2 unsuccessful unlocks

I have the CPU in my sig. I have tried to unlock it twice, using a white-out pen, and an Auto window defogger repair kit. Both time I will UNlock it successfully. I wil change the multis and fsb. It iwll be running great. Then I will eventually reboot my computer. After rebooting it once (first time) and rebooting it a few times after the second time, they unlocks seemed to become null and void.

I cant really remember what happened. I think each time the computer did not boot up. Then i cleared CMOS and rebooted. I then was no longer able to change mulitplier.

Now I am just OC'ing with it locked, which really sucks. I really wanted to take advantage of the 1/5 divisor. Any suggestions?

yea... i ran into this too,

upon closer inspection, it looks like if you make contact with the little L1 label or the arrow next to it, it can mess up your stuff. i had to redo it all today for the same reason.
i will report back tomarrow if it does it again...

I'm not sure a white out pen would be the best substance to fill your pit because it can be easily removed... For instance, put some on paper and when it dries you can use your nails to scratch it off. Also remember that area is hot so it may even heat up the thing.

On another note, have you tried scratching the L1's with a pin or something because they most likely have a protective coat on them whether it's brown or green -- I've seen both fail numerous times on an unlock because there was that coat. Or you can take high grit sandpaper (1000+) and sand it for like seconds...

Yodums

White out works fine here.
On a CPU, it's not on a flat surface, it's "filling" a grove.

Dries hard and is not conductive.

Stay at it, it took me 2 hrs to get mine right with a
10x jewelers scope.

my .02

I had the same problem. Just keep at it.
I finnaly got in on my 5th try.
Hint: acetone is your friend.

Yeah the defogger paint takes a little practice...
Just make sure each connection doesnt touch any other points than it should, and once you have the bridges painted sucessfully you want to cover them with clear tape and let the proc sit for a while.

btw: The whiteout is fine for filling the gapps

Yea, white out seems to fill the pits pretty good. I know that the bridges surfaces are clean so that they make good contacts. I scratch them with my finger nail, rub it good with an eraser, and use alcohol pads (same application as acetone in this instance). I guess I should keep going.

I made my own pits (scracthed them in with a needle) inbetween the bridges that are side by side, so so as to make my own barrier... make connecting the bridges a little safer.

-YB

DO I need to isolate the first L1 from the L1 label? I've tried twice and I only have a choice between 8,8.5,10 and 10.5... very odd. I guess at this point though I'd just unlock if for the status LOL, I'm satisfied with 173x10 = 1730MHz and the prospect of 1848+ w/ better cooling.

Yes, I think would definately recommend u isolate it from the L1 label... just think about it. If U didnt then data would be flowing stray towards the label, and u comp prolly wouldnt boot.

Well, I can tell you right now that it boots with silver epoxy on the L1 label... cause I allowed myself to get messy on the top and bottom bridges.