[strokeside]

I was reading the article on the main page, and I thought of something. Instead of the coil evaporator, what would happen if you soldered the capiliary tube into a hollow metal cube, and soldered the cude to a line leading to the compressor?

This cube would be about 1"x1"x1/2" in inside measurements. This would be attached to the CPU and would allow the refrigerant to expand and absorb the CPU's heat that would be in the cube. The evaporated gas would then be sucked into the compressor.

Would this work like a vapochill/prometia, or is there some physics thing that would not allow this?

[aenigma]

Yep that would work, you could make it better of course.Probably work pretty good if you have a nice system so you can have alot of liquid boiling in the evaporator block.
Little 1/4 inch channels would probably work better.If you have a mill or drill press you could get creative

[BOWMAN1964]

waste of time my friend....i have made one just like you are speaking about.i used a 1 1/8" round copper plug with a hollow center.used the capillary tube to spray freon directly in the center.

did it work?????? yes
did it cool???????unloaded yes
did it cool loaded..................................no way.it would barely keep it below freezing.thats when i started designing the block i use today.i found that for a direct die evap block you need lots of surface area.that means lots of small channels.
here is a pic of one of my first proto types.as you can see it gets very cold unloaded.but put a amd cpu on there and you have something not much better than water cooled.

[BOWMAN1964]

well i thought i would show you what the block started of as being.this block was 1 1/8" in diameter and 2 " tall with a 7/8" internal cavity

[Mizuno]

How do vapochill, cyrotek and prometia pull this off then? Their blocks always look a little small in MHO, it doesnt look like they use multiple channels for the coolant to travel through as was suggested. What if you insulated the majority of the evaporator tube leading to your block, so that the heat would be forced to be sucked out of one place- the block, and hence the CPU? Or if you put an extra copper copper block between the coolant block and the CPU as a buffer zone? Just shooting out ideas, anyone think any of this would help?

[berkut_PL]

Originally posted by BOWMAN1964
well i thought i would show you what the block started of as being.this block was 1 1/8" in diameter and 2 " tall with a 7/8" internal cavity

my block looks very similar, but its base plate is 5x5x0.5cm and there are 57x8cm long fins in it (made from power cords, 1.5mm id diameter)

[strokeside]

What if you used a block such that there were many small tubes
that coolant had to pass through in order to get to the other side (and hence the exit point) of the block, say 20 (4 rows by 5 holes)
each hole being 2mm diameter, and 1" long. You would be able to create the block with a minimum size of 1" high, and 2" square (when you take into acount the inlet and outlet chambers).
This would provide a lot of surface area for the liquid to vapourise on.

Also, would you be able to use strong bolts instead of having to solder the block together (aassuning it comes in two parts)???

[BOWMAN1964]

Originally posted by Mizuno
How do vapochill, cyrotek and prometia pull this off then? Their blocks always look a little small in MHO, it doesnt look like they use multiple channels for the coolant to travel through as was suggested. What if you insulated the majority of the evaporator tube leading to your block, so that the heat would be forced to be sucked out of one place- the block, and hence the CPU? Or if you put an extra copper copper block between the coolant block and the CPU as a buffer zone? Just shooting out ideas, anyone think any of this would help?

well for one the vapo uses a series of channels inside the block.
but this is also why vapo's dont cool as well as some,because they dont have enought surface area...the new ones have a better evap i am told.
the prometia uses a maze design block like mine but smaller.small maze with small channel,works real well for average use.
cyrotek not sure of havent seen theres but they got out of the market because of cost.the best design was the maxexxpert unit.these units are the coldest but they had bad design flaws and alot failed because there evaporators would leak after time as mine did until i redesigned mine with a differant assembly proccess.the maxexxpert like mine runs at a low temo of well below -40 it would run as low as -50c at idle and as i found out the extreeme cold causes the block to try to flex as the temp goes up and down causing the solder joints to leak after a few days or weeks.
this is mine

[Mizuno]

Do you think that one of the danger den maze blocks would be sufficient, or should I try to manufacture my own block? Also, besides the block, how much evaporator tubing might i need? The compressor I have is from an old office water bubbler. I'd give you the HP rating, but I'm at college right now, and the bubbler is at home. It's probably not more than 1/2 HP.

[strokeside]

BOWMAN1964, if you used a multi channelled spiral maze block, it should give enough surface area. If you used a lot of solder, would it still give way after a few weeks due to the expansion and contraction of the metal?

Here's another question, what if you switch of your PC, but leave the compressore going. Would the CPU temp would drop really low, such that liquid in the evaporator didn't evaporate, and then liquid might get sucked into the compressor?Would this be bad?

I figure I have spent at least 6 months designing and plannig my watercooling/pelt rig, so I may as well start planning my Phase-Change rig (as it's only a matter of time before I want one).

What is the melting temp. of your solder that you use don your block? What composition is the solder?

[TLKfatman]

Here's another question, what if you switch of your PC, but leave the compressore going. Would the CPU temp would drop really low, such that liquid in the evaporator didn't evaporate, and then liquid might get sucked into the compressor?Would this be bad?

the anser is yes it would be bad

a way to prevent this is it use an acumulator (a place for liquid freon to puddle till it turns to a gas)

or just make your suction line long enuff and suction line pressure low enuff so u dont need one

[BOWMAN1964]

BOWMAN1964, if you used a multi channelled spiral maze block, it should give enough surface area. If you used a lot of solder, would it still give way after a few weeks due to the expansion and contraction of the metal?

WELL TO BE HONEST IF YOU PURCHACED A GOOD MULTI CHANNEL WATER BLOCK IT SHOULD WORK PRETTY WELL AS LONG AS IT HAD LOTS OF CHANNELS AND THE FREON HAD TO PASS THROUGH THEM .THIS MIGHT NOT BE AS EFFECIENT AS MINE OR A WEL DESIGNED ONE ,BUT I THINK IT WOULD WORK WELL ENOUGH .
SECOND TLKfatman IS RIGHT ABOUT THE RETURN LIQUID BEING BAD THIS IS VERY BAD FOR THE COMPRESSOR.BUT I SUGEST YOU WRAP EXTRA LINE AROUND THE COMPRESSOR.THIS DOES TWO INPORTANT THINGS.ONE BOILS OFF ALL REMAINING COOLANT AND 2 HELPS COOL THE COMPRESSOR IN THE PROCESS.

IF YOU WANT TO KEEP UP WITH MY LATEST COMPRESOR COOLER I AM BUILDING KEEP CHECKING THESE WEB PAGES.

http://www.phase-change.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=4327

[Mizuno]

Would an automotive radiator stand up to the pressure if I used it as a condensor?

[TLKfatman]

if u mean a radiator
no it is desined for a max pressure of 35
an ac high side runs at 150 -300 psi

[strokeside]

If you designed a system like the prometia, with the phase-change unit on the bottom, you would need to use some thing to stop the possibility of the liquid not evapourating and just sliding down the pipe to the intake of the compressor.
Maybe this is why Vapochill have done their's with the unit on the top?

Is it possible to emtpy the coolant from a normal freezer system, then change the condensor and evaporator by cutting off and soldering on, then recharging the system?
(basically are normal fridge/freezers dischargable/rechargable?)

[TLKfatman]

Is it possible to emtpy the coolant from a normal freezer system, then change the condensor and evaporator by cutting off and soldering on, then recharging the system?

ya not a problem

should make sure it is all pressure tested to make sure no leaks
and holds a vac but thats up to u

an acumulator is basicly a cetch pan for liquid freon they use them in cars all the time

[Warlord2]

hey can you somehow make a acumulator out of some bigger coppor tubing? I was just thinking about it, the only reason I see that you wouldnt work is I heard you need someway to return the oil if its taped in the acumulator to the compressor, is this right?

[TLKfatman]

well to tell u the truth freon likes the oil it is matted with and in vapor form will bond with oil particals and carry them back to the compressor

so if u did like BOWMAN1964 said and rapped the compressor starting at the bottom and working your way up to the top then go to the suction to compressor it should do the tric

to bild an acumulator u would have a round (or any shap) cilender (seald all around) with a partition in the middle so suction would come into the top and go out the top and have space for liquid to pool at the bottom so it has a chance to boil off.

[Penguin4x4]

Originally posted by BOWMAN1964

the best design was the maxexxpert unit.these units are the coldest but they had bad design flaws and alot failed because there evaporators would leak after time as mine did until i redesigned mine with a differant assembly proccess.

So they could cool better than a Prometia if assembled better(with better parts??)??

[berkut_PL]

Bowman, how do you polish you block so its so shiny inside? You use steel wool or nitric acid?