How does this sound H2O? (Newbie Proposed Setup)

Hi all,
Thanks to a few on this & other boards, i have given up on the idea of buying a Swiftech Q Power case & will go with a custom built setup.

Oh, do i need a res? I only see them mentioned sometimes.

Ok, Here we go (please comment): (Some prices are estimated)

Case: ANTEC SX1040BII -400wPSU- Cost $115 shipped
Pre-Modded Window (no fan hole) - $41 shipped

D-Tek Pro-Core (radiator/shroud) - $62 shipped

Enermax Adjustable 12CM Case Fan - $63 shipped (4 of them)
2 for exhaust, 1 for intake, 1 for radiator. All will be set on low speeds for quiet (maybe)

Eheim 1048 Pump (can I fit 1/2 fittings on it?) - $67 Shipped
or
Eheim 1250 Pump (I think this already has 1/2) - $75 Shipped
QUESTION - is to much Flow a bad thing? Meaning is there a reason not to get the 1250 pump? I plan to start with only cpu WC'ing & expand later.

Tygon Tubing 1/2 - $32 Shipped

Misc Clamps & brackets - $25 shipped
QUESTION can I get these nylon brackets locally in a hardware store, or are these special order items? Or can i use standard brass fittings? Does poly conduct less heat?

CPU Block -

Either Maze3 Lucite (can this be used for either p4 or amd?) - $52
or
Poly Topped Copper Spir@l Waterblock - 63
QUESTION what is the difference between chrome, brass, or poly for the barbs? Is one better than another, or is it just looks?


I think thats it (please let me know if I am missing something, the total cost would be around 476 shipped (on the high end) plus a pretty decent learning experience and hopefully better stuff than a Q Power.

Thanks,
Rich

Sorry, I thought i would add. I also will be getting a :

Swiftech PRS Kit for Eheim pumps (thats what makes it turn on with the PC right?)

I was also wondering what the "Swiftech F&B Kit" does. Is that something that is needed?

A couple of things. First, there is no reason to not buy the 1250 except maybe cost... more flow is never bad, though that's not the only reason that the 1250 is the better pump. Second, buy all of your fittings, hose clamps, etc. locally, as it will save you much money. Finally, whether or not you use chrome, brass, nylon or poly (or PVC or ABS) as your material of choice for fittings is a matter of preference, and cost, and convenience... with regards to the block though, it's simply aesthetics.

One more thing... make your own shroud. All you need are some tin snips, a punch riveter, a drill, a piece of tin (scavenge around, or buy some... we're talking about the stuff that ducts in a house are made from) and some common sense... it's really quite easy, and you'll be glad you kept your $18 for candy, or gas, or whatever else.

So there is no problem to use brass 1/2 NPT fittings in this setup, if I needed to get that stuff locally? As far as hose clamps, can you use a standard metal 1/2 clamp for it, or will that damage the tubing?

Yup, there's no problem using brass barbs bought locally. Those metal hose clamps are fine too, though they will chew up the tubing a bit if you put them on really tight, but it's nothing to worry about, especially if you're using thickwall tubing.

richklein said:

Tygon Tubing 1/2 - $32 Shipped

Misc Clamps & brackets - $25 shipped
QUESTION can I get these nylon brackets locally in a hardware store

Either Maze3 Lucite (can this be used for either p4 or amd?) - $52 or Poly Topped Copper Spir@l Waterblock

Click to expand...

Tygon is cheapest from usplastics.com and they have good customer service. Depending on where you live, you might want to phone in the order and have them send it USPS (to save $)

Clamps - 4 for $2 at k-mart check the auto section.

Spir@l block - it has higher flow, and the top is polycarbonate. I just picked mine up from Danny (the guy that runs dtek) and the block is very thick and heavy. It's quality construction.

Oh yeah, you might want to check out the aquavia 1300 pump. it's only $20 and it works well.

-Oh, do i need a res? I only see them mentioned sometimes.
A small res is good.
You may loose small amounts of water, but really its resevoir use is not needed. The good thing it does do though, is act as a air trap, and easy way to fill the system.
A small res, that is taller than wide, with a screw on lid, works well.

-Pre-Modded Window (no fan hole) - $41 shipped
Sure ya want that? If you have the supplies, I suggest doing it by hand. Of course, that may not look quiet as nice, but, you did it yourself, and DIY stuff is always good to show off=)

-D-Tek Pro-Core (radiator/shroud) - $62 shipped
Is that the Heater Core?
If so, good choice. But, if you have the supplies, try making the shroud yourself. Much cheaper. Might not look as nice though.


-QUESTION - is to much Flow a bad thing? Meaning is there a reason not to get the 1250 pump? I plan to start with only cpu WC'ing & expand later.
As already said, more is almost always better.
Well, more can be worse, but thats if its one big sucka that is loud and noisy, and its really not bad because the noise.

QUESTION Does poly conduct less heat?
Fittings dont need to conduct heats, as a switch from all brass to all plastic, wouldnt change your temps more than like .1*C.
And I suggest gettng all fitting locally, unless you need Y's.
You prob don't need Y's now, but if you later want to run something in parrellel, you do. I can not find these things anywhere but online.

So, the Swiftech F&B Kit (fill & bleed), is that something I need? Or can I just make my own with a brass fitting coming out of the rad or somewhere within the system?

A fill and bled tube is probably one of the easiest things you could do. Mine is just a T and a tube with a on off valve. Costed me a total of about $1.50.

Skulemate said:

A couple of things. First, there is no reason to not buy the 1250 except maybe cost... more flow is never bad, though that's not the only reason that the 1250 is the better pump.

Click to expand...

Actually, more flow can be a bad thing if it puts out more heat (watts) into the water. The 1048 is a better pick because it only puts out 10w of heat into the sys. I wouldn,t worry about the flow that much.
With all the flow retrictions inside a watercooling setup, you'd be lucky to get 30 GHP.

Also, the size of the 1048 compared to a 1250 is a big diff. He would have a much easier time to fit a 1048 into his antec Case than a 1250.

BTW
I'd recommend getting 3/8" tygon(10 feet is more than enough) . This way you get less retrictions which creates less heat. By fitting 3/8" tubing over 1/2" barbs you get a true 3/8" system.
The 1048 has 1/2" fittings on it...so it fits perfectly.

b8ng8

While that is true, it really is a matter of optimization, and not really an easy question to answer without some better data. However, you are right, a bigger pump is not always beneficial in a watercooling setup.

b8ng8 said:

I'd recommend getting 3/8" tygon(10 feet is more than enough) . This way you get less retrictions which creates less heat. By fitting 3/8" tubing over 1/2" barbs you get a true 3/8" system.
The 1048 has 1/2" fittings on it...so it fits perfectly.

Click to expand...

He's right. Even if you have 1/2" barbs the holes inside the barbs are not 1/2". However I still got the 1/2" ID (inner diameter) tygon because someone else posted that by having the larger tubing there is less resistriction overall even though there are choke points in the system where the hole is only 3/8". This was the specs on the tubing I would recommend if you decide to go 1/2" ID:

Clear Tubing For Chemcials 1/2" I.D. 11/16" O.D. and 3/32" wall. Product #57120. Like I said before, either way USPlastics has the cheapest prices.

Oh and another reason some people don't get resevoirs is that they "disrupt flow". or so they would have you believe....lol jk it does. Anyways, if you put in some UV dye it looks really sick. It's up to you.

i too got 1/2 and they fir pretty snug on my barbs.
32$ shipped? ouch.

go here
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=112261

it should come out around 10-12$ shipped for 10 feet.

Starfoxer - Here is a big THANK YOU!!! What a bargin.

Starfoxer said:

i too got 1/2 and they fir pretty snug on my barbs.
32$ shipped? ouch.

go here
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=112261

it should come out around 10-12$ shipped for 10 feet.

Click to expand...

Wow!! that is an awesome deal, screw USplastics (even though they are very pleasent to deal with). McMasters doesn't have the thicker walled stuff but if you don't have any bends then it's a great deal. Is this tygon brand tygon (formulation r3603)?