***Volt Mod's For AsRock SataII***

Is this correct, if I want to take a volt reading from different mobo parts with multimeter do I use black cable on molex to ground?

RAA said:

Is this correct, if I want to take a volt reading from different mobo parts with multimeter do I use black cable on molex to ground?

Click to expand...

yes. black to any black molex, and read w/ red. make sure you have set it to DC. DO NOT SET IT ON AMP READING. will fry the point you testing.

OK, I became daring and modded the winbond to be able to read vdimm and vldt in MBM5.
the pins to mod are pin94 (-5v)and pin95(-12v) of winbond. Notice that this mobo has not connected any traces to those 2 pins, and what you read in Everest, MBM5 (before the mod) are what the internal voltages of winbond are. Read the PDF file (~pg24-40 I think) and you will see.
Winbond pins are small and tightly spaced. You have to be very careful and delicate lifting these 2 pins up. I used an unused exacto knife blade and carefully lifted one pin at the time. If you prey gently the blade where the pin is soldered to board it will separate from solder,easy does it. When the pin is separated, gently lift it. twist it a little so the 2 pins (94 and 95) have more space between them and level w/ the surface of winbond. Strip 2 wire lines of an IDE cable and expose each end about 2 mm. I use IDE cable individual wires (stripped from the cable) because the wire is thin and does not use much solder or current. solder one end to pin94 and the other end to vldt read point as the picture shows.
do the same for vdimm read point, solder to pin 95.
VLDT read mod
Use MBM5 and choose w83627HF Standard 5 setting of MBM5, to be able to see correct vdimm and vldt. Notice Everest will change to some arbitrary voltage readings for -5v and -12v. they are incorrect, and MBM5 correctly show these 2 new readings. as you can see below.
MBM5 Dashboard
Winbond W833627HF PDF file

EDIT: The pins are located on the edge side of mobo to left. counting from left to right are 8th and 9th pins

EDIT: Had to solder a 22K resistor between vdimm read point and winbond to correct the MBM5 vdimm reading. MBM5 is about.07v off(higher) and this resistor will correct it. you might have to use a vmeter and caliberate yours accordingly. should be between 20 to 30k resistor depending how much MBM5 is off.

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RISK YOU TAKE PERFORMING THIS MOD. THIS MOD REQUIRE PRECESSION
AND YOU MAY DESTROY WINBOND CHIP IF NOT CAREFUL. DON'T DO IT IF NOT COMFORTABLE W/ IT

Nicely done I dont think I will be doing this but I guess if I decide to take the board back out of the case I may. I will have to stick with the MM reading for more

Updated original post to show above post.

I need to do vdimm mod cause XMS3200C2 needs 2.75. Took reading, getting 2.70 exactly so I only need a little bump. It's prime and SuperPI32M stable but I have had couple of CTD in D3D so fairly sure it's vdimm.

I could do 3.2v mod but that seems a bit much for my needs! I have CH-6 which doesn't overclock well at all even with high volts. So I was wondering if I could put some kind of resistor for 3.2v mod in between solder points.

2.85v would be fine, so what resistor can you recommend and is there one on this site http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=resistor&doy=3m4&source=15 ?? I can drive out to this store so would be great if they have a suitable resistor.

I could do trimmer mod but I only need a set voltage above 2.75, don't need to change it once it's done.

I would do it with a trimmer that way you can have up to 3.07 at hand.

I think using a resistor or VR at that location might be a problem w/ Amperage. It may reduces the vdimm amp and do harm than good. the VR or a plain resistor should be where the ref volt is read by the regulator (near the IDE sockets). The OCW or TechPowerUp are 2 mods that work well. The TechPowerUp uses a VR. what I did was to solder a wire on each end of the #2 resistor (techpowerup photo) and the other ends to a Homemade VR. You can use a 10K VR w/ my method and have a variable vdimm from 2.72 to 3.07 volts. Screenshot

Ok thanks for that info.

So I will try the VR mod. I put one wire exactly where it says Pin9 and the other on ground right?

Second thoughts it will be simpler for me to put a 500 Ohm resistor instead of VR. I'm not gonig to OC RAM cause it won't OC lol I got plenty of speed from 2 3 3 6 1T. 500 Ohm on normal is 2.85 that'll do nicely.

I'm complete novice with terminology on matters of physics. On this site http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=resistor&doy=3m4&source=15 they have many resistors but none seem to give Ohm values. Do you know which one I can use for this.. ?

Do you have an electronic store where you live.?
Need to pick up a 1/4 w 500 ohm. the one's I see there are high wattage and may not work. Find one that is not more than .5 watts.
1K=1000 ohm
500 ohm =.5k R. make sure it says 500 ohm not 500 K.

I found this one ..

Min Res 470R Information:
Min Resistor 470RMetal Film 0.6W

• Working voltage max.: 250V
• Tolerance: 1%
• Power rating: 0.6W at 708C
• Temp. coefficient: 50ppm/8C
• Dimensions: 6.5mm x 2.5mm dia.

So is 470R 0.47K? 0.6W though.. !

RAA said:

I found this one ..

Min Res 470R Information:
Min Resistor 470RMetal Film 0.6W

• Working voltage max.: 250V
• Tolerance: 1%
• Power rating: 0.6W at 708C
• Temp. coefficient: 50ppm/8C
• Dimensions: 6.5mm x 2.5mm dia.

So is 470R 0.47K? 0.6W though.. !

Click to expand...

Yes that should work. where are you going to solder to?
use the #2 resistor (marked 122 on top) in the photo. it should give you a final R of 337 ohm which will increase vdimm to 2.88-2.90v (may vary by 10% depending on mobo).
If you could find a 1/4 watt resistor is better since it is smaller and wont draw much current. Just make sure you know what you are doing. I suggest going to ThechPowerUp and ask the moderator about their vdimm mod and what you are intending to do w/ it (variation of their mod). They know better than I, your modification of their's and can make suggestion to you.

I asked but no one's answered yet so think i'll go ahead and mod it. Only thing is now you've confused me by saying use resistor #2 [122], isn't one end supposed to be on pin9 and the other gnd? If you think #2 is where it's soldered then I guess I solder it on any metal part of that resistor?

And when you say 'won't draw as much current' why is this a bad thing? Will it damage anything being too high?

They don't mention anything about current..

Be 100% sure of yourself before doing any mod's.

I would suggest the smd to pin 9 then ground mod with VR.

You dont want to draw to much current thru small components.

I think what OCH was saying was to soldier your resistor on top of the resistor with a 2 on it and 122 on the physical resistor here http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/130/images/vdimm2.jpg

Jonspd

RAA said:

I asked but no one's answered yet so think i'll go ahead and mod it. Only thing is now you've confused me by saying use resistor #2 [122], isn't one end supposed to be on pin9 and the other gnd? If you think #2 is where it's soldered then I guess I solder it on any metal part of that resistor?

And when you say 'won't draw as much current' why is this a bad thing? Will it damage anything being too high?

They don't mention anything about current..

Click to expand...

well those resistors are part of the vdimm regulator and their current by design is very low. If you use a high amp resistor, you might not get the right reading or right vdimm voltage.
The VR TechPowerUp is suggesting has a value from 0 to 500ohm(or close to it). It is hard to know what value it is using when you are turning the knob.
Another word, 300 ohm may be giving you 2.90 vdimm but the max out to 500 may just be too much resistor value and too small vdimm(specially when one leg is grounded).
This is why I suggested the #2 resistor (in photo). Because that's the one I did and know at what value I get what vdimm. But I dont know what you would end up if just soldering a fixed 500 ohm resistor in place of VR that TechPower is using. why I suggested checking w/ them.
And I would be careful w/ it because you are draining the current by grounding it.

All of resisitors on that site are 0.6W @708C, i'm sure if they could have lower watt resistors they would have them cause they are leading electronics supplier!

What does 708C mean, maybe when I solder it it will use less than 708C and so have lower W. As you can tell I have no idea what i'm talking about.

I'm gonner go buy a few things, this Cermet Preset Potentiometers might do the job, 0.3W 100R to 500R. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2200&criteria=resistor&doy=5m4

I get 470R and 330R resistors too then when I get back maybe you can say which is best to use.. probably the Potentiometer. But I really have no clue which legs go to what so i'll need further advice when I get back.

I'd prefer to use maybe the 330R resistor cause it's less likely to fail. If you think 0.6W @708C is no good then i'll use the Potentiometer.

Many thanks for advice so far.

I got to say it's slightly rediculous that this board doesn't go up to at least 2.9v. Might aswell have it go to 3.3v and be done with it, it's not their fault if a customer fries their RAM! I mean it's not about support for overclockers it's about support for wide range of components!

Right, got 500R POT.

It has three legs, a central one which also has the screw for varying Ohm, and then a leg either side of it which aren't connected visually to center leg at all.

So my questions are, which leg goes to what and why are there three legs instead of two? Also, how do I know which direction is 500Ohm and which direction is less.. must be center leg at top then clockwise for max Ohm?

Oh crap.. this is too complicated.

Here's a pic of it..



There's like an arrow on the blue plastic bit which points towards center leg, center leg is one far right on that pic.

RAA said:

Right, got 500R POT.

It has three legs, a central one which also has the screw for varying Ohm, and then a leg either side of it which aren't connected visually to center leg at all.

So my questions are, which leg goes to what and why are there three legs instead of two? Also, how do I know which direction is 500Ohm and which direction is less.. must be center leg at top then clockwise for max Ohm?

Oh crap.. this is too complicated.

Here's a pic of it..

There's like an arrow on the blue plastic bit which points towards center leg, center leg is one far right on that pic.

Click to expand...

the middle leg is called wiper. In this case you attach the wiper to ground and you will have variable "values" @ the other 2 legs. depending how the knob is turned you will have higher value in one leg and lower value in other.
if the knob is all the way turned toward left leg that leg will be close to ground (max drain, max resistance). the third leg in this mod is useless and you can just cut it off. I suggest to turn the knob to 1/2 way to be in mid range. Just be careful w/ those pods because they are very fragile and short quickly if keep playing w/ it. they are only good for a few turns and gradually loose it if playing w/ the knob at your leasure.
here is some learning on the trimmers.
http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm#intro

Perfect, thanks ochungry..

I will give this a shot tomorrow night. I'll leave it at center, cut right leg off and solder left leg to Pin9, center leg to gnd. Leave bios on Normal, see what reading I get then turn trimmer either more or less reistance until it's right.

Hey Guys,

Forgive the intrusion........I read most of what you guys do with these boards and it's really neat! I have enough trouble turning my computer off and on and you guys re-engineer the circuitry! RT

OC? No, I'm not going there!

RollingThunder said:

Hey Guys,

Forgive the intrusion........I read most of what you guys do with these boards and it's really neat! I have enough trouble turning my computer off and on and you guys re-engineer the circuitry! RT

OC? No, I'm not going there!

Click to expand...

We would really be p.. off'ed if you come to this thread and do nothing.
come-on RT, its time

RAA, Good luck. let us know how you'r doing