Can a 1.4 T-Bird OC to 1700????

I have mine currently running stable at 1622 (141*11.5) @ 2.02v. I want 1700. Has anyone done this and had it run stable? Suggestions? I tried upping the multiplier to 12 but couldn't get Win to boot above a bus setting of 138.

CPU: 1.4 T-Bird AYHJA OC Stable @ 1622 (11.5*141) 2.02v
MB: Epox 8K7A+
PSU: 430W Enermax EGP465P-VE
HDD: WD 40GB ATA100 7200RPM
RAM: 1GB (2*512MB) Mushkin Hi Perf DDR PC2100
Drives: 10DVD, 40x12x48CD-RW, 1.44Flop
Dual Display:
· Video1: ATI Radeon 64MB DDR VIVO (AGP)
· Video2: ATI Xpert 128 Pro (PCI)
Display: Dual 19" Mag Innovision 986FS
Sound: SB Live Plat 5.1 w/Live Drive
OS: WIN XP Home
Temps: CPU = 42c idle, 44-46c load // Case = 26c steady // Ambient/room = 26c +/- 2c
Case: ATX Full Tower
Cooling:
· Case:
o 80mm intake front
o var spd 120mm exhaust back (through radiator)
· AGP: OEM Epox 8K7A+ chipset cooler (Arctic Alumina)
· Chipset: Crystal Orb (ASII)
· CPU: H2O Cooled
o Maze 2 WB (Lapped to 1500 grit, used ASII)
o Eheim 1250 Pump
o 3/8ID, 5/8OD braided clear hose
o DangerDen Super Cube radiator
o 216oz H2O (8.5oz WaterWetter)

Yes, I did on a water cooled (with bong) setup. It ran a touch over 1.7Ghz though possible more interesting is it would post at 1.85ghz. Seems there was room for improvement. Took 2.33v and the chip still serves as a backup to this day.

Ahh....the voltage. I was figuring on having to up the VCore a bit - just wasn't sure how much it could take.

I'll work on it and post my results. Thanks.

bensonjv said:

I have mine currently running stable at 1622 (141*11.5) @ 2.02v. I want 1700. Has anyone done this and had it run stable?

Click to expand...

About a year ago I was running a 1.4 @ 1.65 GHz (11 x 150 MHz) on a volt modded Shuttle AK31. The core was at 2.05V and a Thermalright SK6 and 40 CFM fan kept the temp below 47C under load.

who knows maybe maybe not , but i was suprised to find that i can run @ 7.5 x 200 when it gets a bit cooler for temps( winter )

maybe i should envest in some better ram , and cooling , posible volt mod this and try to get 210 220 fsb

i do belive a couple ppl have goten to the 1700 area but normaly with pelts and more volts than u.

u can always check out the cpu data base , but i think most ppl were using axia stepings

edit: just looked and alot of ppl were hiting 1700 mhz and even 1800 mhz and some into the 1900 mhz area

somem of this must be takeing with a grain of salt their is alot of BS in the cpu data bases

You will never see 1.7 on that bird unless your on water.If you do it on air let me know I got a 1.4 @1.605 on air.

jszent said:

You will never see 1.7 on that bird unless your on water.If you do it on air let me know I got a 1.4 @1.605 on air.

Click to expand...

Heck, would'nt hardly do 1.5 on air. Water took it over 1.7.

My specs are at the first post - I am using water.

Something interesting I learned last night - My MB has Dip switches for the multiplier. I set it to 12.5 according to the manual but when it boots, the BIOS says 13. While it would go through POST, it would not load Windows at 133. I suppose I could dumb down the FSB to 130 or less to get at 1700 or below but then my bus speeds are too low for the overclock to be of any real value except to say I hit the 1700 mark. I'll keep trying and let you know.

I knew the Dip switches were there - the part I just learned was that 12.5 in the book == 13 on the MB.

I think with the heatsinks now like the SLK800 will really cool the 1.4 Tbird since before it produced so much heat and with the low quality heatsink it was a problem.

ben, overclock as much as you can using FSB than up the multiplier. FSB is front side bus which will overclock everything in the system increasing your memory bus and increasing the bandwidth and performance in the system. Clock speed doesn't mean much.

Your board also has like voltages up to like 2.2v I think stock at least I heard that came from a person using that board.

If you have problems, up the voltage of your ram. With good airflow, maxing out the voltage shouldn't be a problem. 2.85v is safe as long as you have some sort of airflow.

The 266fsb version of the T-Bird came factory unlocked, so if you have the 266fsb version you will have no problem just using the switches of if it has it in the bios, you can change through there. If you have the 200fsb version (Which I doubt), you have to link the L1's parallel to each other using a pencil to unlock the multipliers.

Yodums

By Joe, you are running water. Good, makes things easier. I had an 8k7a (and still do). Found the vmod on it to be marginal at best and ended up going back to the abit Kt7a until I could get a board that I could put 2.3v or so to the core. This ended up being the Ak31 by shuttle. A simple vmod and I could get 2.4v to the core. Max I ever ran at was 2.35v. All of this was on the T-bird 1.4. Got 1.73Ghz on it at 2.33v. As memory serves me you are not going to get that kind of voltage on that board. This is compounded to some extent by the closed loop system. Temps will not fall below ambient on it.

Thanks all. Yes, I do have the 266 version - unlocked. It was funny, when I bought it I did not know much about overclocking and purchased based upon advice of a friend. It was chance I suppose that I got an AYHJA "Y" core. I purchased based upon price and had no idea about core types, their overclockability, etc.

I have ambitions of upgrading in the future. However, it seems silly to do so when this setup still offers acceptible performance. But I'm antsy - which might explain the overclocking binge I'm on.

Silver, I think you are right, 2.2 or 2.3 is the max core voltage setting. I tried upping both that and the ram volts but I only got some weird stuff on the screen instead of the POST screen. Although I must admit I have tried only a fraction of the combinations. I'll keep trying.

I have some new waterblocks enroute - got one for the northbridge too this time - want to hush up the Crystal Orb that's on there now. Its frustrating to have a WC system that whirs with fan noise. Anyway, maybe with AS3 and a couple new water blocks, I'll hit my mark.

I'll post results when I get some.

Thanks again all.

Silver said:

By Joe, you are running water. Good, makes things easier. I had an 8k7a (and still do). Found the vmod on it to be marginal at best and ended up going back to the abit Kt7a until I could get a board that I could put 2.3v or so to the core. This ended up being the Ak31 by shuttle. A simple vmod and I could get 2.4v to the core. Max I ever ran at was 2.35v. All of this was on the T-bird 1.4. Got 1.73Ghz on it at 2.33v. As memory serves me you are not going to get that kind of voltage on that board. This is compounded to some extent by the closed loop system. Temps will not fall below ambient on it.

Click to expand...

I have both those boards too. IMO the 8k7a is a better board. being air-cooled I haven't tried past 2.25 and now have a resistor inline with my potenmeter so it will never go above 2.1v but that could be easily changed by raising vcore by means of the jumpers right now jumpers are set to default so theoretically I could have 2.5v max by setting jumpers to highest +.4v