[tft]

I'm starting the plan out my phase change setup, and I'm wondering what to do for a block. Can I use my dd maze-2? Would getting one built, or following a different type of design get much better results? Are phase-change blocks even commercially avaliabe? If not, does anyone here have the ability to make a good block, and how much would it cost.

Thanks

[Warlord2]

Ive been told you can use the maze1 and maze 2 but the maze 3 wont hold the pressure with that plexiglass. He said you wont get the best of temps but it will work.

[aenigma]

Yep the lucite doesnt hold pressure too good
The maze1 is a piece of ****, and it cant hold 100psi because the monkeys at dangerden cant solder.I dont know about the maze2.I wouldnt even mess with dangerden if you want something of quality for a phase change system.

[tft]

should I get one made or try to make my own? I guess from what you said, I technically can use me maze-2 but its not a good idea.

[aenigma]

Originally posted by tft
should I get one made or try to make my own? I guess from what you said, I technically can use me maze-2 but its not a good idea.

I am in the same boat.If you have access to any cool stuff like a drill press, try and make your own.Or if you know someone that could do it, see if they can make you one.Or look around for a nice wb...

[strokeside]

Don't forget to get/make a block with lots of surface ( a lot more then a normal "high-surface area" waterblock) and long enough channels, so all the coolant can evap. to give best temps.

[ssjwizard]

you can make one with a torch some copper bar and a dremel if you have the time. cut it down into2x3 pieces 1/2 or 3/4" thick you need atleast 2 and a top 1/8" should be acceptable. for the bottom all you want is a square maze pattern utilise as much of the block as you can you want your walls to be 1/8ish" thick use as much of the block as you can. now for the 2nd piece do the same thing only you want to stop cutting about 1/2" from the edge on the final pass so you have a place for the capilary tube to go through. now your going to want to sand the bottom of the top block down nice and flat and now use a clamp to hold them togeather and braze the seam. drill the hole for the capilary tube to go through slide that into place and braze it. then make the top on the final pass this is where you atach your suction line. to cut the croves in the channles use one of those green grinding wheels

[tft]

Thanks for the replis guys, this is starting to look a lot more doable
Just a few questions:
I heard about putting the capillary line inside the suction because it give better temps. It this too hard for a first timer to do, or does it really make a difference?
With the water-block design, I should cut channels into both the top and the bottom? They would have to match up right? Also should I have the capillary line going directly onto the center of the block, so (using the same princple of that design as a wb) the freon hits the hot spot directly and I get slightly better cooling.
One last question, should I have the maze leading directly from the capillary to the suction, ie, only one path?

Thanks for all the relpies and help guys.

Ps, does anyone know of a place where I can order some metal for this (other than dangerden)

[The Overclocker]

the best waterblock for the job would probably be a swiftec - they are well built so you will get no problems with seals and they are open inside which works well for phase changce because a increase in tube size forces evaporation - although you should know that

[ssjwizard]

yes though they are open they dont have enough contact area inside of the block. onlinemetals.com will even do custom cuts for you with a flat rate shipping no matter how much you order.

[Warlord2]

I hear some of the spiral blocks are good, donno how true this is but there supposed to have greater surface area or something like that.

[[EG]~NaTz~]

well if u think about it the spiral is one continuos round channel would give a good evap property maybe...

[ssjwizard]

most water blocks dont have enough surface area for a realy low phase cooler C/W. they will work but your temps wont be as good.

[BOWMAN1964]

listen if you want to buy a block for evap use.
#1 get a maze design or spiral with narrow passages.
#2 no poly topped units only good metal capped one.

i am thinking about start to make a few for some people.maybe not sure .i know i am one of only a handfull who have actally done it ,but i am designing a new one and if i can i will designing and testing in the next couple of months.all depending on my spare time.

[Warlord2]

that would be cool if you can send us your prototypes, there are only a couple of us going with direct die

[dmitriyaz]

Originally posted by ssjwizard
yes though they are open they dont have enough contact area inside of the block. onlinemetals.com will even do custom cuts for you with a flat rate shipping no matter how much you order.

flat rate, eh?
do you know how much they charge?
by the way, i live about 250 miles away from where they are located, if that makes any difference...

[ssjwizard]

yea from what i hear they charge a flat 9 dollars for shipping wether it would only cost 2 or 50 dollars to ship. they have a decent set of prices.

[dmitriyaz]

only 9 dollars?
even if i order a truckload?
i like the prices, as well as the selection on the site.
nine dollars flat would be the icing on the cake
thanks

[BOWMAN1964]

Originally posted by Warlord2
that would be cool if you can send us your prototypes, there are only a couple of us going with direct die

one thing eveyone should know up front about direct die evap blocks.
THIS IS NOT EASY TO DO.
one of the biggest problems i had designing a block that would work and not leak after a week was making sure i had a stable and stiff assm.you ask what am i talking about? well it you plan on running as cold as i already am which in it self is hard enough.when i started going below -40 to -50c i started having problems with the blocks flexing when the extreeme cold and warm up cycle started and stopped.after a week of running they will break the solded joints.if all you need are sub -30c or so temps you can get by with almost any well made water block but, below -40 and down THEY ALL WILL FAIL AND LEAK.
i had to make a very complicated block with interlocking parts to aid in keeping the block from flexing during thermal expansion.
so this in itself is way alot of companys have so much trouble selling units that hold up.
i am working on some prototypes now but problem with mass useage is coming up with a way of connecting the hi and low side lines that eveyone can work from.to make them universal i will proberlly lose some of my cooling ability.

[tft]

Cool, cool, Thanks for the info guys. Now I'm kind of weary about buying a block pre-made. I'm just wondering if you're supposed to silver solder everything in your phase-change setup, including the block. Also, when making a block (which I'll probably do) the more channels you have the better? How narrow should you make them (what if they were about 2x the size of the capillary tube?)