... and the only way to tighten the timings more ( like subs etc ) is to overclock via bclk ... what also has its bad sides as too high bclk and your pcie bus goes down to gen 2 or gen 1 ( and bclk option is not available on most motherboards )
Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!
My 1700 is running 3.7ghz @1.1875. stock cooler or I would look for the limit [emoji14]
I just need a block to go custom loop. Got a rad res and pump from my last build collecting dust. My used Apogee XT rev2 isn't going to get an adapterThat's good clocks. Nice low voltage. What you looking at? 300mhz more from spending big money on a custom water loop?? Or would AIO be adequate for near 4ghz??
That makes sense cooling/clocks wise. We aren't talking a huge range in clocks here. The nice thing is my ipp3000 intake fans tend to behave better when cooling a rad.... They get a bit loud otherwise. Being creative with the fan curve in the Asus software to make it bearable right now.so far I see that difference between lower and the best air cooler is 50MHz so I guess that on water, results will be about the same as on top air cooling
I just need a block to go custom loop. Got a rad res and pump from my last build collecting dust. My used Apogee XT rev2 isn't going to get an adapter
Can't blame swiftech, it is ooooooooold [emoji14]
Plus waiting on my CM212 Evo bracket to come in. The ultimate goal is 3.9-4ghz. don't know if the voltages will hold for that. Want to keep it as far under 1.45V as possible.
I was looking at the guidance from AMD, 1.35V is fine, 24/7. 1.45V is ok... But reduced life.Now if these where my chips..... and they are not... I would venture to say a realistic voltage for 14nm FinFet would be 1.3v or less and get what you can from it. Diminishing returns that quick is not a good outlook.
You are probably right. I'm still gonna get a block, but maybe then I could enjoy a near silent rig @3.7ghz!Yea not worth it for a couple hundred mhz really. If it scaled better say 500mhz for that .3v+ jump might it be suitable. 3.7ghz is a good number imo. Easy to keep cool.
I seem to think a good AIO is more than adequate for these cpus. I'm running a Corsair h110i and my load temps under prime never get higher than 55c on my 1700@ 3.9zGhz with it seeing a 1.3v vcore.That's good clocks. Nice low voltage. What you looking at? 300mhz more from spending big money on a custom water loop?? Or would AIO be adequate for near 4ghz??
I would like to hear if your other Gaming 3 shuts down, post back the results.It's working alright in the Asus Prime. I still have to bump the voltage to 1.4, and it fails to boot sometimes, but it's otherwise stable. I got sick of swapping the CPU out, so I've just been running on the Prime for a few days. I'll switch back to the Gigabyte tomorrow or the next day and see if the problem still exists with a BIOS update. If so, I'll send it back. (I actually have a second Gaming 3 to try, so I could try a comparison and see if it's only on the one board).
Personally I'm a little doubtful that most chips can do 3.8 GHz on 1.2v. 3.7 GHz on mine requires 1.2125, and even that is reported as actually being 1.245v in CPU-Z (probably due to LLC setting). For people claiming to hit 3.8 GHz with only 1.2v, I take it with a bit of a grain of salt. Some might have a good chip, some might not have actually tested for stability (some people's idea of stability testing is to run a few tests for 5-10 minutes, and then see that it doesn't crash in games), some might not realize their motherboard is applying an LLC setting which is pushing their voltage up much higher than 1.2, and so on.
I doubt it's working stable at 3.8GHz and real 1.20V when stock is ~1.25V for ~3.2-3.4GHz. When you enable all power saving stuff then voltage is going down but under load it won't run stable at so low voltage. Load voltage will be at least 0.05V higher and in most cases even more. Stock is 1.25-1.40V and it's automatically changing when all power saving options are enabled and are working.
I see that some users are reporting 1.2V 3.7-3.8GHz and then 1.4V 3.9-4.0GHz or complain about instability at more than 3.9GHz. It's just too big difference so or reading is wrong or reported voltages are in idle state and enabled power saving.
My ASUS is reporting that stock voltage for 1700X is 1.35V.
I disagree with you slightly here woomack, particularly with the 3.2-3.4ghz range needing 1.25V. Mine is P95 2hrs stable, 3.7ghz @ bios set 1.1875, LLC 1 (actual load is 1.1875-1.2(ish)). For my CPU, and cooling(Wraith Spire) I still have a smidge of thermal headroom before starting into the 75C instability region, but it gets gobbled up and then some if I try for 3.8.
That makes sense. Thanks for expanding/explaining. What bios are you running? 502?I didn't say 1.25V is required but it's stock voltage. Other thing is that software is not always reading all values correctly and you can see that in various BIOS revisions like when 0502 is showing lower temps and has more stable voltages than 0504.
I haven't seen any instability up to ~85*C. I see that the biggest issue is that each 50-100MHz step requires +0.03-0.05V and after 2-3 steps are starting problems with overheating. Every 100MHz up to 4.5GHz I had to set 0.05V more.