be left alone. If it does not I do not see a problem. However I would test them out to make sure they are in working condition and temps are normal.

Good luck bro ......... :thup:

ChanceCoats123 · Jun 1, 2014

I've used conformal before and the way I went about was that anything which left an imprint on the thermal pad of the heatsink needed to be scraped. EVERYTHING else was untouched. You probably could scrape the yellow, but there is no point, and it might lead to unnecessary damage.

That said, to answer your next question, I would just leave the thermal pads alone. I've had the thought of changing them before, but it's never really been necessary. Especially when cold, the heatsinks won't need to be that well attached. The board will help keep them cold.

Bobnova · Jun 1, 2014

Short version is: scrape anything that touches a heatsink, only where it touches a heatsink.
Leave everything else coated.

Slightly longer version: Scrape the tops (only the tops) of all the MOSFETs. Probably not necessary.

Be careful scraping.

funsoul · Jun 1, 2014

Awesome. Green it is. Hope to have my cooling back and test these cold well before July. Still have 2 3930k's to test and a 2500k to work.

funsoul · Jun 2, 2014

Hmmmm....some of the pads are in really bad shape. I need to find out the right thicknesses or I'm going to end up having to eyeball them :/

Anyone know?

Witchdoctor · Jun 2, 2014

Not really sure what the thickness is ?

Quick google search brought these up ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321303608970?lpid=82

Could double them up if you need to

funsoul · Jun 2, 2014

Hiya Witchdoctor!

Yeah...have plenty o' pads (.1, .5 and .25...this stuff) so guess I could eyeball and stack but I feel like pad stacking might be best left for kotex hehehe Looks around 1.5mm but, with my eyeballs, that could be off.

UPDATE: Actually, I take that back. Was eyeballing against .5 not 1mm. Looks like 1.25mm?

funsoul · Jun 4, 2014

Keeping the original thermal tape where possible. On the few spots where it needs replacing, it's all 1mm except for 1 spot where I'll have to stack 1mm + .25mm.

Everything that needs it has been gently scraped clean of conformal. Hope to have both boards re-assembled tonight. Waiting for confirmation that the cascade shipped yesterday but have plenty to keep me busy between now and when it arrives.

funsoul · Jun 4, 2014

Done (and got confirmation that the cascade's on it's way). Woohoo!!

Update: Per ups freight, cascade is scheduled to arrive this Friday!!! Time to finish insulating the rex (already conformaled but still needs frostking, etc) and get a (hopefully decent) cpu loaded and ready to test.

Witchdoctor · Jun 7, 2014

That is some serious Pron :thup:

funsoul · Jun 8, 2014

Thanks Witchdoctor. All revved up and nowhere to go (atm anyway). Doesn't show up in the photos (can see it a bit on the rive) but the conformal coating looks SO nice! Here's the trio of conformaled boards...

Witchdoctor · Jun 8, 2014

Gotta say, the REX just looks bad a$$

Cleaning up my benching area today in preperation for the 19th, don't want you to see what a slob I am, finding stuff I forgot I had ..... lol

funsoul · Jun 8, 2014

They look better in real life...will be bringing at least 2 of them along in July.

Yeah...my benching area's a mess :/

Meathead · Jul 11, 2014

Bobnova said:
Short version is: scrape anything that touches a heatsink, only where it touches a heatsink.
Leave everything else coated.

Slightly longer version: Scrape the tops (only the tops) of all the MOSFETs. Probably not necessary.

Be careful scraping.

I found it easier to use remover and a finely tipped qtips like the ones at microcenter which are tightly wound and do not leave debri like the cheap ones for your ear. Took me all of 2 mintues to remove the tops of all my mosfets. Trick is to just barely get the qtip tip wet with remover.

Heres what I was talking about for qtips : http://www.techni-tool.com/218CH151...UEAMQ&ef_id=U2R4SQAAAU4XOjuo:20140711212624:s

funsoul · Jul 11, 2014

Sweet Meathead! I've got a set of dental tools...one of them was/is perfect for the task.

Plan on putting together a guide and will definitely include your q-tip technique!

Meathead · Jul 11, 2014

funsoul said:
Sweet Meathead! I've got a set of dental tools...one of them was/is perfect for the task.

Plan on putting together a guide and will definitely include your q-tip technique!

Awesome. Just to clarify so your analysis sounds more detailed, I used this product from Newark : http://www.newark.com/techspray/2510-p/conformal-coating-remover-1pint/dp/69K7673?ost=69K7673

Although I'm sure any type will do. I think I settled on that exact type as it was recommended by the manufacturer or some other reliable source.

rive/mve conformal job...couple questions

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