Cryo Z refrigerant question

Lately my Cryo Z SS is only pullling 40 C max when it just a week ago was pulling down 60 easily. I don't think there is a leak as the 40 is consistant over several days the condenser is also dust free as is the fan. From this I concluding it needs charged.

Question is can I use one of those DYI refridgerant cans from the auto parts store? I can't find any specs on the type used by my unit. Is it safe to assume that in the days of no more freon that the same type of refridgerant is used across the board or would I have to bleeed of the system in order to use one of those DYI kits?

I found a review that says the Cryo Z SS uses R507 refrigerant. If you add R134a to it, or replace it w/ 134a, you will not cool as well. That's the only refrigerant I've seen on shelves in little cans. The R507 probably only comes in a 25lb cylinder.

Could the warmer ambient temps now that weather is warming up be a factor? I know that I have to increase air circulation around my ss when it warms up.

Even if the refrigerant is R134, I wouldn't add any hoping to get the charge right. It has to be tuned so as to not return liquid refrigerant to the compressor or return too little vapor/lubrication.

Measure the suction line temperature as well as the evaporator temperature. To measure the suction line temperature, find the line on the compressor that's insulated, carefully pull back the insulation just enough to insert a thermocouple probe a few inches. Then let the unit run for a while.

That will let you get the superheat reading without tapping into the lines. Getting a subcool reading would be harder, but you can try measuring the temperature of one of the middle tubes on the condenser along with the liquid line temperature.

I retract my previous statement that there is no leak there must be a small one b/c now it's only pulling down about 25C. So now what? I don't think I can take it to my local HVAC guy. Maybe he can fix it if I demonstrate how it works.

how would that get a superheat reading ???
With out knowing the saturation temprature all that will tell him is the line temp ... you need to put the gauges on and see what the pressure is, in the middle of the gauge there are a set of temps that will give you the saturation temps at that particular pressure, then that suctionline temp difference would be you super heat reading

Bottom line here Opty is there are three things that can be going on

1. Ambient temps are warmer and are effecting the the die temps and should be considered normal as touchupon above

2. if you have recently reset the die you may not have as good of contact. try to reseat

3. you have a leak in the system

Note refrigerant does not wear out or get old, it is forever, that is why it is a controlled substance. if the charge was correct and it is low there is a leak period

507 is expensive, you simply can not change refrigerants, you may have to change the oil in the compresor to use a different type of refigerant.

best bet is to get a local refigeration company to add refrigerant for you that will charge you a bit of labor and sell the refigernat by the ounce.

Just hope it is not in the condensor coil as fixing that is a long shot and would more than likly need a condensor replacment

See under the ice, Ron can hook you up I am sure. if it is in an easy spot to repair then simply make the repair and charge, once it is vacuumed and holding at 50 mics for two hours insert 125 PSI of 507 with the unit off, this will get you in the park and dial in from there

The evaporator (most of it anyways) will cool down to the saturation temperature of the refrigerant boiling in it. In practice, it ends up very closely to the value you would get with a pressure reading and referencing a PT chart. Actually, unless you own a very good (and expensive) set of gauges, it would likely get you a more accurate reading. Many inverter driven systems use that method to get the superheat reading and adjust the (electronically adjusted) expansion valve without needing an expensive pressure sensor.

The subcooling measurement is harder to get with temperature measurements alone since you'll have to locate a point on the condenser where the refrigerant inside is in a saturated state. In practice, one of the end tubes near the middle of the condenser would get a reasonable measurement.

A liquid line temperature measurement by itself and the ambient temperature measurement can also be used to tell if the condenser is dirty or otherwise not have enough airflow.

Thanks for the explanation.

I have never used that method to obtain a super heat reading. I will check this out and cross reference it to see how accurate it is as I have some very nice gauges and am confident in their accuracy. From the OP's last post I take he has confirmed a leak, that's a drag.

Hopefully he can nail it down and it is in a place where a repair can be made easily

I think is at the die. Funny thing is it frosts over like crazy so wonder it it's the thermostat.

Where is it frosting at? If it is an abnormal place, it could indicate a blockage.

OptyTrooper said:

I think is at the die. Funny thing is it frosts over like crazy so wonder it it's the thermostat.

Click to expand...

Does it read with a Ktype ?

if so can you just unplug it and stick in on an EXTECH to confirm temps ?

It's frostin the socket just find

I noticeda strang thing on my 6300 rig it pullls down just fine but on my 775 no go. It'd kid hard to seat it on the 775. Going have to figure out a alternative.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...x_20mm_x_08mm.html?tl=g8c487s2034&id=rLQ5rjXD

will help with load in Prime 1024m as well

How would I clear a blocked line?

OptyTrooper said:

How would I clear a blocked line?

Click to expand...

A blocked refrigerant line ?

Not sure I understand there should be nothing in a refrigeration loop that would cause that
Or are you referring to a kink in the line ?

I would message one of the builders that are over at xs in the phase change area. You also may send funsoul a pm to see who he is communicating with about his SS and cascade.

You need a thermometer and need to figure out exactly what is going on. Are temps ok at light load, but at heavy load? I guess a clearer statement about what you exact problem is, would help. I don't know about that exact unit, but it could be an electrical issue or a refrigeration system issue. Most anything to do with the compressor or refrigerant lines etc, will need to be repaired by a pro.

Yeah temps increase over light load e.g. charging but once it gets to about -24c it takes forever.

-24c to -30c is about all the real cold you're likely to get out of a cryo-z anyway I think. The temp readout on the unit itself is..... dubious.

The thing it used to read -60 now it reads -30 if I'm lucky. I'm think it a thermostat isse as the socket frosts up quite nicley. Aside from that it takes forver to reach -30 where as before it took maybe 5 minutes. I took it apart and there are 2 clamps that hold the hose to the to evap perhpas one has come loose.