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SOLVED Learn me on insulating my chiller/system...

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ElimGarak

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Aug 18, 2014
Location
Salt Lake City
My only two waterblox-
MOBO - ASUS Max VI Impact (Full board watercool)
GPU- EVGA 03G-P4-3888-KR G-SYNC Support GeForce GTX 780 Ti Classified K|NGP|N Edition (Watercooled)

I know I should cover the tubing, both from the chiller to the chassis, and internally, but do the blocks need to be covered with insulation also?

Does it matter if I have acrylic showing the internals of the blox, or should I go black acetal?

Thanks for edumacating me...
 
If you're chilling an amount that makes having a chiller worthwhile, you need to insulate the hoses, the blocks, the GPU(s), the motherboard, and the CPU around the socket.

If you're chilling to ambient -5°C, whether you need to insulate or not will depend on the humidity where you are. It's also a staggering waste of money.
 
I have a lot of threads because I have lots of questions...What if I wanted to chill down to mid-40 or lower? How thick would the insulation have to be? I live in SLC, so the humidity isn't bad, unless the swamp cooler is going....

Edit- OK, if it is such a bad idea, AND a huge waste of money, help me understand how I can get what I want (120.3 w/ push-pull) with good flow rates and still have it portable/not break loose when I move it....

I really do want to understand...please help me.
 
+40F

-40 would require LN2 or something similar...

Edit @ Bobnova- I had no idea it was that involved, esp for LN....
 
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Living in Utah, there are times when humidity is high enough to cause problems, though usually it is low. If this will run long periods of times and temperatures are colder than ambient air temperatures it would be best to insulate. Look at the worst case scenario when making your decision whether to insulate or not.

Edit: at 40f you will get condensation on anything that is not insulated. If temps are sustained for long enough time periods, water would accumulate and cause problems. I would say that a 24/7 chiller at 40 f would have to insulate as well as ln2 users or maybe even better. Ln2 temps cause ice, which doesn't conduct electricity like water in liquid form. The longer time frame will really cause issues.
 
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Due to unpopular demand I decided to not go with the chiller- too many knowledgeable people thought it was a bad idea. So, it's gone.

But thank you for your input, all of you.
 
You bet!

Should you want to get into extreme cooling, we're happy to help with that. It's just not a good 24/7 thing is all.
Plus side: Trying out Dry Ice (-79°c) is far cheaper than that chiller :D
 
I don't advise any mobility really when it comes to water cooling or anything other than air cooling but if you must, you must. :D

If you decide to go with watercooling, you could go mobile and have a external say a MORA3 or Phobya 120.9 with a housing for the pump and reservoir while using QDC's to connect to the rig.

Something like this...........

14aklf5.jpg

Or this..............

maxresdefault.jpg
 
Jack, I thought about it, but I didn't need anything that big, and I didn't want a case that is ZIPCode large (the one I have is already too big)...that sure is pretty though....

Edit- how plausible is this for an external solution?: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2..._-_Copper_Fins_33302.html?tl=g30c95s667#blank

Or is this just as bad as my chiller idea?

Edit #2 - And before I get jumped on, I choose this rad because it is easier to stash that by my PC than a 120.9 setup....
 
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IMO if you're looking for portability, go air.
Internal water is much more portable than external water, but you still have to be very careful of the angles the case is at when you're transporting it, plus any kind of drop can be lethal.
Anything external is going to be a pain to transport IMO.
What I would do is buy a used TRUE (Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme) or Megahalems or some other Big Tower Cooler, and see if that's enough cooling for you.
If it's not you can always upgrade later and you'll only be out $30-$90, rather than finding out that a $400 (or {much} more) water cooling loop isn't to your liking.

Now that said, I rather like that tower thing you linked. No clue how well it works, and it'd be a pain to transport, but I like the concept a lot.
 
I know the rad is extremely overpowered, but I do plan on having a 3 or 4 SLI sometime in the near-ish future, plus it is more portable/small than a 120.9 (which I have no space for right now).

I also don't have the desire/time/$ to build a new air-cooled gamer rig, and a stay-at-home WC....but perhaps I can't have portability and WC in the same package....That's why I ask so many questions, because I want to make it work...
 
The Asus Max VI Impact only has one PCIe slot though. Multi-GPU SLI could be a bit tricky with it.
 
I mean that sometime I would change to a larger MOBO. Smart guy! :D

That would be something to see- 1 PCI-e running 2 or more VGA...
 
It's possible... 295x2... TitanZ... 2 gpu's on one pcb/slot. ;)

This build is so odd.. I mean is a lan rig really a watercooled multi gpu monster? You need to choose between ease of portability and monumental overkill. ;)
 
EarthDog said:
It's possible... 295x2... TitanZ... 2 gpu's on one pcb/slot. ;)

This build is so odd.. I mean is a lan rig really a watercooled multi gpu monster? You need to choose between ease of portability and monumental overkill. ;)
Click to expand...

I just want a WC LAN PC...That's all. Maybe I am asking too much....


I certainly am not looking for a multi-GPU behemoth...but if I can get a really good single GPU (or a rad, or pumps, etc) that I can use in a later WC build, that's what I'm gonna do. I'm a big believer in future-proofing.
 
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