[richklein]

Well, in the wee hours of the morning I finished everything up & leak tested. The pump was leaking a bit & I did an extra 10 wraps of teflon tape & now no leaks (going on 10 hours).

When I tilt the case on its side, i am still getting some air bubbles though so I guess the bleeding process is still in the works.

I have tilted the case every which way & I think it is running out of air. I will be able to tell in a few hours I guess (is that normal?)

Anyway, here are the pics:





This was alot more fun that buying one off the shelf.

[nikhsub1]

Looks great! To get the air out of that swifty, lay the puter down so the barbs on the block are facing UP, then gently tap the block and tilt the case slightly. Let us know what temps your getting when it;s all bled out. Nice job!

[richklein]

Well, it seems to be mostly, if not completely bled out. No leakage which is good, but my temps are about identical to my aircooling before.

I was getting 50-52 idle & 58-60 load with a Swiftech MCX462 heatsink & about 8 fans.

Now I have a total of 4 fans & I idle at 48C.

I have an Asus A7V-266E motherboard & an XP1900 OC'ed to an XP2000. That is what I have been running for months. I am really confused.

I get an identical reading from MBM5 & Asus Probe. I have already retightened the block & now have all fans running full speed ahead.

I guess my next step will be to see how high the temps get under full load (using Toast).

Any ideas ? Is my mobo sensor screwy?

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by richklein
Well, it seems to be mostly, if not completely bled out. No leakage which is good, but my temps are about identical to my aircooling before.

I was getting 50-52 idle & 58-60 load with a Swiftech MCX462 heatsink & about 8 fans.

Now I have a total of 4 fans & I idle at 48C.

If your board gets temps from the insocke thermistor (which I believe it does) it is not uncommon for temps to acutually read HIGHER when you switch to H20. The reason for this phenomenom is the insocket probe relies on airflow from the HSF to gauge temps, since you no longer have an HSF there is less airflow around the socket. Trust me, your temps are probably 10C lower than before.

[richklein]

So, what could I purchase to get an acurate temp reading?

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by richklein
So, what could I purchase to get an acurate temp reading?

You could buy one of Hoot's Diode readers (I believe this entails soldering on the mobo) or you could get a mobo that supports such readings like the new Epox boards or the Asus A7V333.

[richklein]

I have been thinking about getting a new board for a while. I also want to pick up some Corsair 3000 DDR too. My current board cant really do much above 150fsb.

Maybe this is a good excuse to do something like that.

I just have always heard that the Asus Mobos really stink in regards to an accurate temp reading.

Does that digi doc read temps accurately?

The block itself feels pretty cool.

The temps I am getting are:

49-50 idle
53-54 load (toast)

Not that bad considering I typically would lock up after an hour of toast. I just wish I had a more accurate reading of the temps.

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by richklein
I have been thinking about getting a new board for a while. I also want to pick up some Corsair 3000 DDR too. My current board cant really do much above 150fsb.

Maybe this is a good excuse to do something like that.

I just have always heard that the Asus Mobos really stink in regards to an accurate temp reading.

Does that digi doc read temps accurately?

The block itself feels pretty cool.

The temps I am getting are:

49-50 idle
53-54 load (toast)

Not that bad considering I typically would lock up after an hour of toast. I just wish I had a more accurate reading of the temps.

Digidocs cant read temps INSIDE THE CORE, they can report temps on the outside wall of the core, not really meaningful either. The A7V333 reads the on die sensor, it is accurate. So do the new Epox boards.

[[EG]~NaTz~]

wow thats cool try lapping ur core i did it. it got rid of some of that stupid amd writing on the core... ...mauhahahaha stilll air cooled thoguh workng on wc right now

[richklein]

Would it be insane to upgrade the board due to the temperature readings? I have done some reading & the A7V-266E is notorious for false temp readings. I have heard that its off anywhere from 7-10 degrees.

I guess that would put me somewhere around 39-42 idle & 45-48 load.

I just would love to see that it is actually the case that I have lower temps. They just dont seem all that much different from the aircooling setup I had. Granted it is MUCH quieter than before.

On my Girlfriends PC, she has an XP1700 & the same mobo as me. She gets 60c idle & 68c load. She has never had any problems but the temps scare the heck out of me.

Anyway, would i be nuts to buy an asus or epox board just for the sake of temps (probably get ram too for OC'ing)?

Thanks,
RIch

[bongo]

I noticed that your intake tube on the pump looks like its going a long way around your case.
You might want to shorten the distance of the circut.

Also make sure you get all the air outta the heatercore. They like to keep fairly large air pockets in the tanks if you don't shake em out well.

Hmmm, I don't know what else is keeping you on the high side. You really should be getting loweer temps with your setup.
I assume your using AS2 or AS3. They need about a week or two to settle under a waterblock. This might give you 2-4C lower.
(Did you apply a thin enough coat of it, sometimes too much AS can increase temps.)

Fianlly try and lap your Waterblock wiith some 600 grit paper for about 30 min.

[richklein]

I think that the air is almost completely out now. My idle temps dropped to 47c. There seems to be no difference in temps with the cover on or off.

I noticed that your intake tube on the pump looks like its going a long way around your case.

How critical is this? The length of tubing was about 1.5 feet (roughly). I left a little slack so that I would be able to swap mobos without draining the entire system (or draining at all).

I could possible shave off some tubing if it is absolutely nessessary. I just dont want to go through all the trouble of doing it if my temp sensor is wacked to begin with.

What do you think?

[dem1an]

i'm in the exact same boat as you. i finished my watercooling setup and i'm getting 44C temps when doing web browsing - low load kinds of things. i have a 1.33 oc to 1.5 with a KK266R. i hoped to see much lower temps. there seems to be no air. i reseated the block. i've got a little bit more tubing than you do since my rad is at the top. no air in my system.

[rivercom9]

Hey nikhsub1, what Epox boards use an on die temp reader? Does the 8K3A+ utilize such a feature?

[bongo]

The 8k3a+ has a on diode temp sensor. Its really accurate. JUst one of many features that makes this a killer board.

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by rivercom9
Hey nikhsub1, what Epox boards use an on die temp reader? Does the 8K3A+ utilize such a feature?

Yeah, what b8ng8 said!

[adamtekh]

yes a new mobo would be best along with new ram later on. u never know, i found out that my micron pc 2100 can run @ 200 mhz with cl 2.5 setings and 2.8 vdimm

[wymjym]

Originally posted by adamtekh
yes a new mobo would be best along with new ram later on. u never know, i found out that my micron pc 2100 can run @ 200 mhz with cl 2.5 setings and 2.8 vdimm

So your pci is at like 40?
wj

[EgeWorks]

I didn't know about the airflow from heat sink fans impacting the temp reading...makes my WC seem so much more worth it(P4B-533 = dodgy board).

BTW, dem1an I've got about as much tubing in my setup as you've got in yours. Top mounted rads are a pain

edit: nice job richklein!

[tseongsun]

Originally posted by b8ng8

Also make sure you get all the air outta the heatercore. They like to keep fairly large air pockets in the tanks if you don't shake em out well.

Yeah, if you shake your core and it sounds like there's water in there (it makes a slooshing sound)... you have air in it. Try tilting it all different ways and even upside down. Even now I still don't believe my rad is fully bled... that darn thing. lol. Anyways, I bet you can probably get at least one good 2" long bubble out of it