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What water block to use on a PHASE-CHANGE system???

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S

SoNgOkO

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Hello!!

I am building an direct die PHASE-CHANGE system. Before i start putting the parts together i need to know where to get a good water block??? Which is a good WB for phase change or is it better to build a WB??? Has anyone good any pics on how a phase chenge block is suppose to look???


Thanx
 
you will probably have to make your own or have someone make one as almost all commercial blocks can't handle the pressure.
maybe soldered copper.
 
would a block, bolted togehter & epoxied, be good enough, as far as being able to withstand the pressures?

how much pressure is there anyway?
 
I would say about 100psi, epoxy wont work because at cold temps it looses all strange and cracks off. Some solders doesnt even hold up well with the temps going from hot to cold all the time.
 
Has anyone got any schematics/plans of a WB for phase change? How is the block suppose to look?? What are the demensiones of a normal WB for a AMD T-bird??? Has anyone any schematics/plans for a normal WB???? What must the patter in the block look like ( for Phase-change WB)??? Can i use a normal maze pattern??? What is with the evaporator?? Should the evaporator be built into the WB???
 
ok heres the thing. any water bock will work aslong as it can take the preasure... others work beter than some beacouse of extra channel surface. ok so if your going to make your own you need to have alot of surface area pattern doesnt realy matter and a high temp soldered top. silver bearing solder at a minamum. i can get back to you with the exac dimensions bu off the top of my head its like 66x38mm
 
The maze1 is tested at 1000psi, but dont fall for that sack of lies.It leaked at like 100psi.Not a good block for direct die, maze3 with a brazed on top should do alright though.
 
a modified waterblock will work and maby quite well. However, it will not be a match for a home made evap block. the reason for this is 2 things. the first is surface area. Water is more efficent at transfering heat than freon, or whatever you use. this is because freon is a gas and is tons less dense than water. the second is where the liquid freon enters the block. the ideal location is right over the core. you might not get this with all waterblocks. If you don't feal up to maching a evap, look for a waterblock with lots of internal surface area and the inlet right over the core. braze some fitting on and you are all set. BOWMAN has a very good article with some excelent design here. http://www.phase-change.com/index.php?action=Articles_page&cat=Guides&id=23&page=1 I came acrost an article a while back where a dude made a direct die system with some crappy waterblock, a dehumidifier compressor, and some rubber hose. he had -40 something before the hose got cold and cracked. hope this helps
 
Not quite.Surface area isn't important because "freon" is better at transferring heat than water.It is a liquid, not a gas.It changes into a gas because it boils, the boiling causes alot of turbulence and heat transfer.You are right about the block being most effecient with inlet over the cpu.Hollow blocks perform very well if your motherboard is laying flat.

By the way where is this article you are talking about?I don't remember anything like that, but I do remember an article on overclockers about a guy that made a system using a maze1, a dehumidifier compressor and condenser in a speaker box and waterline hose. :rolleyes:
External green fur was the name I believe.
 
Is it ok if i make a copy of the WB Maze1???? Is it wrong because the block has 2 holes one for the liquid to enter and one for the liquid to exit? Because i saw a few phase change blocks and they have only 1 hole. Do i need to drill into the cooper tubing and lead the capilary tube to the inlet of the WB and the big tube to the outlet hole??? Has anyone the exact demensiones of the block???? Can i use that block on a AMD T-bird1200???

Thanx
 
well you might be able to get away with it however I would make sure you braze it together, people that have one hole in there block are running the capillary line inside the low pressure line to get a sort of subcooling effect, you dont HAVE to do this but every little bit counts, you can also wrap the cap around the line and get the same effect if you want to use 2 holes. I donno if I would copy the block exactly because it would benefit you alot if you have the inlet hole right over the cpu, some of the spiral designs are quite good sense they have lots of surface area as well.
 
I will modify the copy. i will make the cap tube go right into the center of the block and the cooper tube would be lead to a corner of the block. Thanx for the TIP.
 
Last edited:
Well first question, is your motherboard going to be laying flat or mounted in a case?Oh and the maze 1 wouldn't be a good block to use.
 
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